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-   -   '67 5.3L Build Thread (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=421326)

67C10BUB 09-14-2010 06:02 AM

'67 5.3L Build Thread
 
3 Attachment(s)
Just thought I'd put up a build thread of my project. Hopefully it will be helpful to others, just as many on this forum have been for me. This isn't my first engine swap, but it is my first classic truck. I have been wanting a '67-'68 C-10 nearly all of my life, so I finally took the plunge, sold my 2008 2500HD Duramax and bought it. It is sooooo nice not having a $600/mo payment any more.

Anyway, this is what I started with...

67C10BUB 09-14-2010 06:03 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
3 Attachment(s)
Soon after I bought it I tore the front end off, sanded down the frame, and painted it semi-gloss black.

67C10BUB 09-14-2010 06:05 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
2 Attachment(s)
I went with the ECE engine mounts and trans cross-member. This is how the mounts look in the frame.

67C10BUB 09-14-2010 06:07 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
1 Attachment(s)
This is the motor I am going with. It is a 2008 5.3L with a 4L60E trans out of a Silverado. Looks pretty clean.

67C10BUB 09-14-2010 06:10 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
5 Attachment(s)
Thought some of you guys might like to see how the motor sits in the frame with the ECE mounts. I couldn't be happier. It looks like it was meant to go there. The trans cross member just bolted up in the factory location as well. This is where I am now, so I will post more when I make some progress.

FL71C10 09-14-2010 06:47 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Wow, nice truck! I'll definitely be watching this. What are you doing for a fuel tank?

chuckmc8 09-14-2010 07:00 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Nice. On the blazer forum, a member does a nice frame mod to clear the a/c lines.
Looking forward to your progress!

6D8_C10 09-14-2010 11:28 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Looks great. Im doing the same thing with a '99 5.3.
What headers are you going to use?
Are you going to use Air Cond?
Are you going to have your ECM reflashed so you can get around the VATS?

67C10BUB 09-14-2010 01:28 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by FL71C10 (Post 4189400)
Wow, nice truck! I'll definitely be watching this. What are you doing for a fuel tank?

I bought an aluminum EFI tank from Boyd welding. It cost $591 shipped to my door because of a group buy right now. Pretty good deal. I'll take pics once it arrives.

67C10BUB 09-14-2010 01:32 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 6D8_C10 (Post 4189632)
Looks great. Im doing the same thing with a '99 5.3.
What headers are you going to use?
Are you going to use Air Cond?
Are you going to have your ECM reflashed so you can get around the VATS?

I bought the Doug Thorley headers made just for this swap. They are $495 shipped. Good deal for such a nice header. I'll take pics when they arrive.
I am going to put in AC, but not the factory system. I think that I am going to go with the Old Air system.
I am going with Speartech for the wiring harness rework and ECM. It's a little pricey, but Shifty said that he was to do it over again he would just go with Speartech and save a lot of frustration. I read Shifty's build thread very thoroughly and learned a lot about the swap. THANKS SHIFTY IF YOU ARE OUT THERE!!!

HavinSomeFun 09-14-2010 02:33 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
I bought the Doug Thorley headers made just for this swap. They are $495 shipped. Good deal for such a nice header. I'll take pics when they arrive.

Do you have a part number for these?

69sixpackbee 09-14-2010 04:10 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Nice ride!
But, I sure hope you don't have to get at the A/C pump for a L-O-N-G while!:censored:

68GMCCustom 09-14-2010 04:30 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Nice truck and great score on the 5.3. It has the 243 heads I see......those are the same heads as came on my LS2...and what also came on the LS6.

C20-67_N_MO 09-14-2010 05:01 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Okay first off very nice truck and engine swap you have going on.

But I have to ask everyone that has done this swap, it seems like an expensive swap with headers, motor mounts and ECM reprogrammed and what not.

The benefits seems to pay off once all the headaches and expensives are addressed.
As folks are saying they have better fuel mileage and driveabilities is increased as well.

68GMCCustom 09-14-2010 05:45 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
you'd probably spend about as much money adding EFI to a sbc... as you would getting one transplanted and running in an older truck.

67C10BUB 09-14-2010 05:48 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by HavinSomeFun (Post 4189897)
I bought the Doug Thorley headers made just for this swap. They are $495 shipped. Good deal for such a nice header. I'll take pics when they arrive.

Do you have a part number for these?

They are P# THY-324Y-C. They say that they will work with the truck spark plug wires in the instructions, but the don't. The front 2 on the passenger side can't even push on the plug. Guess I'll have to see what I can find. I'll post pics of the test install later.

barryvanhook 09-14-2010 06:05 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
This looks like a sweet addition to a sweet truck! I'll be watching ... thanks for the ride along!

Someone asked about the cost involved and the benefits derived. Right now Smeding Performance in Tejas has an intro deal on a 383 crate motors with efi for 5 large. The efi setup is Accel ... they are running this deal until the first 50 are gone ... it is a pretty good price for what you get. They are claiming about 22 mpg.

Barry
I have one in the works

Pop's C-10 09-14-2010 06:09 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Clean..in everyway

WestWardWinds 09-14-2010 06:31 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Beautiful truck that engine sits really nice Im also in the process of painting my frame good times...

GRX 09-14-2010 07:00 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
:bo2: Nice project. Thanks for sharing.

BP68 09-14-2010 11:29 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Cool. Keep the pics coming.

gus 09-15-2010 02:59 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
What up Bub, Nice progress on ur C10, Good you got the TH324Y-C Headers
I use the MSD Ignition 8.5 Super Conductor 32829 and also a Lokar ED-5008 Flex Braided Stainless/Alum. oil dip stick both part #s work good with the headers.

I'll be waiting on your New gas tank pics.

:ito:

67C10BUB 09-15-2010 05:30 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by gus (Post 4192335)
What up Bub, Nice progress on ur C10, Good you got the TH324Y-C Headers
I use the MSD Ignition 8.5 Super Conductor 32829 and also a Lokar ED-5008 Flex Braided Stainless/Alum. oil dip stick both part #s work good with the headers.

I'll be waiting on your New gas tank pics.

:ito:

Gus,
Glad you found me. Thanks again for the info at the Truck Shop. I'll take any advise I can get. I'll have to check out those wires.

67C10BUB 09-15-2010 05:39 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
2 Attachment(s)
Here are the pics of the headers installed during the test fit. They fit SWEET!

67C10BUB 09-15-2010 05:43 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
1 Attachment(s)
Anyone have any input on how to run the trans cooler lines to the stock radiator. I am planning to cut off the fittings at the radiator and the trans, flare the ends of both and hose clamp some trans cooler rubber hoses in between. The only problem is, the lines are 3/8" at the trans and 5/16" at the radiator. If anyone has a better idea I'm all ears.

The pic is of the flared lines at the radiator.

6D8_C10 09-15-2010 09:04 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 67C10BUB (Post 4192371)
Here are the pics of the headers installed during the test fit. They fit SWEET!

Nice headers. What about the plug wires on #1 and #3?

6772owner 09-15-2010 09:28 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
I would try to get fittings to make the radiator 3/8" barbs as well, or adapt the trans to the smaller, but I think the larger lines are better. You should consider a seperate trans cooler as well. (if you arent already doing this) I used inverted flare AN adapters on my truck and ran 6AN (3/8") braided lines to handle the pressure and make them easy to remove for service.

Edit: Beautiful truck and awesome job on the swap!

eagleuh1 09-15-2010 09:47 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Try these and these. The adapter was from NAPA for the tranny lines to radiator, the wires from AutoZone, ordered for me.
Good luck.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/a...m/IMG_0594.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/a...m/IMG_0537.jpg

Ticker 09-15-2010 10:12 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Cool swap, great pictures!

Use a 3/8" pipe to AN-6 adapters at radiator cooler and 5/16" pipe to AN-6 adapters at the trans. Run AN-6 soft lines (appropriate for trans use) to the frame rail, and then AN-6 hardlines along the frame rail.

If you're not familiar with AN - AN just means 1/16" inch, i.e. AN-6 = 6/16" = 3/8"

Here's a little demo on how to make pipe-to-AN connections if you haven't done it before.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...5&postcount=28

Just a thought :)

67C10BUB 09-16-2010 06:29 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ticker (Post 4192560)
Cool swap, great pictures!

Use a 3/8" pipe to AN-6 adapters at radiator cooler and 5/16" pipe to AN-6 adapters at the trans. Run AN-6 soft lines (appropriate for trans use) to the frame rail, and then AN-6 hardlines along the frame rail.

If you're not familiar with AN - AN just means 1/16" inch, i.e. AN-6 = 6/16" = 3/8"

Here's a little demo on how to make pipe-to-AN connections if you haven't done it before.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...5&postcount=28


Just a thought :)

Sounds like it would be nice, but I was trying to go cheap on this one. Do you guys think that my way won't hold the pressure?

Ticker 09-16-2010 09:59 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
None of that stuff is particularly expensive, including the 3/8 hardline which can be brake line purchased from NAPA or something. The fittings are a couple of bucks each.

The all-rubber lines will work, but don't think they'll work for very long. You can't use just fuel tubing for trans lines.

69CST-V 09-16-2010 11:58 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
The "AN" stands for Air Force / Navy, its a military spec for how they joined flexable hose to a ridgid tube. The the dash sizes in increments of 1/16" are an NFPA and ISO standard that is used on many types of adapter styles such as JIC, JIS, BSPP, O-Ring Boss, ect... This will help when you try dealing with a true hydraulic shop to get what you are needing. Just FYI not trying to ruffle feathers.

Ticker 09-16-2010 12:28 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Actually, it's "Army/Navy" :) Goes back to WW II (no Air Force) when aircraft were being built by so many diffferent companies that a better standard was needed to reduce maintenence overhead. It's not just about flexible to ridgid, it's all kinds of lines, adapters, etc.

I use them for just about everything any more as the fittings and braided lines have become relatively inexpensive. Back when all this stuff was military specification ("MILSPEC") it was outrageously expensive - I have a couple of leftover AN-18 45 degree fittings for my airplane that were like $80 each. But now there are alternate brands to Aeroquip like Russel and others that aren't aircraft-ready but are just fine for automotive use...and so they're way cheaper.

I just offered it as a thought; running long rubber lines can be problematic and using cheap hard lines (not stainless) can end up costing less and being a far-better long-term solution even if it does cost a bit more :)

67C10BUB 09-16-2010 02:40 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
I think I'll try what you all are suggesting, but the only thing I can't figure out is how to go from AN tube nut to AN hose. There doesn't seem to be a -6 male AN to AN hose fitting. Probably a stupid question, but I can't find it at Summit.

6772owner 09-16-2010 03:03 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Usually you have a Male fitting that goes on the end of your hose, that fitting then screws into the nut/sleeve after you have flared the line. I used a lot of the 3/8" aluminum tubing for my fuel system (F/I), you can also get male to male unions if you are using female fittings on your hose.

Ticker 09-16-2010 03:25 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 67C10BUB (Post 4194582)
I think I'll try what you all are suggesting, but the only thing I can't figure out is how to go from AN tube nut to AN hose. There doesn't seem to be a -6 male AN to AN hose fitting. Probably a stupid question, but I can't find it at Summit.

It's not a stupid question at all - this stuff is all new :) It takes a while to get used to doing this stuff. In case you missed it in my little posting, you must have an AN flare tool as the angle is 37 degrees and not 45...as long as you're not doing stainless lines you don't need a pricy tool.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900311/

This type of connection is typically done with a union or a bulkhead union to two female connections.

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...06_group_w.jpg

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...-fbm2072_w.jpg

Remember that we need to support any transition from hard to soft lines - they can't just hang in space or the line will work-harden from vibration and crack.

67C10BUB 09-16-2010 05:53 PM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ticker (Post 4194637)
It's not a stupid question at all - this stuff is all new :) It takes a while to get used to doing this stuff. In case you missed it in my little posting, you must have an AN flare tool as the angle is 37 degrees and not 45...as long as you're not doing stainless lines you don't need a pricy tool.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900311/

This type of connection is typically done with a union or a bulkhead union to two female connections.

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...06_group_w.jpg

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...-fbm2072_w.jpg

Remember that we need to support any transition from hard to soft lines - they can't just hang in space or the line will work-harden from vibration and crack.

Very helpful, thanks. I'll have to see what I can come up with from Summit using these parts.

67C10BUB 09-17-2010 05:57 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
I researched all of the parts needed to hook up the trans cooler lines as described above. The total comes out to $107 plus shipping for all of the parts and the 37 deg flare tool. I'm still weighing it out, if I want to spend the money or use my idea for now and plan on replacing it in the future. If anyone wants to do it here is the Summit parts list:
P# Qty needed
EAR-581806ERL 1
EAR-581906ERL 1
FRA-481506 2
SUM-220690 4
SUM-230606 1
EAR-991907ERL 2
EAR-581905ERL 1
EAR-581805ERL 1

These parts are what I have found to be needed to hook up 4L60E cooler lines to the factory radiator.

rob32472 09-17-2010 07:07 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Just a suggestion but why not just install a cooler on the frame rail close to the trans? It would be about the same money and look sweet!

69CST-V 09-17-2010 09:25 AM

Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ticker (Post 4194394)
Actually, it's "Army/Navy" :) Goes back to WW II (no Air Force) when aircraft were being built by so many diffferent companies that a better standard was needed to reduce maintenence overhead. It's not just about flexible to ridgid, it's all kinds of lines, adapters, etc.

I use them for just about everything any more as the fittings and braided lines have become relatively inexpensive. Back when all this stuff was military specification ("MILSPEC") it was outrageously expensive - I have a couple of leftover AN-18 45 degree fittings for my airplane that were like $80 each. But now there are alternate brands to Aeroquip like Russel and others that aren't aircraft-ready but are just fine for automotive use...and so they're way cheaper.

I just offered it as a thought; running long rubber lines can be problematic and using cheap hard lines (not stainless) can end up costing less and being a far-better long-term solution even if it does cost a bit more :)

Ticker you caught me I meant Army on that.


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