Identity Crisis 51 Project
 

New guy here from Alaska with a long road ahead in the shop with this old girl. Found this project on a 4x4 forum listed by a friend of mine. Went over and looked at it in the brush behind his house and had to have it. Loaded it up this morning with my 7 year old daughter and nephew and we headed for home. It's a '51 GMC cab and frame with a '51 Chevy front clip. It will need a lot of love but is a great starting point for me to learn with my girls helping me out. Well here are some pics of loading up and getting it home. I will have lots of questions for all the folks here with all the awesome builds.
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Oops, guess pics will have to wait for a bit until maintenance is finished. Pics to come.
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My 7 year old pulling it onto the trailer.
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Got it home and the front clip set in the frame with the hood. Can't wait.
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An interior shot.
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Cool! That automatic stuff is gold if you aren't going to use it.

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Oh man, this thing is awesome, I can't wait to have a 5 window split, I have a 5 window but its a one piece windshield. Love the patina. Looks like you got a nice rear end in there, one less thing you gotta worry about. subscribed.

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I'm subscribed. Awesome find. Can't wait to see you tear into it.

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So winter is over and now it is time to dig a little into this project.

First thing is going to be trying to repair all the bed panels.

Second thing I would like to do is figure out a drivetrain and rear axle for the truck. I would really like to keep the automatic stuff shift linkage in it and use it for whatever transmission I decide on. First thoughts are a 4.3L Vortec V-6 to a 700R4 with an S-10 rear axle. Second thought is the big V-8 option with a larger rear axle but I would really like to have this be a high school ride for my daughter when she is old enough.

Next thing is decoding the VIN: 101 22 P 55290
It looks like this is actually a 1953 GMC with a 228 engine and a 116" wheelbase. If anyone can break down any more information or let me know how I can find out more information on it, I would appreciate it.

I will post some more pictures as I start taking it apart.

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If you need parts, check with Alaska dragger if you havent already. He is located (as name would suggest) in Alaska. He as accumualted various parts for these trucks.

Marc

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i did not know that gmc had a hydromatic in 51 or 53. i believe the first hydromatic for chevy was 54 but then again i may be wrong
i would definitely reuse that shifter, it would be easy to do just with a few length changes on the linkages


http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...1&d=1376364189

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53 was first yr for gmc hydra-matic and they are pretty rare. 54 chevy got them as an option. I have only come across a few 53s on the web looking for parts for my 55 1st series HM. 53 gmc is very rare, 54-55 more common in gmc since it was the premium truck line, chevy is farely rare.

Looks like lots of the hm parts arent there or are missing. The floorboard/toe boards are different for the hm and it should be a push button on the dash for the starter. The trans cross member is bolt in, which all are unique to the hm and are hard to find. Since it has a newer axle i am going to assume the driveline is long gone. You can put a standard floorboard/toeboard in it but would be ashame to loose the originality/uniqueness.

Post over on oldgmctruck.com or stovebolt.com and they will tell more about the rarety of what you have.

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Welcome from Soldotna. Nice save and looks pretty solid.

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Need to change the name of the thread to Identity Crisis 53 Project. Thanks for the info on how rare this truck is. I have been all over the internet the last couple of days looking at parts and trying to find information on it. Really would like to keep the hydromatic stuff in it. I have a bunch of boxes from inside the cab when I brought it home to go through and see what's in them. I will post photos of some of it if I can't figure out what it is. My wife said "Rare, GREAT!" Hahahaha. She is a good sport about it all.

Eugene,
I will definitely be giving you a call and trying to get down there and check out your project sooner than later.


Eric

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It has been a long time but it is now time to start the planning stages for this build. The boss told me no messing with this truck until the Jeep was finished. Well it got finished and sold this summer so it is time to focus some time and research into starting the build on my daughter's truck.

It was moved into a shop last summer and has been kept dry for the last year.

My thoughts are to figure out a chassis and then powertrain.

I would love to keep the original frame but it seems like everyone that does a budget S10 swap comes out way ahead. The rear end that currently is in the truck is tack welded to the frame with none of the suspension parts.

What are some of the pros and cons of keeping the original frame? Has anyone boxed the frame completely for extra strength? If I can find a good running S10 with a Vortec V6 then that would seem like the most budget minded way to go. I don't need it to be a speed demon as this will be my daughter's first ride and she will be helping a lot with this build. I have been on the site for the last week or so just reading a ton of builds and researching.

So far the only real rust I have found on the cab are the front lower cowl areas where the fenders connect. The first real body work I will do on this thing will those two cowl repair panels from LMC Truck. This is going to be a huge learning process as I have never done body work before besides replacing floor pans in my jeep.

This is going to be fun.

Eric

Here is a cell phone pic of the cancer in that area.

Re: Identity Crisis 51 Project
 

glad you get a chance to get on this. the inner and outter cowl and kick panels are almost always shot. What I'd do is take a square and see if you can't get your stock fender holes mapped out onto your outter cowl, So when you go to line up your new inner cowl, you have a reference. or just leave your outter cowl on, put inner in and line it up then bolt the inner cowl on, and replace outter cowl. I'd undercoat all up under all the old and new metal you have access to. budget build or not, its worth it.

as for frame etc. I'v done two dime frames, lotta things I don't like. however they are strong and ride great if done right. you will still have a large amount of expense if you do the frame swap right. aka all new balljoints, bushings tierods, coatings, fuel lines, brake lines, list goes oooooon. It seems like the dime swap is cheaper because it is on the initial start, but in the end I bet they are close in price. For IFS you need a good 1-500 just to get the front going. but you'll save a lot of time moching up the body and fitting the radiator on a dime swap. with the original frame aka OG frame, you'll want to relocate the rear axle since from the factory they are offset.

as for engine I see where you are coming from, though I would just go v8. but you will save some room going v6. look up joedoh on here he just did a dime frame with EFI v6

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Good luck with the build. I will be tagging along.

I am sure you have checked out Skymangs S10 sticky for good information. 99 brings up some good points about the expenses involved. Which ever way you go will be fun for sure.

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I had a 1947 with a 4.3 vortec/4l60e and it was not a slouch, accelerated well, highway speeds no problem. you will be plenty happy.

I dont know what shipping to alaska entails but I have a 49-53 GMC hood and grille here if you want to solve the identity crisis haha

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That's awesome, I just replied to a Craigslist ad for a grill and fenders for a GMC. What are you looking to get for yours, I might have to pay for shipping for that. I am really wanting to get it back to original and could sell my Chevy front end. PM me a price and I will see what I can do for shipping. Thanks.

Eric

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99 to life

Thanks for the advice on the inner and outer cowl replacing. I think that will be the first thing I do to this cab. I am looking at getting it loaded on the trailer next time I am home with the truck and dragging it back to the far north with me along with some fab tools. I want to get the cab off the frame to get them both cleaned up and see what they need as far as metal repair. I have a little less than 5 years until my daughter has her learners permit (14 in Alaska) so I need to get busy.

Eric

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Seeing as I have no bed for this build to speak of, has anyone ever used this kit offered on eBay?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Complete-BED-K...911?nav=SEARCH

The free shipping offer even included my zip code here in Alaska. Thoughts?

Eric

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hmmm... ive seen that pic on the mar k website, it must be a mar k, i ordered a tailgate from them. Did my research and havent heard complaints. You have a 51 chevy, have you seen the beds they made in 54? If my bed sides are too expensive to fix im just going to opt for a 54 year bed, it cloose more classy IMO

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that's a big expense, you could buy a good donor truck for that price. for one, if your not going to paint it, its def a waste. 2. you could build the sides easily some guys have done it on here. You can make your own stake pockets and or but them for about 70 a piece. buy a new headboard and tailgate and your set, well below that price.

New beds are for shops building painted trucks for clients that have money IMO, not so much for guys like us that take the time to make things work and put the money elsewhere. but.. if you got the loot and plan to paint, go for it.

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My old bed panels are being brought up next week for me to start working on. Thinking about what you said this evening made me make arrangements to get the three bed sides brought up by a buddy so I can start on them in my free time. I am like everyone else that has a budget in mind. Especially having to pay for two households while I am working away from home. These will be my first attempt at true body repair, at least the bed sides and front are straight.

Eric

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Got the bed sides last night in the garage and thawing out. Took some photos of where the previous owner removed the fender bolts the "easy" way. Lots of patching needed. I think I will see about having them same blasted to see exactly where I need to replace the rotten metal.

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I just did a bunch of bedside repairs.... what a PITA....


you may just 'think' about buying new.... ;)

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ptc

I have thought about that a lot the last couple of weeks. This will be my first attempt at body repairs and I figure this will be good practice for my patience when it comes time to replace the cowl parts on the cab that need to be repaired.

I have been watching a lot of how to videos on patching, most say you don't want a perfect square patch due to the corners shrinking when welded. Is it better to cut the area out to round the corners and then make the patch and weld in place? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I know I will need to go really slow to not warp the bedside.

Eric

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I come from a bad snow belt and those are def what I'm use to seeing. If you are painting the truck, I'd find something from out west and ship it greyhound (still be cheaper than new). I like the idea of practicing on something like this, but... you still will have potential rot in the stake pockets and rails etc. its going to be very hard to get to all them areas and stop the rust. bedsides are def hard to work with, but I'd say practice on these and then save them or sell them if you find some better ones.

rounding corners on straight pieces is a good thing, but isn't mandatory. it really just helps with burning the corner off your patch. just practice, make sure your metal is clean, and stitch weld which is bouncing around. on thin metal (hardest to weld IMO) you gotta keep the heat right, too much or too little is gonna kill yah. I like to weld off of my previous weld on thin metal. So say you stitch a couple tacks and start running very small beads or more tacks, that welded tack will withstand more heat than the initial metal that is but together. So it helps with burn through. hard to explain but you just gotta practice. On heavier stuff you want to weld into a tack, not off of it as when you heat up the tack the structure can potentially move a little. assuming you have a mig welder? tig is ideal for sheetmetal, but like me and many others it still can be done with mig. I do alot of metal repair on my builds so Im finally trying to get a tig this winter. If you do mig, I'd highly suggest. .023 wire and weld with gas, not fluxcore on sheetmetal. having .030 wire isn't terrible and is a good medium for sheetmetal and thicker stuff, but .035 is better for heavy duty stuff. welding is fun, but it takes practice so working with crappy parts makes you a better craftsman IMO.

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That bedside looks like it needs a lot of patching. While potentially rewarding, it can be frustrating learning with this much patching to do.

Just for consideration, can you make a bedside? Use your original as a pattern, find some 16 gauge for the bedside, cut out to shape, then find a shop with a brake to make the bends needed. Use exhaust tubing to imitate the top bed roll and weld to the new bedside.

Mar K has the stake pocket supports priced at $45 for each front one and $55 for each rear one. A complete bedside is $320. And shipping to Alaska is probably expensive.

I saw a truck this summer and the owner built his bed this way.

Just throwing the idea out for you.

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Lots of great advice on many ways to approach this. Mine were in good condition, I warped them by trying to work too fast. I got them straight again, but it took way more time and PATIENCE than I wanted to spend on it.

I agree with 99 in that you wont find everything and be chasing the rust issues forever. and when you see rust coming thru a brand new paint job after 6 months.... it will likely REALLY piss you off!!!! - ;)

Looking for 'better' sides from the west coast like CA, AZ, NV will probably do you better than buying new. Have them dipped and then coated and you'll be good to go for 50 more years.

AD ideas of making from raw materials may be the MOST rewarding way of doing it, and least costly too. I just bought a 4x8 sheet of 18GA and it was $108 and I had them shear it down to the sizes I needed for all my fab projects and was like a $1 per cut. Muffler tubing is pretty cheap too.

Check out a HVAC shop for bending and cutting shapes or circles too. I had a local shop cut my wheel tubs for me and they were happy to do it for a 6 pack of beer for the shop guys!

good luck to ya

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The ball is in your court, I think we def gave you all viable options. 1. work with those and practice, 2. find better ones in mean time 3. build your own. PTC- I got a 4x10 sheet of 18g for $60 where I'm from. Regardless materials aren't too much and you could realistically bend them yourself if the shop charges too much. You still need to source the headboard and good tailgate, so factor that into your price too. You can make or your own cross sills in the bed.

Re: Identity Crisis 51 Project
 

Thanks for all the advice I have received from everyone. I found a complete '54 bed for $300 in California that has been stored inside for the last 20 years but it seems like it would need some work as well and then I would have to wait until I either drive down there or my buddy drives up with it. I just spoke with a coworker and he has access to a sheet metal brake and the guy that owns the shop has really good prices on sheet material. I think I will just practice on my old ones and build knew ones taking everyone's advice and buying the stake pockets to add to the bed and then take my time to find a really good set of fenders to add to it. I will update as soon as I can get materials and start bending. Thanks again.

Eric