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'67 5.3L Build Thread
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Just thought I'd put up a build thread of my project. Hopefully it will be helpful to others, just as many on this forum have been for me. This isn't my first engine swap, but it is my first classic truck. I have been wanting a '67-'68 C-10 nearly all of my life, so I finally took the plunge, sold my 2008 2500HD Duramax and bought it. It is sooooo nice not having a $600/mo payment any more.
Anyway, this is what I started with... |
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Soon after I bought it I tore the front end off, sanded down the frame, and painted it semi-gloss black.
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I went with the ECE engine mounts and trans cross-member. This is how the mounts look in the frame.
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This is the motor I am going with. It is a 2008 5.3L with a 4L60E trans out of a Silverado. Looks pretty clean.
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Thought some of you guys might like to see how the motor sits in the frame with the ECE mounts. I couldn't be happier. It looks like it was meant to go there. The trans cross member just bolted up in the factory location as well. This is where I am now, so I will post more when I make some progress.
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Wow, nice truck! I'll definitely be watching this. What are you doing for a fuel tank?
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Nice. On the blazer forum, a member does a nice frame mod to clear the a/c lines.
Looking forward to your progress! |
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Looks great. Im doing the same thing with a '99 5.3.
What headers are you going to use? Are you going to use Air Cond? Are you going to have your ECM reflashed so you can get around the VATS? |
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I am going to put in AC, but not the factory system. I think that I am going to go with the Old Air system. I am going with Speartech for the wiring harness rework and ECM. It's a little pricey, but Shifty said that he was to do it over again he would just go with Speartech and save a lot of frustration. I read Shifty's build thread very thoroughly and learned a lot about the swap. THANKS SHIFTY IF YOU ARE OUT THERE!!! |
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I bought the Doug Thorley headers made just for this swap. They are $495 shipped. Good deal for such a nice header. I'll take pics when they arrive.
Do you have a part number for these? |
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Nice ride!
But, I sure hope you don't have to get at the A/C pump for a L-O-N-G while!:censored: |
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Nice truck and great score on the 5.3. It has the 243 heads I see......those are the same heads as came on my LS2...and what also came on the LS6.
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Okay first off very nice truck and engine swap you have going on.
But I have to ask everyone that has done this swap, it seems like an expensive swap with headers, motor mounts and ECM reprogrammed and what not. The benefits seems to pay off once all the headaches and expensives are addressed. As folks are saying they have better fuel mileage and driveabilities is increased as well. |
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you'd probably spend about as much money adding EFI to a sbc... as you would getting one transplanted and running in an older truck.
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This looks like a sweet addition to a sweet truck! I'll be watching ... thanks for the ride along!
Someone asked about the cost involved and the benefits derived. Right now Smeding Performance in Tejas has an intro deal on a 383 crate motors with efi for 5 large. The efi setup is Accel ... they are running this deal until the first 50 are gone ... it is a pretty good price for what you get. They are claiming about 22 mpg. Barry I have one in the works |
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Clean..in everyway
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Beautiful truck that engine sits really nice Im also in the process of painting my frame good times...
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:bo2: Nice project. Thanks for sharing.
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Cool. Keep the pics coming.
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What up Bub, Nice progress on ur C10, Good you got the TH324Y-C Headers
I use the MSD Ignition 8.5 Super Conductor 32829 and also a Lokar ED-5008 Flex Braided Stainless/Alum. oil dip stick both part #s work good with the headers. I'll be waiting on your New gas tank pics. :ito: |
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Glad you found me. Thanks again for the info at the Truck Shop. I'll take any advise I can get. I'll have to check out those wires. |
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Here are the pics of the headers installed during the test fit. They fit SWEET!
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Anyone have any input on how to run the trans cooler lines to the stock radiator. I am planning to cut off the fittings at the radiator and the trans, flare the ends of both and hose clamp some trans cooler rubber hoses in between. The only problem is, the lines are 3/8" at the trans and 5/16" at the radiator. If anyone has a better idea I'm all ears.
The pic is of the flared lines at the radiator. |
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I would try to get fittings to make the radiator 3/8" barbs as well, or adapt the trans to the smaller, but I think the larger lines are better. You should consider a seperate trans cooler as well. (if you arent already doing this) I used inverted flare AN adapters on my truck and ran 6AN (3/8") braided lines to handle the pressure and make them easy to remove for service.
Edit: Beautiful truck and awesome job on the swap! |
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Try these and these. The adapter was from NAPA for the tranny lines to radiator, the wires from AutoZone, ordered for me.
Good luck. http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/a...m/IMG_0594.jpg http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/a...m/IMG_0537.jpg |
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Cool swap, great pictures!
Use a 3/8" pipe to AN-6 adapters at radiator cooler and 5/16" pipe to AN-6 adapters at the trans. Run AN-6 soft lines (appropriate for trans use) to the frame rail, and then AN-6 hardlines along the frame rail. If you're not familiar with AN - AN just means 1/16" inch, i.e. AN-6 = 6/16" = 3/8" Here's a little demo on how to make pipe-to-AN connections if you haven't done it before. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...5&postcount=28 Just a thought :) |
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None of that stuff is particularly expensive, including the 3/8 hardline which can be brake line purchased from NAPA or something. The fittings are a couple of bucks each.
The all-rubber lines will work, but don't think they'll work for very long. You can't use just fuel tubing for trans lines. |
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The "AN" stands for Air Force / Navy, its a military spec for how they joined flexable hose to a ridgid tube. The the dash sizes in increments of 1/16" are an NFPA and ISO standard that is used on many types of adapter styles such as JIC, JIS, BSPP, O-Ring Boss, ect... This will help when you try dealing with a true hydraulic shop to get what you are needing. Just FYI not trying to ruffle feathers.
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Actually, it's "Army/Navy" :) Goes back to WW II (no Air Force) when aircraft were being built by so many diffferent companies that a better standard was needed to reduce maintenence overhead. It's not just about flexible to ridgid, it's all kinds of lines, adapters, etc.
I use them for just about everything any more as the fittings and braided lines have become relatively inexpensive. Back when all this stuff was military specification ("MILSPEC") it was outrageously expensive - I have a couple of leftover AN-18 45 degree fittings for my airplane that were like $80 each. But now there are alternate brands to Aeroquip like Russel and others that aren't aircraft-ready but are just fine for automotive use...and so they're way cheaper. I just offered it as a thought; running long rubber lines can be problematic and using cheap hard lines (not stainless) can end up costing less and being a far-better long-term solution even if it does cost a bit more :) |
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I think I'll try what you all are suggesting, but the only thing I can't figure out is how to go from AN tube nut to AN hose. There doesn't seem to be a -6 male AN to AN hose fitting. Probably a stupid question, but I can't find it at Summit.
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Usually you have a Male fitting that goes on the end of your hose, that fitting then screws into the nut/sleeve after you have flared the line. I used a lot of the 3/8" aluminum tubing for my fuel system (F/I), you can also get male to male unions if you are using female fittings on your hose.
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900311/ This type of connection is typically done with a union or a bulkhead union to two female connections. http://static.summitracing.com/globa...06_group_w.jpg http://static.summitracing.com/globa...-fbm2072_w.jpg Remember that we need to support any transition from hard to soft lines - they can't just hang in space or the line will work-harden from vibration and crack. |
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I researched all of the parts needed to hook up the trans cooler lines as described above. The total comes out to $107 plus shipping for all of the parts and the 37 deg flare tool. I'm still weighing it out, if I want to spend the money or use my idea for now and plan on replacing it in the future. If anyone wants to do it here is the Summit parts list:
P# Qty needed EAR-581806ERL 1 EAR-581906ERL 1 FRA-481506 2 SUM-220690 4 SUM-230606 1 EAR-991907ERL 2 EAR-581905ERL 1 EAR-581805ERL 1 These parts are what I have found to be needed to hook up 4L60E cooler lines to the factory radiator. |
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Just a suggestion but why not just install a cooler on the frame rail close to the trans? It would be about the same money and look sweet!
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