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Truck Won't Start No Sounds No Noises Nothing
apologies for yet another truck won't start thread, hope you can walk me through troubleshooting this
1974 GMC 1500 1/2 ton V8 350 4 spd manual on the floor, brand new ProForm HEI dizzy installed months ago and working fine, not sure how old the starter is or the alternator this is a daily driver (sort of) I drove it in to the garage couple days later it won't start FYI I have a neutral / clutch pedal switch bypass on the purple wire under the dash that the previous owner put in and it's been there and working fine for years PROBLEM - turn the key, the dummy BRAKE red light goes on the dash but the car makes absolutely no sound, no clicking no vrooming nothing, heater fan turns on and blows, wipers work, headlights work, horn does not but that's because it's broken STEP 1 - Battery (well mine wise 3 years old and the wrong group size so I raplaced it with a brand new one, brought it home fully charged) truck still won't start with the new battery same issue STEP 2 - Fuses, all look good STEP 3 - ? Starter? I don't think I have power going to the purple wire that goes to the starter, I put a test light on it and had my son turn the key and the light does not turn on How can I bypass the ignition switch in the steering column and just jump start the thing from the bulk head connector? |
Re: Truck Won't Start No Sounds No Noises Nothing
Hey Gregski
You're doing well with the troubleshooting so far. Here's what we know: Ignition switch is still getting power and providing power to ignition hot devices. Battery has at least some power. No power on the purple wire is definitely a problem. The purple wire provides power to the solenoid on the starter (but not the starting power itself). When the solenoid pulls in, it closes a much larger contact that actually gets the starter cranking. So, there's a break in the purple wire between the ignition switch and the starter. There's a slim chance that the ignition switch starting contacts are faulty, but I wouldn't start there. Now, if you just want to start the truck, put the switch in Run, then jumper a wire from the purple wire terminal on the starter to +12. You can do this with a screwdriver, but I don't like that method myself. Of course, make sure you aren't in gear, because there's no interlocks now! As for fixing the real problem, use your probe light, and start at the wire at the ignition connector on the steering column. Keep probing along until you find where the wire is broken. |
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Your problem is consistent with the last tooth on the sector gear in the steering column being broken. That last tooth is what lets the ignition cylinder move the ignition switch to the start position.
I bypassed mine after it broke the 3rd time. Used a push button switch to bypass the start switch on the ignition switch. |
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Yup, mine did the same exact thing until that little toothy gear piece completely snapped in half.
I could get buzzers, lights, everything going but my starter. It started off as a slow break where I would have to wiggle the key and column to get it to start, as well as turn the key as far as it would go. Before it completely went I could turn the accesories on without the key. |
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trying to simplify the troubleshooting process, so I made this diagram maybe it helps somebody out, it brushes aside all the extra wires and just says, here this is how power comes in to our trucks, no thrills about it, correct me if I am wrong, but it basically goes battery to starter to fuse box, so it relays through the starter for some reason, maybe that's how all cars work I don't know, I was surprised to find out and learn that myself
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Use your test light to check for power at the previously mentioned jumper wire at the clutch switch. In the start position you should have power on both sides of the jumper.
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went out to O'Reillys and for $20 bucks picked up this BOSCH remote starter, the kid at the counter goes what year is your vehicle, make, model... you know the drill, I told him the part number and Game Over it was hanging on the wall behind him but too low for me to see over the counter
always wanted one of these, but it is a bear to put on since the starter is tucked away under the car, we are not dealing with the solenoid on the fender like god intended here with nice long studs sticking out, enuff ranting, did the truck start with this bypass, YES, yes it did, fired right up ok, we are not out of the woods just yet, but wanted to give you all an update where I am at and thank you all for your advice, now the troubleshooting begins |
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So I guess its confirmed it to be that pewter ignition slider inside the steering column?
Thay sucker is a MONSTER to get to. Gotta pull the wheel, locking plate, turn signal switch and arm, remove three screws and remove the column cover and the peice will be on the left hand side covered with a dust shield plate. |
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after a bit of cleaning and reassembly of the ignition switch and the push rod I think I found the problem
I went to turn the key again and the rod would not move up and down, I thought what the heck there may be even more crud inside the column to get out |
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ok, well lets go on a journey of a thousand pictures
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still going...
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ok not sure if this alumininum (or is it?) piece at the end of the push rod is broken or if it just looks like that
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Just reading over this.. I know you simplied your wiring diagram up top but your starter should have 2 wires plus the heavy guage wire for the battery on your starter.
The 2 wires will lead to the junction block on the firewall and alternator and the 3rd goes to the battery. From that there should be a purple wire which feeds from the terminal at the 3 position closest to the block which then goes to the bulkhead connector and into the igition switch. Its the purple wire which allows the truck to energize the starter to properly start. |
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Well you got farther than I did that's for sure! I got the cover off before I finally gave up and had it towed.
Mine looked like a tuning fork, yours obviously is not the same one as mine. BTW, diggin the fact your still rocking the original radio! |
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right then, so after finding a long philips screw driver I pressed on, and managed to separate the black round steering shaft / column housing like so in order to finally extract the rest of the key cylinder and the damaged plastic spector gear (one tooth missing)
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I started looking at your column disassembly pictures and thought you stole some of mine from last summer when I had the little forked thingie (technical term) at the end of the lock cylinder break. I bastardized a salvage yard column and combined parts from the two to get Green Jeans back on the road. Only way I knew the pictures weren't mine were your original type radio staring back at me... either that, or you're a master at photoshop and waste your talents on photoshopping old radios into the backgrounds of other people's pictures. Either way, well done sir!
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ok, so two days later we arrive at the holy grail a busted ignition lock cylinder
so after all my electrical troubleshooting it is a mechanical part that failed well I guess out of all the places the truck could have given up the ghost inside our garage was the best place, nobody hurt, nobody got stranded |
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ordered a new Sector Gear [ahem] Ignition Switch Actuator from NAPA auto parts, no other parts house had it, and even NAPA has to ship it from one of their main warehouses in another city
it's a hard to find part, so sharing as much detail as I can Part Number: NOE 7301638 Ignition Switch Actuator |
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also 83221 in motormite/help/dorman
OEM Part # 7827089, 7810020 i keep it on the shelf at store where i work |
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i think the little gear wheel was metal in my 82, i wonder when they switched? also i remember it being a huge PITA to get that thing assembled properly. It kept being one tooth off and would not allow me to turn the key far enough to start the truck. lots of stubbornness and yelling got it done though lol.
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Crow burlingame auto parts also known as Bumper to Bumper auto parts been there 4 years now
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ok, so NAPA called today and said my Spector gear was in, so I drove up there and they would not give it to me without a receipt, and it was even the same man at the counter that I ordered it from
let me guess they have tons of people walking in there hoping to score a FREE $10 dollar plastic spector gear for a '74 GMC which they just happen to know was ordered from Fresno (end of rant) so lets look at the new vs the old, I decided not to use the new rack (the shinny metal stick) as it was a bit different from mine |
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OK, so put the steering column back together enuff to where I can try turning the key and progress, now the starter clicks but I guess I drained the battery goofing around so I am charging it and will try again in a couple hours or tomorrow morning
thank you all who have helped |
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so let the battery charge over night with both leads (positive and negative) disconnected from the vehicle so nothing could drain it
tried to start it after work, and it would click but not turn over, tried it with the battery charger on boost and still same thing, tried it with the remote start switch connected straight to the starter and solenoid and still same thing so took the starter off and tested it the way my daddy showed me, well he didn't have a fancy remote start switch like me but you get the idea, you basically Captain Morgan it by holding it down with your foot, and see what happens, in my case the Borax (LOL) pops out but nothing spins so look out AutoZone here comes The Greg with two $20 dollar bills |
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OK, so picked up a brand new starter from O'Reilly's I kid you not it says BesTest on it, so you may have the best starter but I have the bestest, LOL
bolted it up and the truck fired on the first try and finally got the steering column all put back together, even got the horn working this time thank you all for your help, glad this March Madness is over, hee hee |
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Gregski, was there some trick to get the rack and sector gear reassembled and aligned correctly?
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the key (pun intended) is to get it to slide full range of motion with just your hands once the rack and gear are assembled, you should see how that metal coat hanger rod will move it up and down, and if its not right you will know |
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You're absolutely right Gregski. Part of that logic is making sure that you are feeding the rack in from the right direction. Gotta remember that the lock cylinder angles forward, and that where the rod fits into the rack points back. In my defense, my whole column was apart so orientation was not so obvious :lol:
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