1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Installing lift components sourced from offroad design. To be installed:

Tuff Country 2" EZ Ride Springs front and rear
Tuff Country u-bolt kits front and rear
ORD Greasable bushings all around
ORD Extended Brake Lines
ORD Front shackles
ORD Sway bar disconnect kit
ORD Steering Brace
Bilstein 5125 shocks front and rear 10"
F0rd F250 front shock mounts

Truck has been serving as my daily driver for the last two years or so. Goal is a better ride, to replace a bunch of WORN OUT components, and gain a little off road capability. Right now running 32" BFG AT's, would like to get a taller skinnier tire at some point but no change to the rolling stock right now. More details on the truck are in the build thread.

Let the fun begin!

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

I'm reusing the rear shackles, and removing the factory rubber bushings is a huge PITA. I found the best method for me to be drill out the old bushing, spray with penetrating lube to get the bolt jacket out, then pop out the rubber bushing.

Once the bushing is out the metal sleeve must be removed from the shackle so the ORD poly bushing can be inserted. I used a hack saw to cut the sleeve, then fold in a corner and drive it out with a hammer.




Shackle installed.



And the rear end is back together.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Battery powered grease gun is awesome. Now that the truck has about 30 zerks, it comes in very handy.

Should finish the front end of the install before the end of the weekend.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Looks good, lots of shiney new parts.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

This install is going a little slower than planned, as is often the case. I had to unbolt all of my exhaust hangers but two, along with the collectors in order to move the pipes enough to access the upper front shackle hanger bushings and bolts. Also had to unbolt the headers to allow enough room to remove and install the front flex brake hoses (PITA!). The swaybar disconnect is installed along with the nice little bracket to support it while disconnected.

I had one of the front springs come with a defective sleeve installed from the factory. Luckily, I had another one around that fit and had the holes drilled for the greasable bushings. The hardware for the rear greasable bushings on the springs was too large in diameter for the sleeves in the rear of the front springs, so I had to swap those as well.

As the truck sits now, front springs, break lines and swaybar disconnect are installed. Tonight I will tighten all that down, flex the truck out with the forklift (nice to have around!) and measure for the mounts for the front springs. If all goes well I might finish getting those installed as well. Lastly I need to install the steering brace, then button everything up and go play in the snow.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Looking good Marcus. Dealing with those old bushing is a hassle and a half that is for sure. I had the same problem on the right front front shackle bolts where the bolts would not come completely out without hitting the exhaust so I slid them out until they hit the exhaust then used a cut off wheel to cut the bolts, then slide them out further and cut again until they came out completely. That turned out much easier than dropping the exhaust.

I noticed your right rear shock is installed upside down. Did you have issues mounting them the other way where the body of the shock hits the axle tube? I had to beat a small dent in the shock body on both my K10 and Suburban in order to fit the left rear shock. I thought about mounting them upside down but wasn’t sure I would like the boots being at the bottom. Superlift said the shocks could be mounted either way or to “massage” the shock body to make them fit so I chose the later. :lol:

Looking forward to seeing the final product. You will love how much better it will ride now. Nice work!

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Thanks Larry! The shocks are monotube gas charged and everything I've read says they can be mounted either way. Most folks I've seen online have mounted them boot down. I have pleanty of clearance that way, not sure the big tubes would fit against the axle tube that well, but I honestly didn't try. Not that it means much, but the Bilstein logo is right side up with the boot down.

I'm looking forward to the ride and hope it is nice and cushy. I'm about to go flex it out and measure for the front shock mounts, and see what I need for longer bump stops. I think the rear will need some longer stops for sure.

Initial measurements show the front raised up 3.75" (right) and 3.25" (left). The rear increased 3.25" (right) and 2.75" (left). I'll check again after I break it in a bit, but if it stays close to how it sits now, I'll likely add a 1" zero rate in the back, which will also help a bit with the long shocks.

Pics to follow later this evening.
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Here are a few pics with the springs, shackles and brake lines on. I put the tires back on to see how it sits. Little bit higher in the front, but I'm going to use it a bit before I change anything.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

It actually flexes pretty well. Swaybar was disconnected, limiting factor was the drooping rear tire raised up off the ground. I need to add 4.5" to my static shock length, and I will be smack in the middle of the shocks' travel. 7.5" difference as measured today in the front, and the shocks have 10" of travel, so I'm in good shape.

Nothing was binding at any corner, so I could in theory get a bit more, but realistically it'll never get more than that with the type of wheeling I do. At full stuff I still had measurable uptravel left in the shock in the rear. I'll probably get some longer bump stops at some point, but it doesn't seem critical. Going to need some steering correction at some point also...

Clearance below the lifted rear tire was 34".

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Well crap. Everything was humming along nicely until...... With the driver's side f250 shock mount and shock installed I went to push in the clutch and... NO GO. The pedal end of the z-bar hits the top of the shock mount squarely. I think it would clear if I bent the bar just a bit towards the vehicle centerline. Has anybody ever tried this? Can't believe I didn't think to check the travel of the clutch prior to drilling all those holes in my frame...

I ground the heads off of the rivets for the old shock mount and was able to use one of the existing rivet holes for the new shock mount once I opened it up to 7/16".

I also came up with a good way to deal with these high pressure shocks: some very large cable ties from Napa make a great adjustable length limiting band around the outside. I actually calculated the length the shock should be with the axle fully drooped by measuring the distance from the original mount to the axle mount and then adding the 4.5" I determined I needed (previous post). I set the shock to this length using the zip ties, then bolted up the top hoop and mocked them up to ensure proper angle (shock parallel mount). After I marked the location of the new upper mount, I marked the bolt hole location from the back of the frame through the existing rivet hole that I reused. Cut the mount to length, drilled the first hole on the vise, and bolted it up. I drilled the next two holes through both the frame and the mount on the vehicle.

Any bright ideas on my clutch linkage problem? Maybe it's hydraulic time, but I really want to go for a drive!

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

I'm amazed at the flex you have there. Nice you have the extended brake lines, that was a real setback for me when I put in my lift. When I ordered my shackle bushings, I could only get the bushings with a new shackle, I had no problem with that just to save the hassle of removing the old ones, looks like your system works well thou.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Hey MTCK,

is your truck lifting to pee? in the garage?!?

Bad boy!! :lol:

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Yeah it is often not well behaved... :-)
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Here's a look at my clutch linkage problem. After looking at it further, I'm pretty sure that I'm going to need to make a change to hydraulic. While I'm gathering pieces I'll pull this shock and tower off and bolt the stock tab back into place, maybe use one of my old rear shocks for the time being.

The shift rod from the clutch pedal is attached on the outboard side of the zbar, so bending it a little won't do.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Did continue on and make a little more progress. Had to clearance the inner fender well on the passenger side to make room for the shock and mount. On a side note, save your bushing sleeves from the factory shocks, you will need them! I almost threw them out but luckily didn't... They had to be cut to fit in the F250 upper mounts.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

That's exactly the suspension I want for my k25.
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Nice build. I like the methodical approach.

I hadn't thought of using the ford front shock mounts on my build but I'm considering it after seeing what you've done here.

Good work!

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Thanks Jason. I wish I could take credit for the original idea, but the F250 mounts came from ORD to use with these long Bilstien shocks with the short lift I'm running.

Made a little progress tonight, though it felt a bit like one step forward and a step or two back. I took the drivers side shock off, took the mount off, drilled out the second unused rivet hole, and reinstalled the factory mount with bolts. This will get me on the road until I can sort out the hydro clutch, or whatever I end up doing to solve this clearance problem.

I also installed the shock on the passenger side and attached a better picture of the trimming I had to do on the inner fender.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

I also installed the steering brace from ORD. It was pretty easy and didn't take too long. Lots of red locktite...

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Looking good buddy! Those Stupid Duty front shock brackets are becoming very popular. I saw those mounted on Mosesburb’s burb this past summer and those brackets look very durable for a Ford part. I like the idea of using those.

Even though your signature clearly says your truck is a SWB, I had it in my mind it was a LWB until I saw the picture. Again, the hard work is looking great! :c2:

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Looks good man.
On the F250 shock mounts: I have seen them rip off the frame, so you might want to make a gusset for the top of the frame, to the top of the shock mount. And put a plate on the inside and bolt thru it. On the driverside, this will probley make your z bar problem worse. More snitz to overcome.

When I was checking suspension travel on my truck, the limiting factor was drive shaft slip yoke travel and bind from too much angle at full droop. I had to put limit straps on to prevent any damage.

Keep at it.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Have you guys measured how much droop you are getting at the rear axle? I'm curious because I'm trying to set up my rear driveshaft right now and have some concerns. Sorry to hijack!
For the OP I would simply switch to a hydraulic clutch. The stock master and slave cylinders, hydro clutch fork, and hose from an 86ish Chevy truck can be had relatively cheaply from your local auto store. You'll also need a bracket from advance adapters to mount the slave. Then just figure out the location for the master and setup the pushrods from the pedal.
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Thanks a bunch guys. The f*rd brackets are pretty solid - I'm actually more concerned with the frame and connection... I think the gusset and plate on the back will help a bunch. I think I'll go that route when I have the whole thing blown apart some time down the road. If I had a little more lift I'm not sure I'd need them, but I wanted to run these shocks and there is no way they would survive without the added length.

It is definitely hydraulic clutch time! I'd like to run the factory 85-87(91) pedal assembly, but dang, those things are hard to find up here! I'll keep looking for a bit before I do something different.

Thanks for the pointers, OLDCHEV. I've seen you drive and I'm sure you'll find the weak spots before most! :-D Argonaut, I only checked the travel at the corners (shock mounts) and not at the differential. I can do it the next time I have the rear up in the air. I don't plan on doing much high speed pounding, and from looking at my slip yokes I have some spline left in both directions on the rear. I haven't checked the front at full droop on the drivers side, but it might need a strap to keep from pulling apart / binding.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Well I finally finished all the other little projects and pulled it out on the road today. Man it is a whole new truck. The ride is very firm and controlled, not at all bouncy. I only tried it out on paved roads, which are plenty bumpy around here. There won't be any wheeling until I get the hydraulic clutch swapped in and put the extended shock mount on the driver's side.

I did cruise at highway speed in both 2 wheel and 4 wheel drive. No driveline vibrations in either scenario. The nose is still several inches higher than the rear. I have probably 300 lbs of stuff in the back (spare, hi lift, action packer full of parts, tools, spare fluids etc) under the tonneau cover which makes it even more pronounced. I expected the front and rear height to be closer, but I guess the added weight in the back, and extended shackles on the front are not helping. I eventually want to swap a blazer tank to the rear which will add another 250 lbs behind the rear axle. If the front doesn't settle down I'll have to do something to even it out... For starters I'll put some miles on.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Nice truck! I know what you mean about those old bushings being a pain. I just installed a rear shackle flip and front sway bar bushings along with a new drag link for tighter steering. I'm glad thats done.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Thanks splehigh. Yeah I wouldn't sigh up to do the bushing swaps for fun... It's nice when it's done though, and if I ever have to do it again for some reason, everything is greased now.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

I might have missed it but, are you adjusting the steering link for the lift? Looks like you need a raised steering or dropped pitman arm... watch out for bump steer if not.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Somehow I missed the update on the 11th. Looks great Marcus!

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Thanks Larry! Did I read a rumor about a D60 swap? Don't keep us hanging, it is winter and we need our BigAssGas project!

Yo MSGROSS, no steering arm or drag link yet. All the pics I posted of the drivers side that show the arm are with the axle unsupported, at full droop. The drag link isn't perfectly level, but not nearly as bad as shown in those pictures. My plan is to let the springs settle a bit, then measure and see what I need to do to get the steering geometry back in line.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Hehe, yes….you did. It was a quick easy swap too as I collected all of the needed swap parts before I started removing the D44. I spent two hours last night pulling the D44, repainting springs, rolling the D60 under it then spent a few hours tonight getting the D60 all bolted up. The D44 brake calipers are still connected and hanging on the springs. Tomorrow I need to pull the D44 calipers and lines off and hook up the new D60 brake lines, and retorque u-bolts. Zoomad is supposed to swing by Thursday night to help bleed brakes. I’ll have the full report once it is done. The bigassgas project for this winter is a NV4500 into the Polar Bear Burb. :lol:

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

I saw the 4500 swap Larry, looks great! I finally put a zero rate in the back. Naturally I needed longer u-bolts, so I had to get a new pair. It sits closer to level now, but still has a bit of squat in the rear. I'll drive it some more and see how the springs settle out.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Hard to tell from that picture but it does look like it is down a bit in the rear. That is alright, if they can’t sit level a lower rear stance looks better than a higher rear stance. Those zero rate relocation blocks are a beautiful thing, aren’t they?

Man, I can’t get over how much your truck looks like my buddy’s old truck. Actually, my brother bought this dark blue truck brand new in 1977. It was originally two tone blue. My buddy painted it dark blue then regretted it as it was hard to keep clean :lol:. This is an old picture from around 2005.
http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1055/1...0642a85f_z.jpg

The 77 in front is what the dark blue one above looked like when it was new. My dad’s buddy had a 76 the same color :lol:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3248/3...887_z.jpg?zz=1

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Cool pics! I like his 8 lug drive train more than mine! The dark green is a pain in the *ss to keep clean, but honestly it's just not clean that often, so it's not a big problem.

I've been kicking around that if I want it to sit level, I could put the zero rate up front and do a 2.5" shackle flip in the back. It just keeps getting taller and taller...

It'll level out a bit when empty as I keep a couple hundred pounds of stuff in the back during winter months.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Don't know how I missed this thread earlier, but what are your thoughts on the Bilsteins?

I put 4" TC springs in a couple of years ago along with all the other ORD goodies on my K5 that you did but I used their shocks. While OK, I've always been partial to Bilsteins IF they are the right shock for the application.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

I haven't given the truck a proper flogging yet, but it feels very controlled on road. I'm still waiting to put on the drivers side extended shock mount. I would measure and make sure you don't need the longer mounts or at least some longer bump stops with 4" lift and the 10" travel shocks. It also handled pretty good at the ice track. I linked a video at the end of my build thread. Will let you know when I give it a beat!
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

what size lift is the dark blue one in the top pic?

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

A quick update on the suspension, including the shocks. Last weekend we did a little off highway adventure / camping trip to the old Nebesna Mine. It is about 45 miles into the Wrangell St. Elias National Park, on a dirt road / trail. Most of the time there are some water crossings (not this year), and pretty soupy areas at the end, but it all passable in 2 wheel drive except maybe the last 1/2 mile that is a little steep.

The trip also included about 650 miles of highway cruising over some of the nicest pot holed and frost heaved asphalt Alaska has to offer. The suspension handled GREAT. I had probably 300-400 pounds of food, beer, water, gear and fire wood in the back. I cruised 75-80 on a lot of the paved sections and comfortably at 40-50 on the gravel. The shocks did not fade after miles of washboard and kept good control. They also handled the big frost heaves well, and the truck felt more solid than the Toyota Tacoma that I drive most of the time now. It was very confident over the big bumps, and smaller sharper jolts.

This was the first time I took it out and really ran it hard for a long period of time and I was very impressed. I greased all my joints up before I left and everything worked very smoothly. I didn't feel fatigued at all after three pretty long days of driving, which did not used to be the case with this rig. Two thumbs up to ORD and the Bilsteins.

Now if only I had some more unsprung weight...

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Thanks for the update! Its the Exact suspension i want to do on my 78! Pretty smooth on the highway?

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

Yep, rides great on the highway. You still feel expansion joints etc obviously but it soaks up the bumps great. If you're lifting your K25 maybe a shackle flip in the rear would give you a good ride? ORD makes a 2.5" flip.

Re: 1977 K10 2" Lift Install
 

I have considered it. Maybe even swap to later model rear springs as well. I want to make this truck where i can actually enjot driving it! As it is, i lift my butt off the seat when i see big bumps or rail road tracks! Not pleasant.