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Plasti Dipped the '67
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Hey guys, so I had originally done this process over this past summer but wanted to post this thread and see if I could show an example of my truck done and answer any questions people might have about the product/process.
For those of you that don't know, Plasti Dip is a rubber like coating that comes in a variety of colors, metallics, finishes, and what not that can be thinned out and be applied to really just about anything, similar to standard automotive paint. This color is my custom blend of matte finish Antique Silver Metallic. It also comes in gloss, satin, etc. The benefit of this stuff is that it's durable, cheap, looks great if you take your time just like any other paint, and above all, it is removable like a vinyl wrap when you are tired of the color or want a different look. Beneficial for me since it's my daily driver and it looks good without having to worry about someone at the university hurting an expensive paint job. That's all the detail I will go into in this first post in case anyone really doesn't care :lol: But feel free to post any questions or comments and I'll be happy to answer them for you. Just trying to spread the info and provide info for anyone interested. Here's a few pics, pardon the load in the bed. Plus my girlfriend always has to grab a pic in it after driving it hard in the desert :metal: |
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Whats the cost and how do you apply it?
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Turned out nice.... I like it
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Always seen this on newer, sleeker body lines. Didn't think it would do well on our trucks with the drip rail and other things. Glad to know it can be done. Looks great!
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More info on both! Lol..... Truck and girlfriend.
She has to be cool she likes these old trucks!:metal::metal::metal: |
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sawthis product on a you tube video. do you have any samples of the metal flake ? was thinking od flaking the roof of my truck. with plasti dip it gives me a chance to make sure i want it done permament.
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Very interesting. Tell us more please.
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I never would have thought of Idaho having deserts, so I googled it. Weird.
Cool truck. 67's are the best ;) |
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And yeah, tell us more. I am interested in this as well! |
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looks good. how does it seal against the elements? will it cause more issues (rust bubbles underneath) id left on for a long time? i was told that wraps are very difficult to remove and advised on not wrapping my truck
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Alright, awesome, we have interest. I'll kind of break these into separate posts as they come. To start us off,
Cost and Application So the benefit, as I mentioned, of this product is cost. I'm going to start off by posting the link to a company's website: https://www.dipyourcar.com/ I would coin these guys with truly turning the product known as Plasti Dip into an automotive goldmine. They, and their forum, are a great resource for all things "Dip". Now I believe that Plasti Dip targets DIY'ers and guys (and gals of course) who like to do things themselves, so they offer their "Pro Car Kit" that comes in a variety of included color's and amounts of each. For a larger vehicle with a standard color (black, red, etc) I would probably look towards their 5 gallon kit. This not only includes the paint, but an airless hvlp sprayer, masking tape, paper, mixing wand, cleaner, basically everything you need to spray a vehicle. Cost for their largest kit: $435.00 USD, but don't stop reading yet. That price is truly what grabbed my attention, even if I just wanted to experiment with it. I don't truly know exactly how many gallons of their dip it takes to do a vehicle such as ours since I went a different route, which I will explain in a bit. But for a kit that is supposed to cover a large truck/SUV, I believe that is a good starting point. Now I did it differently. I wanted something a bit different and that's where Plasti Dip's flexibility comes in. I bought clear Plasti Dip, unthinned (DipYourCar sells it prethinned 50/50 with a thinner mix) from http://www.awarehousefull.com/ and thinned it myself 50/50 with Naptha (bought at Home Depot). I then mixed Antique Silver Metallic pigment into the clear until I reached my desired look (This is where DipYourCar's forum came in). I also bought the sprayer separately. Doing it this way I saved a great deal of money while still ending up with more dip than if I had bought the kit. However, If you aren't feeling that adventurous, their kits are great as well. As a side note, because the pigment I used was not completely opaque, and I had different shades of contrasting primer on the truck throughout, it took me several more coats and a couple more gallons than if you were to do a standard solid color. Just something to keep in mind if you want a custom metallic color. Application is similar to standard paint. It can be applied with a normal HVLP, compressor driven gun as well. The key is to lay it on light, for the first couple of layers, then more thick as you go to let it flow and even out. It takes several coats for complete coverage, probably a minimum of 5-6 for a specific reason. The thicker you put it on (within reason), the tougher it is, and the easier it is to peel off in one piece if and when you so choose to. As a disclaimer, I'm not an expert in this stuff and don't claim to be. But I have found it to be a great product with a great supporting community behind it. |
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Thanks for the compliments guys.
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I see you had it out in the desert.... how does this stuff hold up to road grime? What happens if a rock chips it? I can just imagine getting a chip in this and then the air working its way under it. Ive never seen the product in person though so I have no clue
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A lot of people, probably the vast majority, actually use this on wheels to recolor them. That would be a high abuse area, and from what I've seen, it even holds up very well there. |
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Feel free to post any and all questions guys, that way I have a direction to talk towards and answer questions about.
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I have a couple of questions for you,
how is the finish? smooth or slightly textured? and does it clean well? |
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Clean-ability also depends on the finish, as well as the color. A matte finish, just like a matte paint, will tend to be a bit harder to clean. This is usually only noticeable on really bright colors though, like white. This silver is a fairly mid-tone color, and I have yet to have something that didn't come off with a basic washing. For matte white, the community seems to say that it is a bit more susceptible to staining, and recommends a Plasti Dip satin or gloss clear coat to ensure easy removal of contaminants. |
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Here are a couple of examples of some different colors in gloss and matte.
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I used plasti dip on some old rims once. It turned out real nice. Made the rims look new.
I plan to use it on the next C10 truck I buy. Real good stuff. |
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Dude!!! I love that you did this. I have wanted to dip a car for a long time and I've also wondered how it would do on one of these trucks. The first truck I looked at buying was 2 different colors and I thought that'd be a perfect dip truck.
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Dip is great... Both mine... the red still needed two more coats to complete at this point. Its durable, washable and looks cool. You can buy the expensive kits for other colors, or just buy rattle cans and spray yourself. You need to really know what your doing with rattle cans, my black Subie was complete and awesome! Black coupe is green underneath and red sedan was red..
BTW four door Subie has white dipped wheels as well... Total cost per car with paper, tape and 20 cans of dip under $175 Eric (Evaded) http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps28eca893.jpg |
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very good info, thanks for sharing
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Very cool. I've read a lot about plasti-dip but never would have guessed painters out here in Idaho will actually be willing to use that stuff. Neat to see you in Nampa. Where did you go to get it done?
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I'll have to keep this in mind when it comes time for paint.
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... What did you do for surface prep before putting the Plasti Dip on. ... I know with paint that everything has to be right or it is not good. ... maybe dip is a lot more forgiving prep wise. ............ I have a 2 wheel trailer I may do/experiment with ........time will tell....... thanks,kent
... p.s ...my last an only vehicle paint project I did/helped with was my GTO, in highschool shop class 30+ yrs ago, ...and a classmate with a steadier hand than me sprayed it.......time flys:lol: |
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Subscribed! New to me.
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Looks great but I always worry about the one guy who decides to be funny and pull a nice sized spot off.
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Crazy how times have changed, I was always the kid my friends would come to for help on their rides, except now they're mostly Hondas instead of American muscle... Oh well... Quote:
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Interesting. Something I might consider on a low budget ride.
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Another thing it's good for is for those whose trucks are primered, maybe body work done, even ready for paint, but they just aren't ready/can't paint it quite yet. This is a great way to get a top coat on everything, seal out the elements so the primer doesn't absorb water, and still have it look awesome.
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Looks great! I've done 5-6 sets of wheels but haven't worked up to doing the C-10 yet. Did you do your door jams, etc.?
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Thanks! I didn't actually. I was on a tight deadline trying to get it done before a show and didn't have time to do so. But all the jambs are flat black, and I like the contrast when you open the door, so will probably leave it that way for a while.
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This is what I was thinking about doing, but not sure what to do about the inside of the bed. It seems durable enough for going down the road, but I doubt you can use it in the bed if you plan to haul anything.
If I can figure out what to do about the bed I might be sold Quote:
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Yah that is one drawback, you'd have to be careful if you sprayed the inner bed. Depending on what you put back there, it might not hold up to well. What I did was mask off the inside of the bed, right on the line where the bed rails take a 90 and turn into the bed walls. Then when I sprayed, I feathered the edge so despite Plasti Dip's slight thickness, it's nice and smooth. Then you could go back (or do it in the first place) and paint it even temporarily. My inner bed is black and the contrast with the silver looks pretty good so I left the bed for now, at least until I get to replacing the wood.
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How well does it do with heat? In Texas, it gets HOT for long periods of time and I'm wondering if this stuff will hold up over time or loose its adhesion after 30 days of 100+ and 100% humidity. Does the engine heat on the hood affect it much or discolor it? Would it hold up well in the inner fenders? I've been planning on rubberizing or bed lining the inner fenders of my truck but this stuff appears to be less expensive.
The truck looks great though. And thank you for the informative write up. |
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This past summer in Idaho has been one of the hottest in quite a while, breaking 100 easily. I have had no problems at all in the heat. There are guys who paint their exhaust tips with this stuff so it's pretty heat resistant. Hood looks great, in fact the rest of the vehicle looks just like the day I painted it. No fading, no discoloration, nothing. Temperature within reason doesn't seem to touch it.
I probably wouldn't use it for the underside of the inner fenders. While it may hold up just fine, that is a lot of abuse. Keep in mind this stuff is designed to be removable, so it doesn't dry rock hard, and therefore is susceptible to tearing. I would probably stick to at least under body coating for the inner fenders. |
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I'm actually doing the same on my truck, as a temporary paint job until I can tackle the bodywork. The stuff is awesome, really easy, cheap and holds up really well. As some have said it dries to a rubbery type finish so it holds up really well to dirt and debris. As long as your surface is nice, clean and smooth underneath it will be smooth on top.
As far as heat goes, a lot of the import guys use it for engine covers if that give you an idea of what it can take. Their website claims up to 200 degrees of heat resistance. Another note, you can use regular paint over the top and it will peel off with the plastidip should you change your mind. |
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Plasti Dip is definitely versatile and can be used just about anywhere in an automotive application. I can't speak to the top coating of Plasti Dip with paint, but I do know applying a standard automotive (or rattle can) clear coat over top of it does make it nearly impossible to remove the Dip should you so choose, so I would personally recommend against clearing it with anything other than a Plasti Dip gloss clear coat (or satin).
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I have seen some the videos on You Tube and they make it look fairly simple. I am sure it has some really cool applications, might try it on my wheels, and the underside of the hood, and maybe the interior. The possibilites are endless. :metal:
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Thanks for reminding me of plasti dip. I just started sanding my C10, or should I say my daughters C10. It has a crappy paint job and I was planning on doing the truck a little at a time due to time and money. It will be a high school truck so I don't want to put a nice paint job on it for HS parking lot abuse. I think this might be my best option until the truck comes back to me full time.
For those of you who start plasti dipping your C10's please post your pics. |
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