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1965 Ford Mustang
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Factory Air, Factory non power Disc brakes, 289/C4/2.80, I believe it's wimbledon white with the meduium blue interior. It's a C code 289 and has the original 2 barrel on it. It supposedly only has 27K on it (28K now) but I have no real way to verify it nor do I really truely care. Absolutely Zero rust.
I finally took some really good pics of it. Not sure what I'm going to do with it, other than drive it. Definitely some kind of stereo upgrade, there's only 3 AM stations around here and they have some weird crap on them! |
Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
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Oh, almost forgot, I want to swap the C4 for a T5. Maybe next year.
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Motor and chassis...
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Trunk and interior...
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The best reading on the suspension http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101 On the radio the easy way is get a under dash din mount or a marine one has a door on it so you can hide it.If it has front drums changing it to disc would be top of the list to me.If you do a lot of night driving h4 head lights and led gauge cluster are well worth it too.
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I don't think I'll be messing with the suspension at all. It rides and handles well, no vibrations and goes in a straight line. It already has discs up front and stops pretty well.
I want to keep it as stock looking as possible. I was thinking about the radios that look factory but have an ipod jack, etc or maybe add a center console and hide it in there. Kick panel speakers and a new rear decklid cover that I can cut up in case I want to put it back to stock to sell it (this is one of the most factory looking cars I've ever seen.) |
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Very Nice. I love the stangs
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Yep...I just decided I want those wheels on mine stang Jesse....:D
Looks like you need a cool front tag for it too!!!:metal: I'm gonna run the one my parents had on mine....it was a "Fayetteville, NC 1966" tag....yellow w/ black letters This thing looks so dang cool man...I can't wait to get mine done!!!! Quote:
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Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
I dont' know for sure, but an ole timer at a show told me they were put on 67+ cars. I really have no idea, but they do look cool. I think they're 14x6s. So tiny by todays standards :lol: I wish the tires were a tad bit smaller, but they're brand new so they stay for now. I think a set of slightly smaller redlines would look badass.
Forgot to thank Andrewmp6 for the link. Lots of good reading on there. Thinking about it... I've never really liked the nose high stance of the early stangs... might have to do something about that.... ...and Geoff... allfordmustangs.com has a really good classic section. I originally joined for info on the 2011. Bunch of BS and crap in the new car area, same as any other... V6's suck, only V8s rule, your fuel mileage is BS, bunch of whiney asses... but the classic section is a lot more like this place. Bunch of guys and gals that really love the first gen Mustangs and so far have been pretty helpful and nice. I'm Kona Blue Pony over there. |
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She is a beauty..skip tha c4 if you don't do t5 & think AOD
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I forgot about you having the under dash air that makes a under dash radio hard to do,There is a radio or two that fit the factory hole but i haven't heard many good things about either one.A center console would be the best bet for a din size and still be easy to use.I'm kinda a old car junkie but i have a soft spot for early mustangs my dad had a 71 when i was a kid.
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Update: Had to put a new carb on the car, even after rebuilding the old one it still leaked, I read that they can wear out around the butterfly/throttle shaft and leak and that's where gas was coming out of this one? I bought a rebuilt one from Rock Auto and it's been awesome ever since.
Before the carb, I had to feather the throttle or it would sputter and stall on take offs until the car was up to full temp, even then it was a little "weak". I can now HAMMER it and she GOES! It's like it found 20-30 horses. NOW it feels like a V8 car. I got 15mpg on my last 2 tanks, I'll have to run this new tank to see what I get. If it gets 15-16 I just can't see the point of adding OD to the car... on my 67 C10 it made a big difference but with the rear gear on this car, it might not... |
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I used to get about 16mpg out of my Omega with a 350. Very tall gears like yours. I think 2.75 or so. That thing would fly! And I'll bet yours can too.
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Sounds like she's running good buddy!
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I want this so bad!! lol....I hope to get one as my next project in a year or so
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If you do a aod swap you can run a 3.55 or up gear and still have pretty good mileage out of it.One guy i know has a efi 302 and a t5 with a 3.55 gear in a 65 fastback,He has broke 20mpg on a long road trip with it before.
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My year of manufacturer plate is legal now... and yes, it does say "The Evil One." :metal:
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That is a very nice 'stang! :metal: I'd worry that an overdrive trans would drop the RPMs to low to be beneficial.
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Thanks! It would. It would hardly ever be in OD. Most guys that do the swap put in a 3.5 rear end gear.
Right now, the car is a bit slow for a V8 car that only weighs around 2700 pounds, mostly due to the sluggish 2.8 rear end. If I put in a steeper gear the car will be A LOT more fun, but be using more fuel during cruising and a lot louder. If I add the gear and OD the car will be a lot more fun to drive AND have the OD for cruising, but I don't have an extra couple grand laying around... so what it has is plenty fine for now. The A/C did go out on it. The pre 67 compressors didn't have a safety cut off if the R12 level got too low, so even though it was still really cold air, I guess my R12 level got low, because my compressor started knocking like crazy when running. Next project is converting it to R134. It's about a $600 kit, including the new factory looking compressor. I'm trying to keep this one original looking, but maybe with some modern wheels... |
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I couldn't help myself... I made it a whole 8 months before I took something major apart (the carb rebuild was a necessity.)
I hate lap belts. I did a face plant into the dash of my dad's old jeep with lap belts when we were out 4 wheeling when I was maybe 11 or 12. We went off the road and into a ditch. I think I broke my nose and it bled like crazy. So I'm putting 3 points in the old pony car. The car is fully restored, so I had to be carefull removing the headliner enough to slip the bracket up the inside of the b pillar. You have to remove EVERYTHING in the back of the car to get to the headliner. This is the bracket (it's the "mounting plate" one): http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/boltkit.html I threaded it with 5/16 course threads and installed grade 8 bolts. It should never move now. I still have to add one more bottom mount. |
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Im not into Fords, but I perfer the old Mustangs compared to the Newer ones
Great Car bro |
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How it looks... I didn't want to cut the hole in the headliner for the bolt until the headliner is back in and snug.
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Where did you get the Mustang at ?
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Thanks! Try out a new one! My wife has the 2011 305 horse V6 and it is wicked fun to drive! I bought it last April from Jim Barkley Toyota in Asheville, NC. The car is in AMAZING condition.
This car looks just like mine, except for the stripes, and I think I want to run this exact wheel/tire combo with the shelby drop: http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13577051613236 http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13577051522114 |
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Holy cow man, Looks sick now
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Haha sh*t.Now I feel like a DS
I hope you can do it though |
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Took a trip to Charlotte today, updates to follow!
Geoff, I thought about visiting you when I was halfway home... I saw a green 99-06 burb and you popped in my head, wish I had seen it on the way up. |
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I have seen that place somewhere LOL
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Because I bolted in the bracket, I had to skim a little off the backside of the plastic on the upper mount. It now clears without issue.
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Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
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The easiest mounts were the buckle and the front of the three point, I used the factory locations for those.
The belts I ordered had an agle to them on the front mount. The way I installed them (which made the most sense to me) this was either angled wrong into the door or if I flipped it the other way, the belt was twisted. So I put it in my vise and slowly bent the bracket the other way. Now the belts are straight and the angle is the correct direction. |
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I then needed a floor anchor point. What better place then where 3 panels overlap? I'm using a bracket on the bottom as well. I then had to bend the bracket beause of the angle, then a little slit in the carpet... and done!
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The end result is what I think it would have looked like if Ford had done it back in the day.
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All the "marks" on the belts are just dust, etc... I need to clean them up again. I'm really happy I went with the drop sash. I'm 5'8" and about 170lbs and it's really comfortable for me.
I added the center console as well. I'll be mounting a stereo unit inside of it, leaving the AM stereo in the dash with it's own dash speaker. I also purhased kick panel speaker pods and I'm going to install two speakers in the rear deck. |
Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
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I got the headliner mocked back up so I could poke the hole for the bolt to go through... that was a tense moment! I noticed my roof doesn't have any insulation installed, so I'm going to drop the bows and put some dynamat up there, (they actually pop off pretty easy, popped the back-most two loose to do the bracket install.) With them all loose I should be able to get something up there, doesn't have to be perfect, a strip between each bow should make a nice difference.
That's one side done. The other side should go much much quicker. I already have all the brackets bent, etc. I also installed my new door rearview mirror to replace the old pitted one. I spent most of the day messing with my new console, cutting it up to hide a modern radio head unit inside of it, and cutting up the rear package tray for 6x9 speakers hidden under a factory style speaker grill. I only got one side done. Had to come in to watch my recorded playoff games! |
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Time for the hidden stereo!
Take apart your brand new $115 console and have at it! *The console color matches pretty close in person, the pics make it look like it's way off, it's not. 1. Take the bottom out. 2. Notice that the hump cut out doesn't remotely match the floor hump even though it's made specifically for a mustang... 3. Fix the problem by using shims, glue, finishing nails and left over fabric from the bottom. 4 & 5. Even with the bottom cut out, there still won't be enough clearance... so the top had to be notched and refinished as well. |
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