![]() |
Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Hey folks, after 14 years of sloowwww progress have finally gotten serious about getting this project off the ground. Posts of progress for now, suggestions always welcome.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
5 Attachment(s)
Here is where it sits so far, I purchase a 79 donor for the sheet metal as it was in much better shape.
Also came with a complete fairly new exhaust which I needed and the amount I paid for the truck is what the exhaust would have cost me anyway. Decent b&m shifter in there too. sells for 300 on summit so let's see if I can't recoup some of my cost. Box and rear bumber off, wire wheeled the frame and did the rear section with kbs rust seal. Took a long darn time. Didn't like the gloss so I covered with flat black and I like how it looks now. Next up BRAKES.... need new drums or a disc conversion... thoughts??? I need it to be inexpensive or wifey will kill me.. Keep in mind this is Canada and right now the dollar sucks in relation to the US and auto parts here are crazy expensive. |
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Howdy neighbour! Nice work on the chassis. About the brakes, as nice as rear discs are, they are expensive in the end. I did the conversion on my 64, and what cost a lot was keeping a functioning parking brake. Without the parking brake, the cost falls, but still not to the level of new drums, shoes, cylinders. So if it were me, I'd keep the drums and apply those funds somewhere else in the project.
Let me know what leftovers you have from the 79, I might be interested. |
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Your Big 10's rear drum brakes will work just fine, especially if you have the 2-3/4" wide shoes. Just make sure the shoes have the same arc as the drums, so 100% of the shoe surface contacts the drums. Worst case, new drums and good quality shoes are not too expensive, I like Raybestos or Wagner drums and the AC Delco riveted shoes. Do not let the parts store sell you cheap drums that are not finned.
On another note, since 1971, C-10 front disc brakes have been more than adequate. Even the light duty versions from the mid 80s with thinner rotors worked fine. Again, use name brand parts. I like Wagner ThermoQuiet pads. |
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
I wish. Priced out new drums, shoes, wheel cylinders and the spring kit. Up here in the great North 700 was the cheapest I could find. Wholesale pricing at napa... Tried to order from rockauto, Good prices then shipping kicked in. Set of drums 90 bucks. 120 to ship to Canada. Ugh.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
I hear ya on the shipping. You'll laugh, but I bought new drums for my c10 from crappy tire for about $60 a side. But that was nearly 20 years ago, and my brakes are the smaller 11x2. 700 seems really high, though.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
The 79 has a beauty set of the 11 x 2 but I don't really want to down grade. Anybody know what other vehicles ran the bigger brakes. Maybe I can steal a set from pick a part and get them turned.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Well I caved and bought a new set of brakes from auto value and napa locally. With the price of shipping from the states and the value of our dollar now it worked out almost the same. All in I managed to get the rear setup for about $400, Drums had the most money in 200 bucks for 2. Oh well time to prep and paint em black.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Good stuff. Who wants to cheap out on brakes.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
I suppose it's the difference between cheaping out and paying more than I need to for the same parts.
Anyways because the one side completely destroyed itself I need all parts. I can't seem to locate the seperator bar, associated spring and parking brake lever. Any ideas on part numbers for these. Or is this a necessary trip to the pick n pull? |
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
cool build, more pics please, and did you paint that frame in the winter?
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
I guess it was technicaly winter but it has been a funny year. It's been in the 20s (about 70° F for those in the US) multiple times since January. I used Kbs rust seal and it needs 13 plus.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
1 Attachment(s)
Well, what a pain to find a brake strut, spreader bar, or whatever other name they are called. No local parts house (napa, auto value, bumper to bumper) had a listing for this thing. My one side had all parts gone except the wheel cylinder. Anyways after multiple days searching, including a trip to the pick n pull to find one damaged after dismantle. Vehicle covered in mud and deep in water. yay.
Manufactured by Dorman HELP! line. Part 21147 hopefully should have it Saturday as it was a special order. Who would have though such a simple piece of iron could cause so much trouble. |
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
More cleaning.... I figured since I made the frame look pretty I should make everything else on the bottom look pretty as well.
New drums - Flat black with high temp paint and cured. Cleaned up what I could as it sat on the little 3 ton jack stands. Removed the first shock absorber. No Problem. Second one what a pain in the but.... Needed to cut off wheel for that one. Only problem, bought the grinding wheel instead. Oh well just take a bit longer. Finally got it out. Proceed to getting the rear end painted - need bigger jack stands. Back to the good old princess auto. Some nice 12 ton stands that get pretty darn high. Now I can support the frame and remove the leafs. SNOW... REALLY.... Was hoping for a productive weekend. Let's hope for just a few flakes. I have some pictures to upload but I am getting some kind of security token error. So we shall see about that later |
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
3 Attachment(s)
Ok so must be some kind of bug with one of my pictures... Oh well you don't get to see the carnage of how I ended the shock absorber.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
1 Attachment(s)
More goodies. I got some 3M vinyl with wood grain finish in the mail today. The plan is to use it to refresh the bed rails that came factory on the truck. Those things are pricey to buy new so I hope this touch up works good.
Originally when building this truck I was going to lower it, make it a speed demon. Many big plans for a 16 year old when I was first starting the build. Now more mature I suppose, this was my old man's truck he bought it new. I now am planning to restore it back to the original look (although still with some speed. hehehe) |
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
LOL snow.. Its what is keeping me from completing my dana44 rebuild LOL.
Looks like you got a good project on your hands. |
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
4 Attachment(s)
Got the rear unbolted and started to clean it up. Hopefully it is warm enough tomorrow for the rust seal. I already did the wheel bearings and seals and don't really want to pull the axles for that reason. I shall see how clean I can get it without having to take the brake backing plate off.
Till next time. |
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
2 Attachment(s)
nice fresh paint on the rear, and I even had a helper with the back plates.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Nice start! You need to post up a bunch of "before" pics first or we won't know if you actually did anything.:lol: Just kidding, but it would be nice to see what you're starting with. I like the theme you picked, it's perfect for fixing up your dad's old truck.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
5 Attachment(s)
Quote:
I did just go an snap a few of the current state of shall we say issues. |
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
2 Attachment(s)
As for the rest of the drive train that is where I started and then it sat for some time in that state.
383 stroker world s/r torqer heads ported/polished decent cam (can't rem the specs right now) summit 750 cfm carb 5.7" I beam rods with the cap screws for clearance on the crank SCAT crank flat pistons (federal mogul I think had a lightning bolt cut out of the special coating on the side) and if I remember correctly about a 10:1 comp ratio Premium gas is required anyway. Had the deck blocked, honed, magna fluxed and all that other good stuff at the local machine shop. put a shift kit in the th400 and added an aux tranny cooler Ran braided lines for tranny cooler and fuel - will get close up pics of that when I move the front clip over. |
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
That's not too bad, I was wondering how it would look surviving in AB. Given similar year model, half or better look the same here in Alabama.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Nice job on the axle! Snow doesn't seem to be serious either yesterday or today.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
1 Attachment(s)
Spoke too soon about the axle. I put the second coat on and may have cooled down too much or too much moisture. Not sure but I sanded it all away to start again.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
darn snow is delaying the repainting. all sanded away the gross finish though.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
nice save,warming up later this week they say
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
2 Attachment(s)
Nice weather is back so I stripped back down the axle and treated it again for kbs rust blast. Should be warm enough tomorrow to get the thing painted. Now let's try not to goof it up again... .
On another note I finally got all my brake parts, even the really difficult to track down ones. First the brake bar. Dorman help 21147 three different parts guys couldn't find this in their computer. Thank you google. Second brake shoe guide - dorman help 13896 similar experience to above. Both had to be ordered and were not regularly stocked. Finally the parking brake lever, no after market manufacturer. Again thanks to google and way too much time I was able to get a gm part number 15594178 for the rh lever (lh is different number but I have it still) Nothing was located in Canada and took two weeks to get here from the USA at the local Chevy dealer. $25 bucks. Oh well leaf spring bushing next. Remount the rear end. And finally move the box over from the donor... I was thinking of using rust seal on the underside of the box. THOUGHTS? |
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Success..... The rear is nicely painted in rust seal and topcoated with a princess auto spray bomb flat black for uv stability. I like how the gloss underneath the flat looks.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Wow, did you get the paint done yesterday? The weather here was pretty cool.
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
|
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
3 Attachment(s)
Well who would have thought a couple little bolts would be such a pain... removing the leafs on the drivers side they seem to have permanently rusted themselves to the bushing... Trusty angle grinder and a cut off disc took car of them but took way longer then I would have liked.
In order to save some money or so I thought I figured i would spray bomb the springs rather than use the kbs rust seal. I finished the first one with primer and flat black anti rust. One can of primer and 2 of paint later may have been pretty close to the same cost to rust seal it. I did however test out the anti rust spray paint on another unit and it seemed to hold up pretty good. I shall post a pic of them all finished tomorrow as it is now too dark. |
Re: Restoring 1980 C10 big ten.
Ahh good ole Princess Auto paint.. Potent smell but sticks to everything and coats well.
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:57 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2025 67-72chevytrucks.com