Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

I've been reading threads for the past 3 hours and I am unable to find the exact information that I need. So.....here's the deal:

1) 66 Chevy C-10 with a 283 rebuilt by a nice old gentleman.
2) He traded the stock carb (he thinks it was a Quadrajet) for a rebuilt Holley 4 bbl (he thinks it was 650 cfm). I'm pretty sure he used the original intake with adapter for Holley. Carb has electric choke now, but was originally manual (knob on dash).
3) Having trouble starting in AM, as well as re-starting after sitting for 30-60 minutes. Also, cuts out and misses when accelerator depressed......driveable, but annoying.
4) Points, plugs, fuel filter all good.
5) The nice old gentleman told me when I bought it that it needed a smaller carburetor so that it wouldn't miss/surge.

Here's my question(s):

1) Did the 283 come with a 4-bbl or 2-bbl?
2) I haven't closely inspected the carb/intake, but.....is it possible that this puppy was originally fitted with a 2-bbl and that the adapter converted it for 4-bbl usage? Or is that a stupid question?
3) I don't want to buy a new intake, but I think it needs a different carb. I don't mind going with a 2-bbl, if that's what it had originally.
4) If 4-bbl, my reading has led me to lean towards original Quadrajet or Edelbrock 1405 (I want to go back to the manual choke). I also want better gas mileage.....not really into high-performance or hot-rodding. Any opinions would be appreciated.


Thanks in advance for your help.

Randy

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

I don't know much, but I'll tell you what I think. ;)

When I first got my '64 it had points. It was a bear to start, and when I installed HEI, it would start like a dream. Well, if it sat for a few months, I'd have to hit it with a little bit of starter fluid, but it really changed the runability for the better. So... I'd suggest you convert to HEI pronto.

As for if the 283 came with a 4bbl, yes they did but I don't know if the trucks came with a 4bbl. I have a 2bbl Rochester on my truck's 283 right now and it runs pretty good (not strong). I'll be ditching my 2bbl in a couple of months when we swap in the 383, if you're interested. :)

Anyway, that's what I think. I know even less.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

I am currently running a Q-jet and I love it. Went from 9 MPG with a Holley 650 4bbl to 13 MPG. It does have the 'surge' or 'sputter' from idle cause it is 'over carbed' but it only requires a jet and rod change, which I am doing this next weekend. Q-jets are divorced or elec. choke but I did hook mine up to a manual cable and after some trial and error and tweaking it works great.
HEI is a must in my opinion.
If you can get the numbers off the front pad(in front of left head) you can probably find out what it came with originally.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

I’m not an expert, but I believe the 4 barrel carb offered on a stock 283 Chevy truck in 66 was a Rochester 4GC. It had a smaller square bore pattern compared to the Quadrajet. I’m pretty sure at that time the Quadrajet was reserved for 327 and larger engines.

The 283 was indeed offered as both 2 barrel and 4 barrel models. As stupid as the concept of mounting a 4 barrel on a 2 barrel manifold sounds, your question isn’t. There were adapters produced to mount 4 barrel carbs on 2 barrel manifolds but for obvious reasons were never very popular. Your manifold is most likely a four barrel version with an adapter to fit the larger carb flange pattern. I’m running a 1405 and very happy with it, but you’ll need to lean out the jets and rods to get best mileage out of it. I’ve developed calculation tables on what worked best for me. If you have interest shoot me a PM and I’ll send you a copy.

If the Holley is a 650, it probably just needs a good tune and jet adjustments to optimize. I wouldn’t necessarily get rid of it just because it’s “too big”. A 650 will work fine on a 283 if set up correctly. You can also convert it to manual choke with a Holley kit if that is preferred:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/45-...FSCjiQodkXSuPQ

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Take some pics of the motor so we can help figure out what you have. Cutting out and missing is not always the carb. Could be your timing.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

A 64 with 283 and 4bbl would not have been a Q-Jet. It would likely have been either an older Rochester design, the 4GC, or possibly a Carter, either AFB or WCFB.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Actually, it's a 66.

I think the gentleman that rebuilt the truck is mistaken about the Quadrajet also. If a 4bbl, it was most likely the 4GC.

MikeN ---- love that seafoam !!!!

Thanks everyone for your help.....keep it coming !!!

3 more questions:

1) Where do I look on the engine for the codes mentioned above?
2) Would I get better mileage with a 2bbl and is it worth swapping the intake, or should I just leave it 4bbl?
3) What's the easiest way to tell if my manifold is 2 or 4 intake without taking off the carb? (rookie question)

Re: HEI ........ I don't really have a problem with points.....I've changed and adjusted many over the years. I would like everything to look stock under the hood, so I've thought about converting the points to electronic using my original distributor and a Petronix kit....just for reliability and so I don't have to monkey with the points anymore. Any opinions?

Thanks,

Randy

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Maybe......you selling the intake also?

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

I have 65 fully loaded C10 with 283 the stock carb was a 2 bbl.

Set up correctly I don't think you notice much difference in mileage between a 2 bbl or 4 bbl. Unless you have your foot in it all the time....

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Theoretically, if the back barrels on the 4 throat remain closed, a 2 or 4 barrel carb should produce the same mileage. In reality, it is generally easier to get better mileage out of a modern 4 barrel, because parts are readily available to optimize lean jetting. With most 2 barrels all you can do is rebuild them, and then get what you get for mileage.

If you’re unfamiliar with the differences between intakes, the easiest way to determine if you have a 2 or 4 barrel manifold is to post a picture. Anybody that knows the difference can easily identify which you have.

If you want to retain the original appearance of the engine/distributor I’d highly recommend the Pertronix kit. I’ve run HEI and Petronix and found both completely reliable. I currently run HEI in my 1960 because it was about all that was available in factory electronic ignition 20 years ago. For cosmetics I’d prefer to have a points distributor with the kit installed. The trade off being, you need to mount a separate coil either on the intake or the firewall. I also have decades of experience setting points, and will never have a car with them again. They are just too much trouble for no benefit.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

So.....based on that, you would recommend staying with the 4bbl?

So, I'll get the Pertronix kit, and if my problems persist, I'll change out the carb. Should I find a 4GC, or go with Edelbrock? Can I keep my stock intake with the Edelbrock?

Oh......are you saying that I would need a new coil with the Pertronix?

Thanks,

Randy

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

If you’re relatively new to the old car/truck hobby, save yourself a lot of grief by delaying the purchase of new parts until you have a chance to learn more about the combination you already have. An analysis of the engine isn’t all that difficult, and may help focus on what really needs attention. Check all the easy stuff first – spark plugs and the plug wires, distributor cap and rotor for carbon tracking or corrosion, fuel and air filters, change the oil and filter, to narrow the options of what may be wrong. The problems you describe could result from anything between bad gas, a vacuum leak, accelerator pump not hooked up correctly, or a dead vacuum advance canister - not necessarily the carburetor.

An inexpensive vacuum gauge will tell you a lot about what is going on. Simply hook one up to a full manifold vacuum source, and observe the gauge when the engine idles, and is accelerated, etc. A Google search for “how to read a vacuum gauge” will provide many explanations of what the indications mean. You could easily have a vacuum leak at the base of the carburetor, or below the adapter, there could be an open port on the carburetor, etc. A timing light can identify whether the vacuum advance in the distributor is working.

When it comes to buying parts, if the truck is going to be a pure stock restoration, I would want to go with original carburetion, on the stock cast iron manifold. Bear in mind any 4GC carburetor is going to be 40+ years old, possibly rebuilt numerous times. Wear on the casting or the throttle shafts can cause leakage, even after an overhaul unless they have had bushings installed. An expensive rebuild isn’t a guarantee of perfect operation. And like the 2 barrel, parts to modify (lean out) the internal operation are not readily available.

If the truck is going to be driven regularly, I prefer the Edelbrock AFB because they are so easy to adjust, and jets and rods are readily available. The rods can be changed by simply loosening two screws and lifting them out of the jets. Jet changes are almost as easy, by removing the upper part of the carb and removing them with a screwdriver. The 1405 can be mounted on a stock cast iron 4 barrel intake, but it will require an adapter, since the holes in the manifold are smaller than the ports in the carb base. Replacing the manifold with an Edelbrock Performer would provide better results if the budget allows.

Note – the 1405 comes from the factory with richer jetting for performance applications than the automatic choke model (1406). In order to maximize mileage, the combination will need to be changed. I believe the 1405 comes with .100 main jets and .070/.047 rods. The 1406 comes with .098 main jets and .075/.047 rods. Changing to at least the 1406 specs will improve mileage. After that it’s time to begin experimenting. If you choose to go this way, take some time and research the carb to see if this is something you’ll be comfortable learning to do.

Holley makes fine carburetors that are very popular, and have some performance characteristics that many prefer. They can also be adjusted for lean operation by changing jets, but it is a bit more complicated for a novice. Unless there is something really wrong with the Holley you have, I would try adjusting (or perhaps rebuilding) it before considering a replacement. Unless the setup is fine tuned to the application, a brand new anything may not perform better than what you have.

Your stock coil will work fine with a Pertronix kit, my comment only applied to the difference between HEI and a points distributor. With HEI the coil is in the cap, with points (or Pertronix) the coil is external.

Any other questions, ask away!

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Edlebrocks and Holley's mount up different. If you currently have a Holley and its a direct mount up to your intake then you'll need an adpter (any parts store will have them) and if the Holley is using an adpter you can just chuck it. If you can find a small Q-jet a lot guys are fond of them, they tend to run smaller primary's and get better mileage if you behave yourself ;-)

I don't know about the Pertronix, I went with a Accel pointless distributor and I am pretty sure I started out with the stock coil.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

40 year old trucks, different owners, parts changing can sometimes add strange combinations . I may be under a misconception but I thought I found a 327 dizzy to look the same as 283 dizzy, but 327 has a larger lobe, truck runs, but not well. Another 2 cents.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Okay boys, I'm back with the photos. Since I'm new to this forum and probably don't have much photo bandwidth, I posted my photos on MY WEBSITE. After looking at photos, can you tell if I have a 2 or 4 bbl intake?

I made some photos of the engine compartment early in the day (it had just rained, which is why you will see water on the cowl, etc). I wiped the engine down and then drove about 50 miles and shot some more photos. In the 2nd set of photos, you will see oil pooled on the engine, especially on the intake manifold. The oil had sprayed onto the inside of the hood, and when I opened it, it dripped onto the top of the air cleaner. There was also oil on the underneath side of the air cleaner. One photo shows where I saw some pooled oil and air bubbles were coming from around 2 bolts (with the engine running).

Oh.......and I found an unexpected surprise: I'm no expert, but it sure looks like an HEI distributor to me. So.....the plot thickens.

I know zilch about HEI systems......do they need adjustment? do they go bad? etc?

With all the oil leaking, I was wondering if my sputtering could be caused by the fact that the old guy had just rebuilt the engine when I bought it, and now that I am breaking it in, some of the bolts may need to be re-torqued. Just a theory.

So..............see if this makes sense:

1) check engine with vacuum gauge
2) pull all plugs and check gap and check for possible fouling.
3) check ignition spark with my test light
4) adjust HEI ??????
5) change in-line fuel filter
6) adjust or change carburetor
7) re-torque bolts on heads and intake?????
8) or do I need new gaskets????

Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Randy

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

You have a 4 barrel manifold. If it was a 2 barrel, the adapter under the carburetor would look like this with the small part bolted to the engine:

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/5...gasket1933.jpg

It looks like you’re going to need to remove the intake manifold and install a new set of gaskets. It appears the rubber end seals were used, and ruptured during the procedure (a chunk is sticking out).

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/4605/manifold.jpg

It then appears it was attempted to seal the leak by smearing silicone on the outside which is never going to work.

The manifold probably needs to come off, clean everything up, and install a new set of gaskets. It is generally recommended to discard both the rubber and cork end seals, and apply a bead of silicone sealer across both the front and rear block rails instead. To verifty this is the problem, run the engine with the hood open and determine if this is the source of all the oil leakage.

The poorly sealed manifold is probably causing both the oil leaks, and the erratic engine performance due to vacuum leaks.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Randy before you go any further, you have a four brrl intake with a holley 600 4160 carb, HEI dizzy, but you have a terrible intake manifold leak all the way around, you`ll needto pull the entire manifold, clean the surfaces well, with new gaskets, a light coating of silicone on the intake bolt threads to seal everythng up.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

One more potential problem. The red wire running to your electric choke coming through the firewall could short out if the insulation becomes damaged. Need to protect it with a grommet.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

How are you guys sure it is a four barrel manifold? I only see one picture and it doesn't show the carb or base plate...

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

http://www.beecham.net/Truck/Engine/IMG_3218.jpg

This pic here you can see the bolt boss in the manifold but its an early manifold for the 4GC carb, smaller bolt patern.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

You are correct....

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

i believe you also have the 305 heads on this going by the casting marks on the ends you`ll see a small double bar or H so to speak in the middle of the end of the head at the bottom...Early intake manfold denoted by the by the oil filler tube, you`ll need to put a valve cover breather vent on the left side valve cover for the PCV valve to work on the right side valve cover...

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

I was judging based on this photo:

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/3568/manifold02.jpg

If it were a two barrel manifold the adapter would be a different style.

The plug wires on the drivers side also need attention, especially where they appear to be resting against the exhaust manifold. A few ties wraps can also avoid problems interfering with the throttle and shift linkage.

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/3060/wires.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

You guys are amazing !!!!!!!!!!!

Rich,
Yikes !!!!! I have no idea about such things. So, the 305 heads are okay, but I need to add a valve cover breather? Can you elaborate or refer me to a link? Also, how can you tell that's a 600 Holley?

Geezer,
Thanks for the help. I'm going to change the carb to a manual choke after I fix the intake gasket, so that little red wire is history.

Mark,
You da man. After inspecting the engine today, and with the engine running, I pretty much felt that the gasket needed replacing. But the old guy who rebuilt it........well, I thought he knew what he was doing. I hope there's not other major problems lurking.

Additional questions:

1) Which manual choke carb should I put on it? 4GC? Quad? Edelbrock?
Keep in mind that I want the easiest replacement, i.e. compatibility with my intake manifold......and the most reliable with ease of maintenance. OEM is no longer a concern. :lol:
2) If you think I need a new intake, tell me......I don't want to have to re-do this thing later.
3) re: HEI ...... do I need to do anything with this, i.e. adjusting, checking for wear, etc? I know about points and condensers.....HEI is greek.
4) Gas tank --- the old guy pulled the tank, broke up the rust with a chain inside, and then used a tank sealer. But he only used one gallon and 2 are recommended for a 20 gallon tank. Am I probably ok here, or should I spend the $200 and put a new one in while I'm in the mood to fix everything?

(Oh......apologies to all you "old guys" out there. I'm an old guy, too......but the guy who rebuilt this was a little older than me......and I don't want to mention his name in case he's a member of this forum.)

Thanks SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much, guys !!!!!

Randy

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

If it were mine, I wouldn't replace the carb. It would be a lot cheaper to simply add a manual choke kit, which is a simple bolt on:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/45-...FSCjiQodkXSuPQ

What you have is known to fit, and probably works fine, but you won't be able to tell until the manifold leaks are fixed. Unless you're after performance potential I'd stick with the stock cast iron manifold. One nice feature is they almost never warp, which is a risk with used aluminum manifolds.

As for the HEI, in order to have a baseline it would be a good idea to replace the cap and rotor, or at least inspect the contacts for pitting or corrosion. There really isn't any maintenance required unless the area of the centrifugal weights gets really cruddy. You might also want to check the condition of the vacuum advance. It can be tested easily with a timing light. Disconnect the vacuum line to it and plug the line. Idle the engine and check the timing. Connect a hose from a full vacuum manifold vacuum source (or a vacuum pump). If the vacuum advance is working, the timing will advance.

The money I didn't spend on a carburetor or manifold, I'd invest in a new gas tank. If the repair wasn't done any better than the manifold, the tank could be in worse shape than if it hadn't been "fixed" in the first place. Debris in the gas tank can lead to endless problems that can be hard to diagnose. If you do replace the tank, replace the filter again in case anything was disturbed during the exchange.

I'm an old guy, and have observed that competency isn't age related. I've met guys much older than me, and others half my age that know more than I'll ever learn.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Thanks for the link.

My son-in-law is pushing me towards Edelbrock.....and you have stated previously that they are easier to maintain and rebuild, especially for a rook. And I can sell the Holley to offset the new purchase. By performance, I assume that you mean acceleration, etc. I'm not interested in racing, but it's nice to get up and go occasionally. But not at the expense of mpg. I'll probably keep the original manifold.....but just for yucks, would I realize $200 worth of difference with a NEW Edelbrock manifold to go with my NEW Edelbrock 1405? ;)

Looks like a timing light and vaccum gauge are in my future. Wish I had kept my Penske stuff from years ago.

Rookie question: is the HEI cap and rotor one-size-fits-all, or do I need to get a part number from the existing dizzy?

Yeah.....I was afraid of that.

By all means.........I just didn't want to offend anyone by continuing to call the previous owner "the old guy".

Thanks,

Randy

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

You know what they say. Old guys rule!!! Or is that old guys drool. Anywho.
Keep the intake. You might see 10 hp diffy with a new one. Edelbrock 500cfm carb would be good. Change a couple more things. Get rid of the hose for the fuel line. Fire hazard potential. New spark plug wires. You can get a new HEI from Skip White instead of rebuilding yours. Probably cheaper too.
Throttle return spring needs attention. Hooked on where it is is not good. Put it in the hole on the arm. I always run 2 springs. 1 strong and 1 lighter. In case the strong one breaks. Some of the smaller lighter ones will fit inside the bigger stronger one too.
Have fun. Take some more pics as you progress and keep asking those questions. We're happy to help out if we can.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

The only real advantage in replacing the manifold is it will look new, match the appearance of the carburetor, and eliminate the need to clean the old one. The limiting factor in performance will remain the heads, valves, camshaft and exhaust. If it makes you feel better or happy installing a new manifold, go for it. I’ve certainly bought new stuff just because I wanted it.

If you’re going with the Edelbrock you might be happier with the 1404 (500 cfm model) instead of the 1405 (600 cfm), unless you intend to replace the engine with a 350 someday.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/...0002/-1?CT=999
http://www.jegs.com/pdfs/350carbchart.pdf

Edelbrock recommends the 500 cfm size for engines between 225 and 327 cubic inches. They recommend the 600 version for engines between 302 – 400+. A smaller carb will provide an increased signal improving part throttle driveability.

The distributor cap is common to a bunch of applications from 1974 -1987. Just ask for a cap for a 1975-86 Chevy C10. Here’s a cross reference listing from O’Reilly auto parts to show how many places this was used. Just click on the compatibility tab in the middle.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0413&ppt=C0334

On the subject of the valve cover breathers - when the 283 was first released it didn’t have a smog valve. For crankcase ventilation it used a breather cap on the oil fill tube, and a road draft tube on the back of the block behind the intake manifold. In theory, driving the vehicle over 25 miles per hour would create a “draft” or negative pressure over the bottom of the tube caused by air movement across the opening. Crankcase fumes were drawn out the bottom of the tube, and replaced by fresh air entering the breather cap. It was a less than efficient design being open to the atmosphere, and if the vehicle never went fast enough to create a draft (like a milk delivery truck), tremendous sludge would build up inside the engine.

Factory PCV setups don’t have a breather open to the atmosphere, air is normally provided through hoses or ducting connected to the air cleaner. In a non stock application you ideally want the PCV valve on one side or one end of the engine, and the fresh air source on the other side or end to maximize ventilation. Although not as optimum as having a breather on the opposite valve cover, your engine should be adequately ventilated the way it is set up with the fresh air in the front through the oil fill breather cap. Just don’t replace the breather with a sealed cap. What doesn’t work well is using an oil fill tube with the smog valve screwed into the tube, mounting a breather cap on top. This will have almost no effect on evacuating the crankcase, since fresh air will be drawn through the PCV valve straight from the breather cap instead.

Your valve cover may also be a potential source of oil leakage where the smog valve was installed. 283 covers were never designed to have an opening. Early models used an adapter that replaced the road draft tube, adding a stub for a hose which connected to an inline PCV valve. Either the early adapter or later model valve covers designed for a smog grommet would provide more leak free service.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Geezer....thanks for the comments.

I rarely drool anymore......mostly when I sleep. ;)

500 cfm, eh? Sounds good. That would be a #1404.....I can get a rebuilt one directly from Edelbrock for $315, and maybe cheaper elsewhere.

I had already decided that I needed new spark plug wires....some of them look a little melted. I'm not sure if "T.O.G." bought the HEI new or used. I have all of his receipts somewhere and I can look it up.

Fuel hose? You mean the one from the fuel filter to the carb? What should I replace it with?

Throttle return spring: it's not supposed to hook on to that little flange on the oil filling spout? Or are you referring to the proximal attachement on the carb?

Thanks,

Randy

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Hey young fella. LOL!!!
Throttle return spring hooked on the carb linkage is iffy.
Fuel hose. Hard line. 5/16th tube. Napa has them pre-built in many lengths.
Edelbrock carb. 1404 sounds right. Try ebay or Summit Racing or Jeg's. Cheaper by about 80 bucks.
Have you ever pulled the top off an engine before? If not we're here to walk you through it. Glad to help.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Hell no, but how hard can it be???? I've got a monkey wrench, a cooler of beer, and lots of band-aids. :lol:

Actually, I'm going to need all the help I can get. And my son-in-law will be there......he's done it, but only on a FORD!!!!!!! :sumo:

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Good. That means he will be used to troubleshooting just incase there's a problem.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Boy an`t that the truth.....LOL

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Thats why we do this....

[IMG]http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/IMG_0592.jpg[/IMG]

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Randy. Don't forget to take pics. Not for us but references for you when you go to put it back together. Pics work better than the old memory does. Pick up a book on How to rebuild your small block chevy. That'll help alot. Don't cut costs on intake gaskets. Buy good stuff. Fel-Pro is a good one to use. Happy wrenchin'.

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Mark,

So what do you recommend for me to do to maximize ventilation, minimize oil leakage, and be easy to accomplish? Please provide links if you have them.

Thanks,

Randy

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Hi Randy if originality isn’t important, the simplest thing would be to add a later model valve cover designed to have smog/breather grommets. Any pre-1987 305/350 cover(s) would work. Just replace the damaged cover with one designed for a smog valve. The existing oil fill breather tube will provide incoming air. If you add later valve covers and want additional ventilation simply install a breather on the other valve cover as well. I’d keep the oil fill tube regardless, because it’s generally easier to add oil to the engine through the tube rather than the valve cover. Stock painted cover(s) from the junkyard will do, or there are numerous inexpensive chrome versions available. Here’s a current example on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...Q5fAccessories

If you look closely you can see the rims or flanges formed in the covers for the breather or smog grommet (which your 283 cover lacks)

Here’s an example of a push in breather:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3400/

The cover you have “may” work, but it just has a hole cut in a piece of thin sheet metal to retain the grommet, and it may or may not seal well, and it may eventually cut the lower portion of the grommet off and drop it in the rocker arm area. If it doesn’t leak, the arrangement you have will work fine – air will enter through the breather cap on the oil fill tube and be drawn out through the smog valve. This is the arrangement I have on my engine although the smog connection is hidden on mine. Since appearance was important in my application, and my engine is a 350 (lacking the hole in the block for the road draft tube) here’s a link showing what I did:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366853

The other option, if an original appearance is important – obtain a mid 60’s Chevy smog adapter. Post #7 on the attached link shows this adapter. It simply replaces the road draft tube, and even uses the original bolt and washer. An inline PCV valve connects to the hose barb, and the other end connects to the intake manifold or base of the carburetor.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/draf...cv-151613.html

I don’t believe this piece is being reproduced, so the only option is to source an original. This arrangement performs similar to what I’m running - air enters through the oil fill tube breather, and is evacuated at the back of the engine block behind the intake manifold instead of the valve cover. This will allow the use of early 283 or 327 sealed valve covers should that be preferred.

I’ve taken the liberty of borrowing a recent photo from Tony Smith showing the adapter installed:

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/5492/smogadapter.jpg

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

If you can't find an original or repro adaptor for the back of the block, look for a grommet that fits the hole. Then stick a nipple in the grommet and hook your hose to that. You could also put a PCV valve directly into the grommet.

Another way is to get a freeze plug that fits the hole. Then braze a nipple or pipe bushing into the freeze plug and drive it into the block. I have used all of these fixes on different projects over the years, depending on what I could find or had lying around the garage.

Ray

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Do we know yet if it is an early block....? Randy under your alternator on the block is a pad that wil have a series of numbers letters, see if you can ead these, that will give a better clue as to what we are dealing with..

Re: Carburetor question for 66 C-10 with 283
 

Mark,

Thanks for an awesome post and explanation. I've spent the better part of the day researching the links and topics that you've discussed. I think I've got a good understanding of breathers, pcv's, etc., now.

I looked under my hood today to see if I could find the breather hole at the rear of the block, but I couldn't see it. I looked from all angles, including crawling underneath, but couldn't visualize the area. Prior to that, I had hoped to find an adapter and mount the in-line pcv valve for ventilation, using the oil filler cap as the air intake. Then I was going to buy a replacement right valve cover WITHOUT a hole drilled in it, thus returning my engine to a more vintage look. BUT......since I can't even SEE the hole, I figure I wouldn't be able to mount the adapter anyway. So I'm going to just leave the ventilation as it is. I DID find a source for the adapter HERE (I think). I'm sure other sites carry them as well.

So.....here's my current plan. See if it sounds good to you and if I'm missing anything.

1) Remove carb and intake manifold, clean it, and put a new gasket and silicone sealer under it.
2) Consider replacing stock intake with Edelbrock intake manifold. It might look cool to have a matching carb and intake, and oil filler as well.
3) Replace my carb with an Edelbrock 4-bbl (#1404) with manual choke. (Will sell the old Holley carb and adapter).
4) If I keep my stock intake, I'll need an adapter for the Edelbrock.
5) Check and replace as necessary:
a) Distributor cap and rotor....maybe a BLUE one.
b) Spark plugs: AC Delco R45TS
c) Spark plug wires: BLUE.....or maybe RED.

BUT.....before I do all of that, I'm going to replace my gas tank, cover, and fuel filter. (BTW.....do I need to remove the seat in order to remove the gas tank?)

So.....whaddya think? Any opinions or advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Randy