Explorer 8.8
 

I'm thinking of using an Explorer 8.8 in my 64 Suburban.
My concern is the Explorer is offset 3-4"

Has anyone used one of these on a truck or Suburban? Not sure the driveline would clear the sides of the trailing arm crossmember.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Pics needed

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

I think the offset is small enough to where you would be OK.

You could get under your truck, disconnect driveshaft at the differential end, move that end 3" - 4" to the left, and see where that leaves your clearance at the crossmember loop.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Unfortunately this Suburban had no engine, trans or driveline when I got it. I have an LS1/4L60 for it but I'm not ready to install it yet.

Since I'm on hold waiting my turn for paint, I'm trying to figure out a few other things.

I have an LS1/4l60 & Explorer rearend in my 51 and so I had planned to run the same setup in this. It wasn't until a recent sleepless night that I thought of this potential issue.

I also considered this crossmember for a littlew extra clearence.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

I'm certain you can get around the crossmember issue. I think you could even drill the rivits on the stock crossmember and move it forward a few inches to increase driveshaft clearance. Another thought is having a driveshaft shop fab you a smaller diameter shaft.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Don't forget the explorer 8.8 is also a good bit narrower than the C10 axle. May or may not be a problem for you. I had actually thought previously of grabbing 2 of them and using 2 long shafts in 1 and 2 short in the other for projects I had at the time. The shafts are apparently 2.875" different side to side.

Explorer 8.8 = 59.5" WMS
C10 10 bolt = 62.125" WMS
Widened 8.8 = 62.375" WMS
Shortened 8.8 = 56.625" WMS

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Well I ordered this crossmember from GMSS
https://www.gowenmountainspeedshop.c...&category_id=7

This will give me the most possible amount of clearance.

Unfortunately I won't know how this all works until after paint, when I can get the engine/trans in.

I like using the Explorer rear ends for a few reasons:

1: For $300 you get disc brakes, 3:73 gears and LSD.

2: Since they are narrower I get more options for wheel offset and width. I use wheel spacers to dial in exactly where I went the wheels set. I know some people aren't fans of spacers but I get them custom made so they are hub & lug centric for the axle and hub centric for the wheel side. I've put thousands of miles on my 51 without any issues.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Personally I would aim for the 03+ Crown Vic version. At 65 inches wide.

Down side to the majority of 8.8 is the smaller outer bearings. So on a truck that will be used as a truck. I would go for the 9" outers at rebuild time.

On my 73 C10. I am running a G10 10 bolt axle at 72" wide with 255/60r17's on 9" wide rims. The rims have about a 5" back spacing. So i have a flush wide stance look with out spacers.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Good point, the larger wheels ( I'll be running 22's for now) pushed out on spacers probably puts more strain on the axles & bearings. Something I hadn't thought of.

I know where I can buy a 65 C-10 rearend, 3.73 posi, just trying to use what I've got.
Also I would end up swapping that to disc brakes so I would have a bunch of $$ into it by the time I was done.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Yeah I'm definitely not a spacer hater or anything lol. Just wanted to make sure you knew about the width beforehand since it could be a good thing or bad depending or your plans and preferences.

8.8 is a popular swap over in the offroad world too so I have seen them used for bunch of projects and they are a good deal for what you get for sure. I like using junkyard available style parts where I can for easy replacement down the rd vs custom parts.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Well I’m now overthinking the front so I just ordered the QA1 crossmember w/ coilovers. I hope to drive this even more than my 51.

I’ll have to sell the POL rack and pinion, 3” drop springs and stock A arms I rebuilt but I figured it was best to install this while the engine is out and the front clip is off.

I’ll be doing the QA1 rear setup later.

Also thought I would add a current pic of the Suburban.
Plans are LS1/4l60, custom big truck grille, 2 tone paint and some transport wheels for now.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

The late model Crown Vic front end might have been a decent front suspension choice. Used in lots of swaps these days.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

I owned a 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac for many years. I bought it new, and put 328,000 miles on it. The Sport Tracs have a 4.11 gear with LSD, FWIW.

Also, I regularly towed a 69 Chevelle on an open trailer for tens of thousands of miles with the Sport Trac - no issues with axles, bearings, or anything else. The Explorer 8.8's are fine in any vehicle treated as a truck.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

There's really nothing wrong with stock C-10 front suspension. Some drop springs and really good shocks probably would have been fine for the type of driving I do.

I'm just overthinking it all and afraid of doing things twice. I have done most thins on my 51 two or three times so I want to avoid it on this project.

I really just want the coilovers to have the most height options. Not planning on going super low but want the wheels to sit just right in the opening. Also not sure how long I'll run the transport wheels, so it give me the option to adjust again if I change wheels.

Also, really wanted power steering, I may use the Suburban to tow our vintage trailer. I already had thee POL rack and pinion kit but decided to go with the QA1 crossmember and rack so I know for sure it will all work together.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

That's good to know. I didn't think an Explorer could tow that much.

I will have my 51 back in the garage in a few months ( it's in storage right now). Just to be safe I plan to check the wheel bearings on it. I've had the 8.8 and spacers on it since 2018.


I appreciate all of the opinions and info from others. It's good to see this forum still has activity.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

It doesn't fit C10 frames very nicely as it something like 4 inches wider.

Going off memory our frames are 32 inches and Crown Vic is 36.5 inches. Which why it is awesome for early Fords as they share the same frame width.

Some guy has narrowed the CV front ends and I have seen custom steel versions. So I would do either one to no make it look ghetto rigged.

On my C10 I have done sectioned crossmember and a Gulstrand mod. Along with the caster mod. It handles very well for a truck on basic tires, and drives 80mph easily all day.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

34" width

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

A bit off topic but my 98 Wrangler with a LS6/4L60E combo I used a 8.8 Explorer rear end with 4:10 gears. It has been bullet proof for 15 years. I had the drive shaft built with a double u-joint in the back to make up for the 2-3" lift and the offset pinion on the 8.8. Zero vibration.
I did have the axle tubes welded to the center section. If you are modding the axle mounting brackets the 8.8 axle tubes are pretty thin.
I also don't hate axle spacers but only if they a billet aluminum and bolt to the axle.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

I have a 9" in my '61, and it, too, has an offset pinion. It just fits through the "X" in my early frame. The 8.8 should be fine.

I would also echo that the stock front is more than adequate for a street truck. Lower it (better camber curve) and move the lower control arm forward 3/4" - caster makes a HUGE difference in handling.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Starting with a negative Camber setpoint helps a bunch as well.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Good to know the 8.8 fits on your 61.

Also I probably should have stuck with the stock front. Just don’t want the same experience I had on my 51 where I changed different pieces multiple times. I’ve had 3 engines, 2 different rear suspension setups and multiple different components in the front suspension.

I tried to save money initially and had zero experience with hot rods, which ended up costing me more in the long run. Probably causing me to over due it this time.

Added a pic of the 51 just because I’ve mentioned it a few times in this thread, I know it’s off topic.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

I ordered the QA1 rear setup also, it’s back ordered until the end of the month.
My GMSS crossmember shipped today. So hopefully I can get the front and rear done when the back ordered parts show up.

Still won’t know how the driveline works out until after paint but based on the info I got here I’m not as concerned. I’ll stick with the Explorer 8.8 and see how it goes.

Will try to follow up as I get all of this together. A lot to do on this project and the holidays will slow my progress.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Nice truck!

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

The Explorer Sport Trac has a longer wheelbase than a standard Explorer SUV, and is rated to tow more weight than a regular Explorer SUV. My 2004 Sport Trac was rated to tow 5500lbs. My 1800 lb open trailer and 3700 lb Chevelle put me right on the money. That said, factory tow ratings are VERY conservative. With a good quality brake controller, brakes on both axles of my trailer, and a weight-distributing hitch, it was ZERO drama to tow that load with the Sport Trac.

Your truck looks like it will be awesome.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

I think the axle will be fine. I will probably replace the bearings before the final install since the axle has been sitting so long.

I'll get get the front suspension in this weekend, the QA1 rear won't be here until early next month, it's on back order. Hoping to have it all in by January.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Got the QA1 front installed. Wasn’t impressed by the instructions or fit. Hopefully it aligns well and drives good.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

I love the amount of dynamic ackerman that's in there!

Straight impossible to get that with a factory crossmember. Should have a very nice turning radius, and responsive steering.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

I hope you’re right. I had several issues installing this. I’m a little concerned with the steering setup. The angle on the steering rack seems excessive and the adjustment sleeves are all the way in. I’m hoping it aligns well and drives good. Won’t know for sure until I get an alignment, which will be quite a while.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

When the steering rack is closer to the centerline of the wheel, dynamic ackerman increases. The angle of the steering arms in an indicator. More ackerman is always good. Put it this way: I am envious.

If the tie rods are adjusted all the way in, and you need more adjustment, cut the tie rods shorter by whatever you need to correct the adjustment. This is often done when installing dropped spindles (grin).

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Thanks for the info, I was concerned about the rack angle but it sounds like an advantage.

I was also concerned about the rod end at the spindle since it requires 4 custom aluminum pieces per side, while the POL rack uses a stock tie rod. I believe these are in place to correct bump steer. I have a problem with bump steer in my 51 and I really want to avoid it on this build.

I will be using drop spindles and setting the Suburban as low as I can, my steep driveway will be the limit. Has to be able to get in the garage.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Bumpsteer is 100% determined by the location of all the pivots - ball joints, inner bushings, rack width and height. It's not always easy to change it.

Show me a straight-on front view of everything, and I can pretty much tell you if it's all in the ballpark or not. I am super passionate about steering and suspension (suspect Aspergers here).

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Ackerman should also be able to (can?) be increased @ the steering arm depending on type of spindle. I don't know if the steering arm is cast in the exact same location between a dropped vs stock spindle.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

I’ll try to get a pic of it from the front soon. Once this Suburban is done I hope to dig back into my 51. Just needs a few adjustments, mainly the bump steer. I really want to fix that since my wife will likely drive it once the Suburban is done.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

That’s a good question about the steering arm at the spindle. Unfortunately I don’t have any stock spindles to compare. I do know that QA1 has some different spacers at the spindle depending on your wheel size and spindle type. You can seem them in this page of the instructions.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Oh. I did not see that those were heim joints.

It looks like the spacer is "ideal" according to the instructions, with removing the spacer only to fit smaller wheels. Fit the bigger wheels if you can.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

I have some 15" wheels on while I work on the Suburban. Once I feel it's ready to drive I'll switch to the 22" transport wheels and add the spacers.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Well , I haven’t made much progress on the rear suspension. Had multiple issues with the GMSS trailing arm crossmember and some issues with the QA1 parts.

GMSS Crossmember - This really just doesn’t fit. It’s a 3 piece design, which should make it easier to install. I had 3 issues.
1: the main part of the crossmember was wider than my frame rails, so I had to spread them apart.
2: The side brackets were so wide they stuck out of the frame rails 1/2”. These had to be cut down especially with the already tight fitting center section.
3: The anti squat brackets don’t fit, they hit the floor brace. GMSS sent me new brackets, these only have 4 holes for adjustment and they’re spaced unevenly. They’ll work but I’m not impressed.

I wouldn’t recommend this for anyone looking to swap their trailing arm crossmember. Tinworks or Porterbilt are better options.

First photo shows brackets upside down, second shows the brace they hit, the brackets are about 1” too tall

On the QA1 kit I got the Coilover brackets included need to be installed right where I already have a bolt in C notch. I probably could have cut up the 2 and welded them together but I contacted QA1 and I was able to purchase their Cnotch brackets that have the coilover mounts built in. Another $300 but I think it’s a better solution.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

Been working on the grill since I’m waiting on parts.
Made it much more complicated than I should have I cut all the mounts off the letters and welded a stiffener to the back of the letters, hoping to make it look more like it was floating. Unfortunately it was still too flimsy so I had to make new brackets for the ends.

Should have left the stock brackets alone like everyone else.

Still unsure if I’ll use this or stock.

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

What if you remove the rest of the mounts off the letters, and add a black mesh behind, so the letters look like they are "floating" on the mesh?

Re: Explorer 8.8
 

I might mock that up and see what it looks like. If I did that, I would cut out the center support also.