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Looking For A Radiator
Well my stock 4 row developed a leak. Actually a couple of them. So I'm either going to get it fixed or get a new one,
how much is it for places to fix pinholes on a radiator? If that isnt the way I go and decide to get a new one, who sells a brass/copper radiator (4 row) inexpensivley? I see them on ClassicParts and Brothers for like 500. Holy crap. Thats insane. I dont want an aluminum. I'd rather have stock style. |
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LockDoc |
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Rockauto
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If your handy with a propane or butane torch you can make most repairs at home. Acid flux and 60/40 lead/tin solder and your in business. You can google "radiator repair pics" and get some ideas on how to approach a repair. I like the little refillable butane torches for pin pointing the heat. I use it soldering and for heat shrink tubing. If your leak is visible like a crack or split in a crossover, use a toothbrush sized wire brush to clean the paint and shine the copper. Smear some acid flux on the crack, use a pair of needle nosed pliers to close the crack. Now your ready to apply the heat, a dab or two of solder and your done. "Nothing fancy" ;)
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I just purchased a 4 core for mine. The manufacturer is called Northern. They are made in Willmar Minnesota. Our diesel mechanic has an account with them. $315 I had to modify the rubber inserts.
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i have a harrison 4core for a 4speed truck, i cant decifer the metal tag. didnt leak but to restore it they wanted like 500.00! (recore)
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I got mine from Oreilly auto parts for around a couple of hundred bucks, lifetime warranty and metal not plastic
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I've had them repaired in the past. It's usually a fair ( cheap ) price and in my experience, worth the wait for the savings. If you immediately pull it and take it to a shop, your turnaround time will approach the same as ordering new online. Plus you'll save bookoo buck!
-klb |
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Rock auto you can get a direct fit 4 row for about $130 and fits like the original.
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You can patch up a 40 something year radiator and may luck out. Or you could have to pull it again annd again fixing leaks. I would get a new one.
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some of the 1973--87 4 core radiators are the same so are the 3 core Might want to look into them.if they are not and the tank is different.Just go to the radiator shop and have your tanks swapped
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I bought a brass and copper 4 row radiator from Rock Auto last year. I haven't used it as it sits up too high but I am going to hang onto it. It was on closeout and priced cheap, let me try and find the link.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/vis...,radiator,2172 I am hanging onto my original radiator and later on I am getting it recored. I ground out the rivets holding my 4-row lower radiator brackets to the core support, I did that so I could use machine screws to bolt the brackets back in. That way I could replace those with the smaller brackets and put my recored radiator back in if I so decided. |
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I bought mine from Auto City Classics and switched from a 4 core to a 2 core. Check them out..
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JohnR has one for sale in parts-I was gonna buy it but exchange rate kills me
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=739222 |
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Now in my case, one of the lower retainer brackets had been smashed in, making that side a 3 row radiator bracket. That kept it from fitting and made it sit up even higher. I have since rectified that but not before I bought an all aluminum 3 row radiator. Originally, my truck had a 1 or 2 row radiator that didn't sit on lower brackets at all! It sat on a piece of long, thin rubber placed on that lower shelf of the core support. I haven't reassembled my front end yet, I could still put in that (all copper and brass) radiator if I wanted to. I don't need that much cooling with just a 250 I6 though. |
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Forgot to mention. Mathematically, a 2 row radiator with 1" or larger tubes should cool more efficiently than a 3 or 4 row radiator with smaller diameter tubes. Now, I've seen plenty of small tube 3 or 4 rows cool engines just fine depending on climate and use, so take it FWIW.
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Go to this post and read. Lot's of good info.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...39#post7888239 :gmc2: |
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I just discovered my radiator is leaking also. Already removed and am now trying to decide if I want to fix it or just get a replacement. There's a reputable radiator guy here in town and my gut says take it to him. However, does anyone have any experience with the ones that Wes offers on his site? $389 for an OEM replacement is within my price range.
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I've been looking at radiators as well. I have the original 2 row and have been thinking about getting something that would cool a little better, I've got a question for you guys that have switched over to 4 row radiators. It looks like I'd need different upper mounts and to move the lower, but is the shroud the same or would I have to find a different one?
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Imho, do not scrap out your old brass and copper radiators. The tanks on the sides are what is valuable. I had a local guy rebuild mine with a heavy duty forklift core for a decent price.
Cools like a dream! I would not use a aluminum unit on these old trucks unless its a show piece. You cannot clean the insides of them with the radiator flushs on the market today. EPA had made most radiator flushs reduce the harmful environmental chemical to using Sodium Citrate as the main ingredient. In the days when these vehicles where developed we used a chemical called Oxalic Acid which is harmless to brass, copper, and cast iron. It eats red oxide, which is rust! |
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I've been using a champion aluminum radiator in my 72 for over a year now, works great. Just picked up a second one for my 68 as it sprung a leak the other day. Fixing a 40+ year old radiator is a game, it's only a matter of time before it leaks again.
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Well I removed both lower radiator retainer brackets and for the moment have 4-row replacements from GMC Paul's in there. I can remove those if I want and go back with my newly painted originals or some NOS 4 row's that I have coming. I have decided to go with my KKS all aluminum radiator for now.
My future plans are to get my original radiator recored and maybe put that in there if need be. The ability to remove and replace the lower radiator support brackets is a game changer of sorts. I think I will try and buy an OEM 4 row radiator or two for saving....getting those recored when I can to have for the future. |
Re: Looking For A Radiator
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Kyle Seal
, go to post #365 on my build thread. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...603726&page=15 My radiator and cooling works great and I just tested it in 110 degree heat for over 100 miles with great results. Water temp was rock solid at 202 degrees at 75mph. Also, the system now has 11k miles on it. I'm using Engineering Cooling Products radiator and they are around $219 and are direct drop-ins. Good stuff! https://www.speedcooling.com/1967_19..._Radiator.html :gmc2: |
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I love this thread. I'll be at that point soon.
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I ended up replacing my old radiator instead of repairing it. I went with a stock replacement and got it from Wes up at Classic Heartbeat for $370. Quick install and is working great. I still have the stock one, not sure what I will do with it.
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Can you comment on how your ECP radiator has held up through he summer?Is it still doing a good job as you reported in June? When you say " is a direct drop in" as you were dropping in where a 4 row originally was or did you have an original 2 row?? I found them and like the fact that its full 1" cooling tubes, fully welded and mimics the looks of the original with the stamped tanks....would probably disguise well with a shot of black paint. Looking to swap in where a 2 row was. thanks! |
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ttt
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I had to cowboy up and order one for my big block super. Seems to be a good bargain since I cannot have mine rebuilt for this much.
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I originally had a 2 row. I used a set of brackets from a vendor on here and put in a 4 row from O'Riellys. It cost right at $200 5-6 years ago. Direct fit and it looked high until I pushed the rad down into the rubber mounts good.
It's probably overkill for a 250 but I would rather have more than I need rather than less, just wish I could make money work that way. |
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