1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Recent purchase of a Chevy 86’ Silverado K10 short bed.

Photos of bring home the new to us truck,1986 Chevy Silverado, K10, short bed. Stopped for food, couple of photos. Has 1980’s Centerline alu wheels with 33x12:50 tires. GMC grill is replacement.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Got the truck home.

One owner until recently, second owner for a few months, then sold to us. Has life time maintenance records, receipts, owners booklets, and build sheet. Sold at Southern Chevrolet in Petersburg, Va. Truck is pretty much complete.
Mileage is 210K. The original motor is tired, along with transmission.

Attachment 2043436

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Cleaning a little bit of fender top down to crease, about 6” down from top. Looks like original paint, black primer showing through in few spots on the truck.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Not sure what long term plan is. Was not seriously looking for a truck like this at this time. We have a 1986 Chevy C10, short bed, step side.
Became aware of the K10 for sale, and being a short bed, 4WD, and high options, pretty much one owner, and mostly original, decided to buy as an opportunity.

Likely keep pretty much original, preserve along with some rust repairs. Make a nice driver.

Currently assessing condition, and fixing as a driver. Picking up parts needed for repairs.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Ordered a GM Performance base crate motor, to replace tired motor.

“Engine Assembly, Crate Engine, Chevy 350, 2-Piece Rear Main Seal, Each
(Mfr. #: 12681429)”

The engine description:
“ Gen 1 5.7L crate engines are excellent entry-level performance engines for older cars, trucks, and street rods. All of the parts in these engines are brand new. These Chevrolet Performance Goodwrench 5.7L/350 c.i.d. engines have approximately 8.5:1 compression with a horsepower rating of 249 hp and 304 ft.-lbs. of torque. These crate engines have a 4.00 in. bore and a 3.48 in. stroke with 4-bolt mains and 2-piece rear main seals.

Camshaft specifications are .390 in. intake lift and .410 in. exhaust lift. The open duration is 195 degrees intake and 202 degrees exhaust at .050 in. with a 112 degree lobe separation. The cylinder heads are cast iron with 1.94 in. intake valves and 1.50 in. exhaust valves, 76cc combustion chambers, and 7-bolt style exhaust flanges. These engines include painted valve covers, oil pans, and timing covers. They are drilled for both left hand and right hand dipsticks.”

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Good choice, where did you order from?

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Katrina/10

Gary,
Order from Summit, when ordered they had 32 in NV, non in OH.
Read some recent posts (July/Aug) about GM coming out with new crate motor
Manufactured and assembled in MO. Price that I looked Up was MUCH higher.
Discussion was they may be discontinuing the two lower priced crate motors???
Have no knowledge if so, however, decided to purchase one now in case. All ready have one in another truck and like it. Agree it is a great deal, with a warranty. For me it is a great starting point, and can later upgrade to more torque if needed.

Thanks,
Les

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

I was not aware of a new motor coming out, I may have to buy one soon, thanks!

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Gary,

Below is the GM description of their new 350 engine, from:

https://www.genuinegmparts.com/power...50-small-block

“ 350 ENGINE
Proudly machined and assembled in the USA.
Built in Springfield, MO, of globally sourced parts.

What's New

Cylinder head and block castings
Forged-steel crankshaft
All blocks are four-bolt main
All blocks are roller camshaft-ready
All blocks are mechanical fuel pump-capable (Gen1e has no camshaft eccentric)
Machined using state-of-the-art CNC
Machined and assembled in the USA
Three engine variants: Gen1 (P/N 12691671), Gen1e LD (P/N 12691673), and Gen1e HD (P/N 12691672)

What’s Included

All-new, non-remanufactured engine assembly
New valve covers, oil pan, timing cover, and harmonic balancer for convenient installation
End-of-line torque-to-turn, compression, and oil-pressure testing.”

You can search on on part number “ Gen1 (P/N 12691671)“ for price.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

My friend David in KS, found a gauge cluster with tach in a 87’ big grain truck for me. Appears to be in good condition, just a little dust. Double lucky for me it is the same style that came in 1/2 to 1 ton trucks. It also has 80 psi oil gauge (note: as per forum information, 80 psi gauge takes a different sending unit, GM part no longer serviced, need to use a “Standard” part.). The good news is this style of gauges with tach and gas gauge in lower left, has more parts available. Board member Ray has been helping me learn how to repair, install, and get any needed parts. Photos below are installed in big truck and removed taken by David. No cleaning yet, still has original KS dust. Plan is to clean/refurbish per forum suggestions. Likely need a replacement printed circuit.

Plan to post more information Ray provided.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

One more photo.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Cleaning some of the underside/certain parts of engine bay in preparation of installing power train soon. A few photos of cleaning underway, more to go. Truck has been in storage, bring home to clean, in this great spring weather we are having during winter. These photos are of 2nd day of cleaning. Firewall will get compounded to bring out color.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Man, we're ready for some spring weather here, got a little taste of it today. Good work on the cleaning, and the truck is looking nice. That's a pretty nice gauge setup that you have. Looks like it's primed for a little bit of tlc, but will sure be nice when you are done. I'm jealous.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

LT7A,
A lot late, thanks for reply!

Les

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Decided to go with a Chevrolet Performance crate motor “350 HO 330HP” long block, for repowering. Getting back on this project recently.
Photos of engine and intake manifold using. Additional photos of engine parts to follow.
Les

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Engine preparing for install, progress over the last few days. Need to rotate photos, working on it. Building different distributor WO/ vac advance this weekend. Engine needs a little more work, before ready to install. The trans and transfer case are rebuilt. Will install them once engine in in and running. More detailed photos of top of engine once new MSD distributor rebuilt WO/ vac advance, and completed revisions. Note: revisions needed from these photos.

Serpentine belt set up is from 1994 truck, fellow forum member provided the belt set up, and I reconditioned using ceramic black coating.

Les

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Transfer Case Detailed

The transfer case was rebuilt by a shop, and then spent large parts of two days detailing the aluminum case out side. Mostly done, still have non aluminum parts to finish. Case was partially cleaned by shop. Their was harden oxidation/debris on the out side especially along sharp angles in the case. Removal of these hard areas was by sanding block ( think 120 grit) in open areas, and smaller sand paper in enclosed areas ( lots of time). Did further cleaning and polishing, followed by wash with 409 cleaner. Not perfect, however, a lot more presentable.
Finally clear coated with satin clear.
Note: The number 316 hand written on TC is the truck build number on firewall.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

The transmission 700R4, adapter, and transfer case were assembled together, as one unit. Attached to a transmission floor Jack ( from Harbor Freight-worked good). Raised the front of truck up about 12 to 18 inches. Placed trans Jack w/TATC under truck, installed crossmember to bottom of frame ( new GM adapter mount installed- metric bolts). Lots of metric bolts, will list sizes later. Attached crossmember and adapter. Used two single hook racket straps to hold front of trans, as needed to remove trans jack, to allow floor jack to fit under front axle, for lowering. Installed engine as pictured with hood on. Install Headers and starter tomorrow. Also had to modify the clam shell motor mount, removing a “V” shaped piece in size next to fuel pump, about 1 inch. It is a performance version, little bigger then stock.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

[U]Headers Installed[U]

Today installed Headman long tube headers 1 5/8 size stainless steel, ceramic coated by local shop. Would have purchased 1 3/4 tube size, however, not available in SS. Will provide number soon. They installed really easy, just held in-place for now. Also, exit is above the bottom of frame rails! A few photos ( engine in photos is a mess with stuff non related all over it) of headers below. Also today adjusted the TC and transmission linkages. Re Plumed the fuel pump inlet line ( as mentioned before very tight area, if using a higher performance pump).

Starting to plan dual exhaust, first decision is collector diameter and length ( diameter calculation is tube-1 5/8 times street factor-1.68 gives diameter for hot street engine, about 2.75” diameter).

Note: Last photo included to show Headman 1 3/4” tube headers, 350 roller block engine, also 1986 chevy truck, C10, short bed step side w/ LY6 4 speed over drive trans.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

DUAL 2 1/2” EXHAUST

Tried dual exhaust systems for the 1986 K10, Walker/Thrush, they did not fit. Did not try 2.25, as want 2.5 mandrel. A couple of the issues are one, left side transmission 700R4 shift linkage that goes from the frame to the transmission - interference. For this issue your headers exit will effect how difficult an issue this is. These Headman Headers, which are very nice and exit higher up, are inline with the shift linkage. The right side has transfer case tight clearance, gas lines close to exhaust ( not sure of clearance specification, FAA has 2” for some applications). And dual fuel tank control/switch clearance along with several hoses.
Started from headers, added Headman collectors 2.5”, 18” long with 3.5” offset. Modified them along with other pipes. Made header to muffler pipe, by cut, fit, tac, confirm fit, weld.
Below are a few photos of the right side header to muffler, more to be posted soon. First two show Evolution 14/15” carbide saw, very nice square cuts, along with up to 45 degree cuts. And how pipes aligned and clamped for welds. 3 and 4 show a couple of welds, one is under the ring.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Exhaust Pipe Coated

The exhaust pipe between the header and muffler. First media blasted with 120 grit (first photo), solvent cleaned, and immediately ceramic coated ( low humidity). Photos 2 and 3 showing pipe ceramic spray coated and hanging to dry.

Photos 4 and 5, mufflers used, along with clamp at rear of muffler. These clamps were nice as they allow you to adjust muffler height as you fit/make pipe. In next post show clamp detail along with frame attach point. Plan to post sound clip to YouTube with reference here soon.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Muffler Rear Clamps

Photos of clamps at rear of mufflers, showing frame crossmember attached too.
Crossmember is in vicinity of rear spring front shackle.
Last three photos show pipe routing at transfer case, first two right side, last left side. Photos intended to show routing/location of pipes for clearance. Will post a few more photos of front routing soon.
Will post dimension of muffler below bottom of bed, they are pretty close, maybe a hand thickness below.
Underside of truck will be cleaned later when bed is removed, drive shafts cleaned when new gears installed.

Photos are with temporary clamps, positioning pipes/muffler. All will be cleaned up soon.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Muffler/Pipe Clamps Detail.
Last photo shows the U shaped part that attaches to frame with rubber bushing ( muffler clamp rod hooks into it). The rubber hole is reamed out a little for rod to fit.
All purchased from Summit.
Photos

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Photo, ream from both sides full depth of bit.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Next step is to start engine. Primed the engine oil for about a minute, while turning over the engine.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Photos of engine ready to start. Primed the Edelbrock carb, new with three syringe shots of fuel into each bowl. Started instantly before could get key all thenway on. Timed a little retarded, adjusted to 34 degrees, and adjusted idle mixture ( it was lean) reduced choke spring pressure. Did a few more carb adjustment during first two start ups.
Battery not charging, as had not fully installed wiring ( a switched 12 volt power supply w/ 500 ohm resistor in line). Photo of ACDELCO PT 2145 Wire connector for CS130 alternator ( 12 volt switched power w/resistor wire) when used in pre 1987 trucks. (modified PT 2145 yellow wire end going to switch power). Last photo shows the end to be modified. Ordered from Amazon, Summit only has a few.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Exhaust Pipe Around 700R4 Shift Linksge

The location of header exit will effect routing around 700R4 shift linkage (transmission to frame section). This application requires significant pipe routing at header exit to avoid the shift linkage. The header exit is well up within the frame.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Right Side Exhaust Pipe - Dual Tank Switch

Photo showing right side exhaust pipe, 2.5” mandrel bent routing around the transfer case and dual gas tank switch ( the switch set-up is dark, kind of hard to see). The bottom part of photo outside frame rail shows right side gas tank removed, along with new hoses that will connect to it.

Have not cleaned the under side of truck much, it has a lot of clay/dried mud everywhere, will do later. Currently just working on making it drivable, to get title transferred. This state requires an inspection ( including safe drivability ) for title transfer/registration.

All the extra fuel hose in bottom of photo, are for the right side fuel tank, not currently installed.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

CS Alternator 12 Volt Switched W/Resistor Wire

The photos below, show the wire connector ACDELCO PT2145 referenced in post #26 above.
Initial observation is that it charges very well.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

With the truck now starting and running, trailered to DMV for title and registration.

Next stop is trailer it back to transmission shop for correct adjustment of transmission cable to carb linkage. Not allowing transmission to shift out of first gear, until cable adjusted properly. Technician set cable, test drove, confirm operation correct.
Did a ride along, received information as transmission shifted through gears and lock-up. This version 700R4 incorporates a hydraulic activated converter lock-up.

Back home, unload truck off trailer. Time for first drive beyond driveway. Grandson took the wheel and off we went for about an hour. Back home and checked under truck, looks good.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Now up on lift, for differentials gear change to 4:10. Consideration choosing 4:10s, big tires, 33-12.50, and some in family wanting 35s ( not me). The 33-12.50 look nice, but are big and heavy. Plan to test later how much extra gas they require.

Note: Prefer the 4:10 gear ratio vs 4:11, gear teeth configuration.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

A few more photos of left side exhaust, at 700R4 transmission frame to trans shift rod. Now up on lift for gear change, so different view. Hope these photos kind of provide image of exhaust route around shift rod, if interested. Again this is all based on header exit location. These headers exit high.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Additional right side.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Rear gear change to 4:10s. The differential photo shows the factory low speed locker. The
K10s come with the heavy duty JB5 brake package. The rear brakes are 2 3/4” wide. The CuNi brake line will be replaced.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Very nice... I've always been a fan of 4x4 swb's...

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Powerbychevy,
Thanks for complement, slow getting back, a little health issue. Hope tomorrow to finish front axle gear change.
Les

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

FRONT AXLE GEAR CHANGE TO 4:10

Turned truck around on lift and started taking left side apart to get axle out.
One suggestion, not sure if necessary, recommend mark spindle rotation position to knuckle, keeps alignment same once back together. NOTE: you may find circular alignment shim between the spindle/knuckle, definitely mark their rotation position to the knuckle. The thickness varies around their circumference as an alignment adjustment. Suggest research this before taking apart, to fully understand their purpose. Will highlight in later photo, left side had none, right side did.

Third photo manual locking hub cap removed. Used a new kit to replace screws, seals, and locking rings in the manual hub.
Forth photo taken apart down to the spindle, keeping parts in order of removal.
Fifth photo spindle removed from knuckle, removal can be hard, careful not to damage parts using force. Lubricated connection circumference with penetrating oil. The knuckle has two small recessed areas on circumference. Used my air hammer with chisel attachment to vibrate connect at these two recessed areas vs forcing apart.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Right side axle removal.
First photo show spindle nut removal tool needed, along with yellow arrow pointing to recessed ares on knuckle.
Photo two show alignment shim, will high light soon.
Third, shows some of tools used.
Forth, carrier removed and pinion bearing race needs to be removed. The carrier in this case was extreamly tight, removal needed lots of force. Likely factory used spreader device in case holes for install.
Fifth, new ring gear and bearings installed

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Another photo of tools.
Second, show pinion gear w/bearing installed. Took three tries installing pinion with different shims for the gears to be installed with correct clearance.
Three and four gears installed.
Last photo shows the circular alignment shim placed between spindle and knuckle. It fits over the studs on the knuckle. Be sure to mark its rotational position on it and knuckle before removing, because it is thicker on one side. As it is used for alignment adjustment.

Re: 1986 K10 Short Bed Build
 

Inner parts of axle and pumpkin sprayed. Use alu foil to protect parts from paint over spray. New alu cover similar to rear cover on back order, maybe available late spring. Much of truck underside not cleaned yet, focus is on bring able to drive. FYI, front sway bar is 1.25”.