question about lowering the front
 

Hi guys, I have a 84 C10 that I want to lower some. Thinking about 3 inches in the front, My question is which why have you guys done this spring or spindles? Thanks in advance

Re: question about lowering the front
 

I think drop spindles 2.5 or 3 inches should be the first step in dropping it. Then if you want it a bit lower you can trim your springs if they are not wore out or get lowering springs to make up the difference.

Re: question about lowering the front
 

Spindles are the best way as it leave all the stock geometry in place. However, some 3" spindles can interfere with smaller wheels. I personally prefer 2.5" spindles and cutting 1 full coil from stock springs (approximately 2") for a total of 4.5" drop, and matches the axle flip kits perfectly IMO.

Re: question about lowering the front
 

I have 3" spindles. Get 2.5" spindles.

And yeah - cut that coil too.

Re: question about lowering the front
 

78C10 short step...I flipped the back, and put 2.5" spindles on the front, with 2" springs. My truck has a little rake to it, and the tires rub on the inner fenders occaisionally...if i did it again i would use the 2.5 spindles, and probably just cut a coil off my stock coils...

Re: question about lowering the front
 

Get spindles over springs as spindles lower the body an springs changes geometry of suspension etc

Re: question about lowering the front
 

Curious why you suggest 2 1/2 over 3" spindles?

Re: question about lowering the front
 

As I understand it:

- You won't likely need to clearance the lower control arms to fit 15" rims (as I did).

- Less (or none) of the lower control arm hanging below the rim (not usually legal).

Re: question about lowering the front
 

Makes sense. He never said what size wheels so I wasn't thinking about that. Western chassis spindles claim to work with 15" steels and 3" drop. Can't speak on laws though.

Re: question about lowering the front
 

the only spindle that works with stock rallys is the western chassis I had them on my 84 all other spindles u have to clearance the control arm

Re: question about lowering the front
 

I want to run stock rally for know. I want a little rake don't like them sitting level. By cutting stock spring does it make it ride any different? and how low can the rear go without a c notch?

Re: question about lowering the front
 

I don't think you are going to need a notch at all. The pumpkin hits the bed floor before the axle tubes hit the frame.

I notched mine when I shortened the frame and flipped the axle, and I think notching the frame is a waste of time. And I ~haul~ things in my truck - the tubes don't hit where the frame used to be.

(although, on a hard turn, it's possible the tube might touch as the chassis rolls - lower it first, and decide later).

I did need shorter shocks even despite shock extenders, as the shocks were bottoming when fully loaded. I used 4WD front shocks in the back with the extenders I fabricated.

Re: question about lowering the front
 

This is not true. I have Early Classic 2.5" spindles and they clear my stock rally wheels just fine.

Re: question about lowering the front
 

Ok only 2 brand spindles will clear...

Re: question about lowering the front
 

Dont cut the stock spring...it will ride like crap....when ppl cut springs they buy stock big block springs an cut them an the ride is great. An u can go low as 6" in rear with no notch as long as u dont haul or tow anything

Re: question about lowering the front
 

What about Belltech and CPP? I find it hard to believe that 2 companies have this market locked down to themselves.

Re: question about lowering the front
 

I can verify belltech and mcgaughys spindles cause the rally wheels to rub on the lower control arms. It's not that you can't use these spindles with rally wheels, you just have to trim the lower control arms. Not a big deal

Re: question about lowering the front
 

ok Thanks guys. I'm just not sure how low to go. 3 front 4 rear or 4 front and 5 rear

Re: question about lowering the front
 

Not trying to be argumentative but that's not true, either.

I did about a dozen trucks that way, back in the day (plus my Chevelle).

Cut two coils on the blue truck.

Cut one and a half coils on the red truck. It has been a daily driver for 30 years and a quarter million miles with no issues. It is the most comfortable vehicle I own.

K

Re: question about lowering the front
 

I cut coils when in high school, and it works but I thought it made the front bounce more as the top coil is no longer a larger flat surface...
I followed bbc10s advice and I used a 2.5" western chassis spindle and 2" coils and a belltech rear 6" flip. If you want that low, that's the setup to use. Keep in mind mine has very little travel, like 2" in the front and rear before I'm hitting rear frame and front stock bump stops and front inner fenders. No fat girls, or three wheelers in the bed though. It works for weekend strolls...
As far as 15" wheels, the 2.5" spindle only clears the inside rim edge by 1/8", I had to cut off the clipped on wheel balance weights.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...sroxppfxx.jpeg

Re: question about lowering the front
 

Looks great!!!

Re: question about lowering the front
 

As mentioned above, most drop spindles will have slight clearance issues with 15" wheels if you are going to run them. I ordered some early classic ones a few months ago and the tech department said they did not rub.....GUESS WHAT!

2.5 drop spindles and 1" cut coil is the way I went.

Re: question about lowering the front
 

Thanks for posting Moose! What brand coils did you go with? Western Chassis? And did you notch the frame in the back? Cause 2" clearance in the rear is close for my uses.

Also, what sizes are your wheels? I like that stance! I haven't dropped my 84 yet so I'm still doing my research.

Rob

Re: question about lowering the front
 

I used western chassis coils. Belltech shocks. No shock extenders in the rear. Bought the notch. But didn't cut the frame yet. It does probably need to be done. But I haven't looked at the rear diff to bed clearance. The tires in that pic were 255/70/15 with 15x8 stock wheels. But now it has 20x9 all the way around with 255/45/20 and 295/40/20. Looks good. I wouldn't say it drives great as every good dip bottoms me out. Not sure if different shocks would be better or worse. But I did like the western chassis spindles. Just had to finish tapping out the dust cover bolt threads. And belltech has always been good on the flips. Avoid DJM.

My truck dropped about 4.5/6.5. And measures now 27" from ground to center of fenders. Tires were and are still 29" tall.

Re: question about lowering the front
 

Are you bottoming out the front or rear? Just wondering if you removed the bump stops.

Re: question about lowering the front
 

I didn't remove front bump stops as they probably help me from hitting the inner tubs hard. Just minor rubbing on front inner tubs. Rear axle is hitting pancake bump stops on frame rails. Factory frame bump stops and brackets I removed. There's only about 2" of travel there, and my truck is a big 10 so I have what should be a stiffer 8 pack leaf springs... Doesn't change the drop as the rear end sits on top of the leafs. I still got 6.5" of drop out of it if I remember correct.
And side note I only have one 16 gal tank, and spare tire removed so not much weight on my rear suspension. Not scaring anyone from this drop but don't plan to put anything in the bed. Or get a air shock like a helper bag maybe.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...psbkppbgau.jpg

Re: question about lowering the front
 

I agree. I've lowered over a dozen 63-87 C10's & used the cut coils/drop spindle combo. But, I will not cut more than 1-coil as the amount of drop exceeds the coils spring rate which def affects ride quality. If you need to cut more than 1-coil, you need a diff spring w/a higher rate to start with.


The more leafs in the spring pack, the greater the drop is dimensionally when flipping the axle from under the springs to on top of them.

For example.... Say five leafs = 3.5" & the axle tube OD = 3.0". 3.5 + 1.5 = 5".
Moving the axle tubes on top of the spring pack (flip kits) drops the truck the height of the spring pack + 1/2 the diameter of the axle tube. If you have a Big 10, you have a larger quantity of springs & therefore yield more drop. This is why some trucks only get 5" of drop while others can get 6" or more w/a flip kit.... It depends on how many leafs there are (my dually would have been 8" of drop w/a flip).

I also will not swap to shorter shocks unless that is the only option. Decreasing the shock stroke can also kill ride quality. Shock bracket relocation kits work better when/where possible (provided they maintain the OE geometry).

Re: question about lowering the front
 

3" spindles + 1-coil removed from the factory sbc/auto spec'd coils. Rear flip kit w/a HD towing package rated spring pack (pre-curser to the Heavy 10's) AND 2" shackles. Stock length shocks front & rear. Frame c-notched w/a home built AOL/Schrader set-up & ~30psi if loaded.

27" front tire OD; 29" rear tire OD (steelies).
No bed floor mods & it buzzed the OE front wells on big dips. Was much worse w/the 28" tall 20's when I put them on for a night @ Kellers...

Re: question about lowering the front
 

Yes your Early Classic 2.5" spindles clear a stock rally wheel. ALL 2.5" spindles will clear a rally wheel. The Western Chassis is the only 3" spindle that will clear 15x8 rally wheels. Not correct at all. As mentioned above many of us have cut many sets of stock springs and enjoyed a much sportier ride than the stock mushy springs. Do not cut more than one coil and never get them to hot. Another option is the C20 spring. I'm told by an experienced mechanic that they ride even better than the cut C10 coil.

Re: question about lowering the front
 

SCOTI your number of leafs to flip math is correct. What I meant to say is because my HD leafs are probably stiffer vs. a c10 four pack of leafs, I assume with stiffer leafs there is less squat or spring with dips. Where as a c10 may not amount to as much measurable drop with less leafs, but if the top leaf has the same radius as my top leaf that still puts your axle as close or closer to the frame as mine as they both sit on that top leaf, and the c10 leaf pack may have more squat or spring in dips, thus more reason to c notch...??? Just a theory I have not seen a c10 flip clearances vs my big 10.

All in all you cant say that a big 10 will sit lower than a c10 when done, as their leaf spring radius may be different as to how far that top leaf is from the frame on both trucks. More measureable drop yes, but the HD big 10 may have sat higher to begin with. The flips are designed to give you 6" of drop on a c10. Belltech told me not to put it on a big 10 nor would they take it back because they had no R&D to reference how much it would drop. But I was lucky it worked and only gave me a 6.25"-6.5" measurable drop.

All theory, and just putting it out there my drop involves a HD 8 pack leafs

Re: question about lowering the front
 

SCOTI, my belltech 2-4" drop shocks up front and 4-6" rear shocks seem soft and springy on the truck. Or maybe its more rebound than normal?
With only 2" of actual coil spring drop, you think its better to leave on the stock shocks, and possibly stock shocks on the rear with shock extenders with 6.5" flip?

Re: question about lowering the front
 

CPP spindles on my 77 C10 installed with no modification to the control arms with 15 inch rallyes. The issue I ran into was with the brake line, i had to modify the spindle to rotate them so they cleared

Re: question about lowering the front
 

I keep them as long as possible so I measure each combo & go from there. My 68 trucks front end was done similarly for the drop & I used spec'd replacement shocks w/o issue. On my 74, the travel length was a little less so I relocated the upper mount location higher up on the frame (I gained 1.5" IIRC) & used spec'd replacement shocks w/o issue.

I use the rear lower shock extension brackets on leaf set-ups.

Re: question about lowering the front
 

I get what your saying. With the trucks I've done, the standard I go by was the lighter duty trucks w/fewer leafs typically yielded slightly less drop vs the 8+ leaf pack equipped trucks.