LSx Swap cost FAQ
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Now for the worst part of a LSx swap....The money:waah:
If you have a LS swap cost break down or even just a total amount you spent on your LS swap, post up! If you are having problems uploading your file, feel free to PM myself or another Mod. I'll go first. UPDATED 09/10/11 current total is $2685. I also added all the part numbers I can find. You can easily add $100-150 for shop supplies and things I forgot. There are also a few things that you can probably subtract as I included parts needed to convert to auto trans, hydroboost brakes and power steering. |
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Ok, I don't feel tooooo bad considering mine includes the cost of the cam, cam swap related parts, and the labor to do it.
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keep in mind, the price for the cam install includes having to buy new heads, head gaskets, and bolts because my heads on my original motor were discovered to be bad. Also, the miscellaneous includes labor chargers for help I needed to keep things moving. I still have to pay for exhaust and some fine tuning next week. It's sickening looking at the numbers, but maybe this will give someone a real picture of what can go wrong and prepare them for it. There is easily $2500 that could be removed from this if I hadn't swapped cams. :waah: Ok, enough excuses, lol! |
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Harnalien, the only difference in yours and mine is you had engine work, I didnt.
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Ok, do I give you the first build, or the second :)
First: 347 ci motor forged internals, machine work and I assembled it $3,800 in the shortblock Heads and cam were bought from a buddy of mine, they were used to go 10.7x in his 4th gen $600 CTS-V lifters $250 Push rods $150 Head Studs $225 Super Victor intake with spacer and Dominator throttle body $1,100 Misc covers, and accessories I had from other motors Wiring harness (brand new gm unit, I deleted a bunch of wires) $250 Headers $450 Exhaust $150 PCM $75 (2) -8 feed lines, dual walbro fuel pumps, misc t-connectors, aftermarket fuel rails, regulator, 60lb injectors, about $1000 4L80E with aftermarket converter $1,500 HPtuners (I already owned this from doing tuning on the side and have unlimited licensing for 99-02 F-body, so this does not get included). Additional speed density and 4L80E segment swap through HP tuners $100 $9,650.. I am sure I am forgetting a coule things so let's just call it an even $10,000.. Now, for the new motor Sold old shortblock, heads, cam, head studs for $2,750 Retained the Super victor, fuel system, headers, accessories, most covers, lifters, push rods, anything I could. New: Shortblock, again machined and parts, I put it together $5,000 (LS3 block, 4" callies crank, Weisco pistons) AFR 225 heads with light weight intake valves $2,500 New cam $400 Wiring harness extension, LS3 front cover and valley cover, LS2 timing set $300 Upgraded rocker arm trunions $225 Another $6,000 in the new motor Sold the 4L80E bought a build glide total out going expense $1,300 Have changed gears $500 (rear end weling work ect). N20 system $1200 Let's just say there is a lot of money tied up in my old truck. All to hopefully go 10.70-80 on motor and deep 9's on the bottle. |
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Here is my list.
It also includes all the drivetrain/suspension stuff that I will be purcahsing as well. Attachment 772337 |
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Anything marked with an "*" is a part I purchased used
*6.0 and 4L65 $2300 Clay Smith Cam, lifters, springs, pushrods $700 *LS1 intake and TB $80 Pro Products Fuel rails $100 Walbro Fuel pump and Pro Products reg. $300 Fuel Lines and fittings $250 *Pacesetter F-Body Headers $200 Exhaust with Dynomax Bullets and Xpipe $400 *Howe Power Steering pump/pulley/bracket/res/lines/hydroboost $680 Belt $30 ARP head, rod, and balancer bolts $210 Roller Rockers $200 Double Roller Timing $200 Head Gaskets $60 *LS3 injectors $60 Afco Radiator $320 Spectre Air Filter/Silicone elbows $45 *Spal Fans $150 Ebay Fan controller $50 Howell Tuned Computer $300 *Abaer Valve covers $300 Oil Pressure Sender adapter $15 Fluids $140 Driveshaft $190 Shift Linkage $45 Throttle Cable $40 *CFR Trans cooler/Lines $250 Radiator hoses $40 NGK plugs and stock wires $40 180* Thermostat $15 *Autometer Electric Speedo $90 Summit Deep Trans pan $170 Harness - 1,000,000 hours converting the stock one HAH! Traded my truck pan to a buddy for his LS1 pan Ported my own heads and oil pump Did some trade work for a 3600 Performabuilt stall My engine/trans had 10k miles on them so no need for any other new parts. It should be a good solid 430 horse the way it's built, no worries about failures. It runs strong. I must be forgetting some nickel and dime parts...I've never added it up before and it's kind of scary haha but so far that's: $7970 |
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Ok good, I'm not alone
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I honestly think a 5.3 could be put in a truck for under $2,000 if wise choices were made and deals were found. I have seen complete running 100k mile 5.3 with 60E's go for $750.
I have seen truck pcm and harness combos unmolested go for under $250. Just take your time rerouting and pulling wires you don't need. There are diagrams all over the net. Motor mounts are cheap maybe $100 in them. Modified factory tank with an external walbro and remaining fuel system parts $200 (vette regulator/misc line) Exhaust work tying a factory manifold in to existing exhaust $150 Find a drive shaft in the junk yard if yours does not fit $75 Find a local tuner to get rid of vats and other smog related junk (if they are like me, I'll do that for $100 since it literally takes 5 minutes to do). Piece of 4" exhaust tube from your local exhaust shop to put your filter on $25 K&N cone filter $50 Right there is $1,700, leaving $300 in misc unseen items. It could be done. The problem isn't doing it cheap for stock, none of us go totaly stock. We are our own worst enemy!! |
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Mine (hopefully this works)
$79xx for all my goodies. This is not stock, and I have included a few other non motor things that occurred during that timespan. Mine would be well under 7 without things like the seats etc that I added./ |
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Ok, I do not feel bad any longer, I thought I was breaking the bank at $4K.
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I have a 71 Chevy Short Wide Bed PU that I swapped a 5.3 LS1 and 4L60E trans into. Here is a cost breakdown for my swap.
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One thing that made me go the LSx route was the HP/TQ and my hope for MPGs in comparison to a very hot 350 or mild 383 and I would still have TH350.
I felt like the LSx swap would offer more power and overdrive than I could get for the money if spent on a 383. |
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the route i have chosen to to NOT KEEP UP WITH TOTALS...... :-)
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The LS swap into my 4X4 got put off to build my daughters 72 nova. I ended up installing a 5.3 and a 700r4 into her car first. I contacted a company called Wait4me performance for the wiring. http://www.wait4meperformance.com/.
At $360 was by far the best deal on the computer tune and harness modification I found. I sent them the computer and the stock harness and they trimmed the unneeded wires and tuned the pc to my setup, ie: cam, intake, trans ... I sent off nearly every wire under the dash and in the engine compartment from the doner truck and when I got it back, the harness I was to use was seperated from the rest with easy to read labels. That 18 months ago and I just checked his website and it looks like his price hasn't changed. @ $360 nobody else comes close. |
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when can i get motor mounts for a 5.3 to bolt up to 71 c10
and a tranny cross member? |
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see your other post
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I like the break down with the part numbers. |
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I think the original question concerned gas mileage, at least in part.
I have owned many 5.3 and 4.8 new GM trucks and SUVs. In those new vehicles, with very careful driving, I got 17 mpg city and 23 mpg highway, whether it was 4.8 or 5.3. Rear axle ratio is important -3.23 best for mpg, 3.73 worst. However, my latest new vehicle was a 2010 GMC Sierra Ext. Cab with 4.8 and 3.23, and that got 15.5 city and 19 highway. If I did more conventional (less stop and go) driving I think I would have gotten 17/23 on that vehicle also. I am very anal about keeping track of mpg, and drive like your grandma (not the one from Pasadena.) Some practical considerations would rule out the LS swap for me. In AZ you are not allowed to swap engines according to emissions rules, even if the replacement engine produces less emissions. You must have factory original engine and all factory smog components in place. Some say they get through emissions with modified/newer engines, but I always get super inspected when I go to emissions and would never pass - plus I think there are technically fines for this kind of mod. As stated above, mpg would not improve much for a swap, assuming you are comparing the engines in a lightweight 1/2 ton truck. Most old squares get 10-12 city, 13-15 highway - but I think you can do better with a V6 and open rear end and overdrive transmission - especially highway. I only drive my truck about 3000 miles per year, but it is a 454/SM465 3/4 ton beast with a dump bed conversion, so it is suited for my limited purpose as is, even if it is only 8-11 mpg city - which is the only place I drive it. It sits idling at stop lights more the it drives down the road. As most forum members posting here know, the greatest cost in owning these old squares is all of the non-drive train components - over time. All of the electrical/mechanical/interior trim parts add up over time. While this is ultimately true for any vehicle, it really makes more economic sense to buy a newer (or new) vehicle and limit your other expenses. Modern trucks with LS engines in decent shape go for $7-10K and you won't have to put much money in them if you get a good one. |
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Great thread usmcchevy!
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I'll have to get my spreadsheet at home.
However, my 68 didn't come with an engine or transmission so I would have had to spend a lot of the same money whether I went LSx, SBC, or BBC so to me it was a no brainer. |
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I need to take time and break my build down, I think it was around 8K total.
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TTT, Keep them coming! I updated my cost breakdown a little:chevy:
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TTT :mm:
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I swapped my engine in phoenix with no probs?? I built my 68 firebird in Phoenix with a 6.0 swap. I didnt have to smog it because of the car is a classic so it was exempt? I registered it there and everything. Also my buddy who has a 79 Z28 swapped a 5.3 in it with no legal issues. I have meet several people in the area that have done the swaps as well in Phoenix. So in AZ so are allowed but maybe your city has different rules.
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I agree with vannatta. I'm in Tucson. They don't even open my hood at emissions.
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I'm getting a local Transmission shop, who is trying to become a complete custom shop, here in West Louisiana to do my swap. He's done 5 swaps so far and has 4 more lined up after me. I'll update on the quality and service once it's done (should be about 4-5 weeks from now). It is a 5.3 with a nv3500 out of a Regency Sport Truck. Here's what I'm paying:
$700 for Modified Harness and reflashed PCM $1250 for Engine/Transmission $65 for the mounts $275 for fuel system $100 for Misc fittings $500 for labor So the swap is $2890 (and I've set aside a couple hundred extra for just in cases, but he says that's accurate) He does not provide headers/exhaust/AC installation. I bought a set of Pacesetter Ceramic F-body headers for $385 from auto anything (but you can get cheaper headers). I'm also going to modify a camaro/truck pacesetter y-pipe and attach a 3" glasspack with down turn for about $250 total. So that puts my motor/trans swap total to $3,525. He's also rebuilding my 12 bolt with 3.42's and a Detroit Locker TrueTrac system for $875. (I'm installing a blazer tank before I take it to the shop, so he's running the lines all the way to the rear.) Anymore questions just ask. Shane |
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For a complete beginner with wiring, how hard is this really? And I want to be at $2500, that is motor in, running down the road with an LSx/4L60E combo. I bet it can be done, cause I ain't worried bout power too much. I want a nice reliable truck.
Damn I shoulda never stepped in here. I was convincing myself that I should just rebuild the '75 350 I have and find a trans but after all that with motor mounts and exhaust I am gonna be near $1400 what is another $1000 and I have a LSx :D |
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The key to how much this swap costs is how much your initial investment in the motor and tranny was. I've bought a 4.8 with a cracked head for $125 and I've paid $1200 for a 6.0. There are deals to be had just set back and watch for them. Right now in my 69 c10 I have:
4.8-$125 4.8/5.3 head-$40 head gasket and bolts-$60 edelbrock ls1 box bought used-$100 used 224/228 580 cam-$125 used comp 918's-$60 carb intake from eBay-$115 swap plates eBay-$28 s10 swap headers from eBay-$150 factory pulleys and brackets-$50 Hughes crank spacer from jegs-$45 edelbrock carb- free I had fuel pump-$60 so for a total of $958 I have a 4.8 in my 69 c10. I'm sure there's other costs like oil, filter and other items but they should be close to the same for any engine installation. Posted via Mobile Device |
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What are they checking for on your vehicle in Tucson? |
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I know it isnt cheaper but it sure is better IMO, I went with Nelson Performance in San Antonio. great customer service and you can keep sending the PCM back when you add stuff to the truck for a retune.
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I estimated the swap to run $3k and I'll probably come in a grand or more over that, due to impatience and some upgrades to my original plan.
I hoped to find a complete donor vehicle, but the 99-03 trucks are really popular work rigs for small business owners around here so the used parts market is very competitive. I decided to pop on this motor I could verify compression and oil condition on. Fingers still crossed on that one. 900 for an L59 with all accessories, intake and harness 100 for core trans 850+core trans for a proper rebuild 4L60e 330 for a spectra efi tank 75 to replace bullsh*t spectra pump 75 for brendan to flash vats/emissions out 30 for wiring harness parts & supplies (relays, fuse blocks, obdii port) 300 roughly for AN fittings, hose, filter and hard line for fuel system 2660 is where I'm at so far. still needed: headers, mounts, radiator as the big ticket items at around 800-1000 and probably another 1000 in incidentals, last minute express shipping of parts etc... one thing I will add is that my amazon prime account has saved me probably $500 so far. Not just fast free shipping, but crazy deals on simple stuff like gaskets, wire, grade 10.9 bolts etc... |
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I paid for a dyno tune and new harness. Dyno tune is ALWAYS better, but not always necessary. As far as the harness goes, I didn't want to spend $400 to still have a 10 year old harness. I paid a little more upfront for something brand new with connections I don't need to worry about for a long time.
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I had a $3k goal also, but ended up closer to $6k.
X2 on amazon though. Not always the greatest for everything if you can wait for standard shipping, but car parts are almost always cheaper. |
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I have both sitting in the driveway:
running/driving 72 C20 and running driving 00 Silverado 5.3l what would i need to buy that i do not already have in order to swap the motor trans from the 00 into the 72 ? |
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Using many years of experience and buying what was needed to change the engine and transmission. Job complete wallet lighter! |
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