Parking brake question
 

Is it possible to switch from a foot operated parking brake setup on the far left side of the cab, to one of the lever operated ones in the center of the dash?

For reference purposes I have a 1953 1/2 ton five window.

The purpose of my question is that I acquired a set of kick panels from Rod Door that are pretty spiffy, but given the pod for a right and left speaker, the left side does not fit because it interferes with the foot operated mechanism.

Thanks in advance.

Bob

Re: Parking brake question
 

I didn't think the pre 1960 came with a foot operated. in base model truck.

You should just have to put the stock 49-53 parking brake handle rod and lever on frame that is probably still in place. hook up the cables the center pull and you should be good to go. I'll bet a few folks may even have one around and I am sure some guys on stovebolt will have something.

Re: Parking brake question
 

Attachment 2362074

Re: Parking brake question
 

I'd like to understand the intersection between where the foot operated pedal connects to the under cab linkage versus the dash operated version. How and where does the cab mounted handle mount?

Re: Parking brake question
 

First forgive me lost my mind on parking brake and years.

Had my other hat on. Of course it had a foot pedal

Look at how the 1955.2 to 59 is setup. That may work for what you ar looking for.

Re: Parking brake question
 

The handle is just under dash it has a straight rod thru firewall down to frame rail to a pivot mounted on frame. The pivot is connected via cable to center of underbelly of truck to center pull for both left and right rear cables.

The handle is a pull so it pulls the pivot to pull the cable toward front and engage.

Re: Parking brake question
 

Then it seems that in addition to the dash mounted handle, I'd need the rod through the firewall, the frame connector (where does it attach relative to the stock steering box) and the cable that would run back to my existing frame mounted pivot to the cables that run to the each side rear brake.

Re: Parking brake question
 

here you go

Re: Parking brake question
 

this is the 55.2 - 59 version. in picture in previous post

Re: Parking brake question
 

or you could go like the 60s cars had the ratchet style.

just some cabling to work on and setup.

Re: Parking brake question
 

Hmmmmm those are a lot of parts to acquire. I see several of them on Chev's of the 40's but that bill is going to add up.......I need to do more research. Thank you for the picture that helps a lot.

Re: Parking brake question
 

'47, maybe '48 and all years of AD cab 1 Ton or larger had a center mount parking brake lever that mounted to the side of the trans. from there a rod ran back to pull on the parking brake cross-bar

people have adapted this same lever to various modern transmissions

it is 'farm implement' in style though

Re: Parking brake question
 

Thats an interesting alternative that might be able to work with my existing setup.

Re: Parking brake question
 

Given that I have a 59' 261 engine and and floor mounted T&F shifter mounted to a four-speed GM Saginaw, that hook up might get tricky

Re: Parking brake question
 

Where did you find this ratchet style? Was it from a specific make and model?

Re: Parking brake question
 

or
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-42563907
and some 1/4' round stock to make a link back to the factory cross bar

Re: Parking brake question
 

you can find the pull style ratcheting ones in toyota pickups 70s-90s

Re: Parking brake question
 

the ratchet style was a 63 mustang but there are other version by all kinds of manufacturers

Re: Parking brake question
 

Found the same one you posted on Summit for a Mustang. I think that might be able to be adapted easy enough. I'll investigate further

Re: Parking brake question
 

the depth of that rod may be different on different version and manufactures.
GM had them in the 150 and other period correct cars as well if you more into keeping in line. But Toyota as well like previously posted may have the right length you need. cable on .

Re: Parking brake question
 

This is a bit more expensive but I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with an electric hydraulic parking brake. This is effectively what is in three of the cars in our family......park the car, press the button to engage the parking brake.

Attachment 2362079

Re: Parking brake question
 

If that is inline with normal brake lines. Good for parking lousy for emergency
You loose a line and fluid it does nothing. There is a reason the parking emergency brake is cable activate

Re: Parking brake question
 

Good point, but then its the same as the three other newer cars in the family. The truck already has been fitted with four rotors and calipers, as well as an electric hydraulic power brake booster.

Re: Parking brake question
 

There is a steel rod that runs from the park brake pedal assembly to the cross shaft (that big bar that the park brake cables fasten to.

That bar runs at a bit of an angle across a pad on the frame rail to a clevis.

Re: Parking brake question
 

A few GM cars in the early 50's had a pull handle to put the park brake on that went under the dash, usually on the left side of the steering wheel. A lot of Ford cars and trucks that handle and cable that could be worked to work the park brake.

One shot with my doodle on it shows what's left of a park brake rod someone lifted the cab off the chassis of the truck and cut the rod The other one shows the cross shaft with part of a bent up rod and you can see the clevis.

Some of the GM ones are far too complicated to swap, OK in their original home but too much work. The TF truck handle has rods and levers going every which way rather than a cable.

The simplest would be a floor mounted lever like a ton of cars have either using the cable that was used with the handle or modifying that steel rod to work with the handle. The rub with that is that you have the park brake handle down on the floor board.

Re: Parking brake question
 

Im working on using a rachet style pull handle from summit. My plan is to mount it on the left side of the floor between the seat and door with a cable going back to the cross bar under the cab. Then the only problem will be the loss of the left side vent.

Re: Parking brake question
 

If possible, I'd like to see a photo of the mechanism you are going to use. I can't yet wrap my head around how you are going to connect it.

Re: Parking brake question
 

If you already have rear discs, then I guess it has park brake capabilities?
I did not have any of the stock park hardware, so I hunted down some parts.
All cable driven. I just built the firewall mount at an angle before final paint to get the cable to hit the eyelet straight. Probably don't have to.

Re: Parking brake question
 

have you looked at the linear actuator style electric e-brakes?
e-stopp is one. it has been used by a couple people on the site, but I am not aware of any long term driving reviews

if you have a functional ebrake now it could be the simplest way to get rid of the pedal without needing to mess up your interior.

Re: Parking brake question
 

tx3100guy. Unfortunatly I dont do pictures. never figured it out.
The handle mounts thru the floor and then a cable will run back to the left end of the cross bar where the cable to the left rear brake mounts.
The only concern is you have to have enough clearance between the seat and the door to reach the handle.
The handle could also be mounted on the floor in front of the seat with the cable routed to the centerr of the cross bar but that may be a little hard to reach.

Re: Parking brake question
 

Wow, you guys have given me three great options. After doing a bit od searching and watching YouTube videos, I find that I'm hardly the first guy to have this dilemma of wanting to eliminate the e-brake pedal.

I was so confused as to which way to go, a mechanical handle connected via cable to the existing brake mechanism, the Mico electric unit installed in the rear brake fluid line, or the E-Stopp linear actuator. I had an embarrassment of rich choices.

In the end, I eliminated the mechanical handle method as my interior is nearly finished and the thoughts of moving components to get everything to fit and still possibly not fit properly. But I was torn between the other two alternatives, so I purchased both and after examining them, will return one of them. I have high hope for the E-Stopp unit since it uses my existing brake cables. Also I hate working with brake lines. The endless chasing of drips and bleeding is a pain in the a$$.

Re: Parking brake question
 

Of the two I like the e-stopp. since it uses the normal cable e brakes.

My only thought would be they should improve it to have push on and off variability.
Seems its either all the way on or all the way off. Would be nice to give you control just like you would with a hand driven brake. Maybe version 2 and only for x dollars more.

Re: Parking brake question
 

Funny I was thinking the same thing. Instead of just a button for on and off, a potentiometer to vary the intensity of the "pull".

After I made that last post, I went and cancelled the order for the Mico unit after I thought about fussing with brakes lines......yet again. I do like the idea of using the existing cables to the rear calipers. Now to find an installation spot that works. HAs anyone here done that already?

Re: Parking brake question
 

the e-stopp appears to be just a motor driven screw thread, and from reports not a very fast acting one. DC motors are pretty constant torque so all you will do with a potentiometer is change the speed, not torque unless you make a motor driver circuit.

buying a PWM controller premade would be easier. But not make the motor any faster. And you'd need some strain feedback loop to make it work well for modulated braking I think.
Hard to make something remotely actuated and as fast acting and well modulated as a pull up handbrake with thumb release. Maybe a pneumatic system.

The estopp if it works as advertised should be a fine parking brake. And a slow acting ebrake that will slowly increase braking pressure. perhaps not ideal, but way better than nothing. Let us know how it works if you switch to this!

You have already switched to dual circuit hydraulic brakes, keeping those in good shape is the main thing. Before you put it on the road I'd test each side of the dual circuits to make sure that a failure still leaves you with pedal pressure on the nonfailed side: that the pedal does not hit the floor before the remaining circuit in the master builds pressure. If this is true, unless you have a catastrophic failure of the pedal/master unit you will be two failure points away from having to rely on the estopp as an emergency brake.

Re: Parking brake question
 

I'll probably skip trying to invent a new way to graduate the pressure of the E-Stopp system and just go with what they provide. I just spent and hour ripping out the old foot pedal mechanism and measuring to cut a patch panel to fill in the holes on the floor and firewall. By the time it gets here, I'll be ready to try to find a suitable location and mounting system.

Re: Parking brake question
 

It would be pretty cool to mount a push/pull switch in the factory brake release bracket under the dash and use the original 'B' knob as the switch for the e-stopp

Re: Parking brake question
 

Now that has me thinking!!!

Re: Parking brake question
 

I forgot that fauXGT had shown his cable setup before. The cable can be run back to operate what ever rear park brake setup you have with just a bit of thinking and effort.

Re: Parking brake question
 

So here is the linear actuator, now to figure out how and where to actually mount it.

Attachment 2363230

Re: Parking brake question
 

take a picture of you underside above transmission. the least amount of cable turns and routes would be easy to work on test and adjust in my opinion. Just thinking the place i would look would be centered offset to one side of drive shaft or trans hump on passenger side. with a couple of crossbars between cross members. off center to allow for full suspension travel and trans. but hey there are plenty of options. if its near any exhaust runs you will want some heat shields to reflect radiant heat.