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55.2 Chevy 3100
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Hello everyone, My name is Aaron and this is the beginning of my long over due build thread. I've been around looking since I think late 2005 but for sure 2006 and finally joined in Jan of 2010. I've seen alot of great builds on here and always enjoy looking and learning. And there are so many good builds on here that I look at and follow and I really love the 55-59's but I also follow the 48-55.1 and the 67-72's. So..ya I spend alot of time looking around. Now it's time for me to get moving on my project and share what I'm doing.
A little about me. Graduated high school in '97. Started Wildland firefighting for the Forest Service in the summer. Then went to a community college for auto collision and refinishing. Continued Fighting fire in the summers and worked a little in some body shops just in the winter for a couple years. Stayed with Fighting Fire for my Career. I have a wonderful wife (Which supports my truck addiction or at least deals with it;)) and two great little girls. Now for the truck. I've had this truck since around 1995 or 96, I drove it for a little while and then started taking it apart and well...It's been in pieces most of the time. You know how it goes big plans then life happens with a dash of procrastination and so on. It was a long box 3200. And I wanted a short box..so I bought a new short bed for it. Suspension is Air ride MII and 4 link with camaro rearend. Power Plant is a 383 stoker hooked to a 700r4. The truck has the usual rust areas in the cab but really isn't that bad. I do have tons of new parts and patch panels as well as new fenders for it that I have aqueired for it over the years. Still have all the old one's that I will hang on to. Ok...enough talking and now pic time. These are from around the time I got it. Attachment 1180412 Attachment 1180413 Attachment 1180414 |
Re: 55.2 Chevy 3100
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Here are some of the front suspension installationAttachment 1180415
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More....Also the rear suspension install which I'm currently modifying to go even lower.
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How about more..?? I know everyone likes pic's;)
The last pic is with the suspension as low as it will go..but like I said I'm moving things so it will go lower. I don't think layed out but close. The notch will be bigger and I'm moving all the brackets up. Attachment 1180425 Attachment 1180426 Attachment 1180427 Attachment 1180428 Attachment 1180429 |
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Made some new crossmembers...may actually change these too. not sure just yet. But I really wanna do something different with some round tube.
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Here are the last that I have. The mounting of the brake booster and air system. Then a shot of the cab on the dolly. I've been cleaning the shop and fixing somethings so I can start working on the truck again. So until I get going again that's about all I have for now. Which hopefully tomorrow I can get back to it. Thanks for looking.
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Looking good. I would definitely add more support over the top of your rear c channels though.
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Nice looking build.
Kim |
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Thanks Kim, your build is actually one that I check out a lot.
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Flames what 4 link did you use?
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It's from Total Cost Involved. I got a whole kit with MII and brake kit all together years ago.
-Aaron |
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My phone will only let me load one pic at a time. I managed to get a little done today. Got a late start but did what I liked till it got dark and had to roll the cab back into the shop. I started sandblasting the tight areas that are hard to get into and I really only plan on doing those areas and staying away from the larger areas that sand blasting could damage. -Aaron |
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Ok not sure why that last one came out sideways.
Here's another. Attachment 1180681 Huh..I've tried rotating it but no luck. Sorry. |
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Good idea on blasting those tight areas. I spent a ton of time trying to get the old paint out of them.
Kim |
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Nice work
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Nice truck,
Really like the suspension work |
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Kim, Jean-Marc and Fabguy thanks for all the kind words. I've been watching all of your builds and all of you do great work.
Yesterday I was able to spend a couple hours blasting the cab. I still have more I'd like to do. I had moisture problems and then it came time for family. I'll see what I can get done today. |
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Made a little more progress on the cab. I tipped it back and got the underside and some of the fire wall. Didn't do the steps because they will get replaced. Took a while because of moisture clogging the sand every once in a while. I had a trap at the blaster but it cracked sometime ago. I do have one off the compressor but the long run out of the shop it still gets moisture built up. I got some more of the inside blasted to but really not concerned with getting every thing just the hard to get places. As I look around at other parts I want to sand blast them too. So slowly but surely I'll get them. It got dark and then started to sprinkle at the end. Not the best time of year to be doing this. But before too long its gonna start snowing so I'm trying to get as much done as possible now.
Ok enough talk here is some pic's. Before and after. Attachment 1181436 Attachment 1181437 Attachment 1181439 |
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Also I've been working on the rear 4 link brackets so I could go lower. I've marked the new hole's to drill on the frame. Still need to drill them. As far as the bracket I had to cut off the tab which sits up against the bottom of the frame and I will weld it back on in its new location. I could weld the whole bracket to the frame instead of it just bolting on but I'm not ready to for that. Just in case I change my mind down the road I can take it off easier.
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Alaska Gasser- I missed your post earlier, I'm actually going to redo the c notch all together. I'm going to make a new one out of 2X4. It will allow me to go lower and will also be stronger.
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Looking good.
Kim |
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I like the crossmembers you fabricated. Replacing the c-notch area with 2"X4" tubing will give you the added clearance the modified four link setup will need. Be sure to look at the Porterbilt four link frame section they offer. They have a very good design. Also, look at their four link front brackets. I think I have changed everything I have done on mine at least once! LOL. Your build is coming along great!
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Thanks papastrk
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Thought I'd post an update.
Today I got my new C-notch cut and tacked together. And then Placed it beside the frame to check it again and did some measuring. At first I mocked up my cuts on pieces of 2x4 studs. I already got the front mounts in place and the bag and shock mount out and once I get the new notch in put it all back on in the new location. So far from measuring it will give me about 2 3/4 inches lower when completely aired out. Ok pic time. Attachment 1184024 Attachment 1184025 Also I would have gotten more done today but had to finish this Advent Calendar my wife asked me to make. Its made from 1x12 rough cut pine. From the early 1930's possibly late 20's Attachment 1184026 |
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Cool.
Kim |
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There won't be anymore progress until next week. Have plans for the weekend. And just when I was making some good progress. That's how it goes sometimes. |
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C-notch looks great. Will be much stronger this way.
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It always feels like slow motion. Here is some more progress. I've got the notch tacked in place, after much double and triple checks. Now getting the cross members for the bags and shocks put back in. Then weld it all up completely. I've noticed that since doing this I will most likely move the gas tank up, where it will set on the top of the frame rails. It's a tank from No Limit and originally it mounts to the under side of the frame but I don't like how low it will hang. Easy fix though. Hopefully tomorrow I can get back to the shop and keep plugging along. Here is some pics of the progress.
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Looks nice! Tank relocation may be a good idea when you lower the ride height so much. Have you relocated the four link front brackets?
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Be sure to keep shock travel in mind when welding the rear cross member back in.
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The bag travel will basically be vertical movement. The shock will be mounted at an angle so it will lose some of that travel in the vertical direction. I think your bags will be mounted inside the frame rail also. Right? I would tack the shock crossmember in and rock the housing to simulate body roll and measure your bag mount dimension on each side. I'm surprised that the shock limits bag travel. They aren't built to bottom out.
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As far as the shock limiting the bag travel. Not on the bottoming out part. The full extention...so not to overextend the bag. I read somewhere to set the shock so that it limits the bags overall travel other wise your bag will stretch beyond the point it's meant too and ruin the bag because the bag itself has no way to limit itself(as far as overall full extention). Trying to think of the best way to explain that. That's the way I've understood it anyway. |
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Looks good.
Kim |
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Also Thanks Kim57. I've also been thinking about how much travel for the rearend I should have past ride height to account for bumps/holes in the road. So it doesn't have a jarring effect. If anyone has advice on this I'd like to hear it. And thanks in advance. I thought I'd heard that the bars on this 4-link setup should be parallel to the ground for best results. That's where I have it sitting in the last photo I posted. Still just trying to think about shock and bag location. |
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Level four bars have zero anti squat. If front of bar is lower, truck will squat under hard acceleration and tires will try to unload. If front of bar is higher, truck will raise under acceleration and tires will load more. I would keep bars level or higher at front. I would think the bag manufacturer would have a ride height dimension for the bag to be set at. 4 1/4" is not much to work with. Some of the air bag suspension guys will have to help you with bag travel setup.
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These are the dimensions you have to get right. Great job getting those specs. I would bolt in a 9 1/8" fixture to imitate full bag extension and then mount shocks at their full extension. The shock companies would frown on using them to limit suspension travel, but you gotta limit it some way. Or risk tearing a bag. Make sure you have full bag compression going the other way. You don't want the shock to limit things that direction. Rubber bump stops should control it that direction. Hope you don't mind these suggestion. Just trying to help. As I wrote earlier, I have had to do many mods over from making mistakes.
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