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Temp Gauge Help!!
So I am 80% sure I have a bad gauge. Fired up a truck that hasn’t run in a very long time. I had the cluster out at one point to repair blank/vacuum gauge hole and add a clock there since someone had killed the intermediate tin.
Temp gauge is pegged hot, I can see the needle. The sensor was not even hooked up at any time testing. I have not ohm gauged the sensor wire yet. I hooked up a ground to the gauge with alligator clips. All no change. And the gauge is pegged with the key off, so new gauge??? I have other clusters to steal a gauge out of, hoping I can do it from underneath, my seat it out and I would rather not pull the cluster again. |
Re: Temp Gauge Help!!
Did you observe the needle move to the pegged position when you first started your truck? The winding that pushes the needle to the right has its circuit completed by the sender which you don't even have hooked up. This indicates the sender wire or the gauge post on the passenger side of the gauge that the sender wire leads to is shorted. I have seen it happen where the gauge is mounted crooked in its mounting holes which can cause one or more of the mounting posts to short out on the metal mounting plate.
If you're flexible, you should be able to get back behind the dash to remove the temperature and battery gauges without removing the cluster. Not sure it's easier that way though. |
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The needle could be stuck. You might try very gently pushing it slightly to the left.
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So when I finished the cluster it was definitely not pegged hmm, still wondering why it will not go back down even with battery disconnected and key off.
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Nice looking cluster
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Thanks I just hope I can fix this water temp gauge without pulling it again. It’s so weird that the gauge will not return without power. Almost like it’s stuck.
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I’m going to attempt to do some more diagnosis tonight. I was so happy to just get this truck running finally. |
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Did your temp gauge work correctly in your truck before you pulled the cluster to add the clock?
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I'm wondering if the dash wiring harness is for a gauge cluster with warning lights instead of gauges. You can identify it by looking at the connector that plugs into the back of gauge cluster. If the harness is for a warning light cluster, then the wires in terminals 1 and 12 (both at one end of the connector) will be dark blue and gray. If the harness is correct for your full gauge cluster, then those wires will be black with a white stripe and black.
A warning light harness places a ground wire on the terminal that would then be running to your temp gauge. The power wire, though, would be running to the cluster metal housing/ground, so the fuse would blow. I wouldn't expect the gauge to move at all in this scenario. |
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If the fuel gauge is working, then the wiring is probably correct. If a previous owner repinned the gauge cluster connector to work with the full gauges, then the dark green temp sender wire might still be routed to the ignition switch for checking the warning light when cranking the engine. This connection would cause the gauge to peg to the right when cranking. My '68 had been converted to full gauges by a previous owner. It still had that ignition switch connection, and the gauge would peg like that. I pulled the terminal with the two dark green wires out of the ignition switch connector and taped them up.
This still wouldn't explain why your gauge is pegged permanently. It very well might just be stuck mechanically like Rich69shortfleet suggested. |
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Things are too far apart to check for you, and I may be remembering wrong. But I sort of recall my temp gauge not returning to zero upon turning off truck. When I would return after a cool down sit, gauge was still in a warm position. Turn key to on position or start the truck and the temp needle would move to cold position. I am about 50/50 I am recalling this correctly. Could be the years of cannabis eroding things.
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Here's a video I made a while ago that shows how the needle behaves when you move it around by hand.
https://youtu.be/pK8lQ0DFHOo?feature=shared |
Re: Temp Gauge Help!!
There are two sets of windings in the temp gauge that push the needle in opposite directions. The sender is connected to the winding that pushes the needle toward Hot. The resistor on the back of the gauge is connected to the winding that pushes the needle toward Cold. Maybe you've got a bad resistor or oxidation on the resistor pads so the needle is never getting pushed to Cold.
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I also need to see what's up with the sender in the truck, it has a spade terminal which from my research is for the warning light not the gauge. |
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Yes, that's the incorrect sender if it has a spade terminal. There's only one sender type for the stock gauge, and it is for a 1/2 NPT hole. This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9SM22/
If you need the sender to fit a 3/8 NPT hole, you can buy the 1/2 NPT sender and have a machinist turn and re-thread it. There are a couple forum members here offering that service. I had forum member A1971Blazer turn and thread mine. Other people had it done by brian mac. |
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I have eliminated that from the equation with it unplugged but still need to change it. |
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If the radiator cap is off and engine cool not much coolant will come out. I just unscrew the old and plug the hole with my thumb while I'm picking up the new and start threading it. You may lose 1/4 cup of coolant at most. I use about 2 wraps of teflon tape around the threads, it will not prevent the sender from grounding.
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Doing some tests, the sender wire is not shorted, it has resistance does not ohm at 0. The gauge on the back both studs have 12V at them and the ground lug is grounded (ohms to 0.00). Not to sure now other than stuck gauge
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The resistor would have to be removed to be tested. It should measure approximately 85 Ohms.
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Just took out the gauge, cleaned all the connections and reinstalled with a ground. Still pegs but it’s not stuck I set it back to low prior to putting it in
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Fixed thanks everyone. It was a bad resistor on the gauge. I had another cluster in the shed, tested the resistor and installed on the gauge, put it back in and all good.
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That is an interesting question pjmoreland asks. If the truck was originally a warning gauge cluster truck the start position of the key switch would have lighted the temp light as a bulb test. pjmoreland mentioned that possibility in post 14 above. I would not want that temp gauge pegging during start.
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So the saga kinda continues, I think I’m going to need to ohm the new sender. Ran the truck today, not instantly pegged but pegs very quickly after less than 5 min of run time (has water cause when I changed sensor it all poured out on me). Pegs slowly, not instant, then key off….still pegged, key on returns to a normal range, then running it creeps up and pegs again quickly.
Edit: part of my whole issue this whole time with the sending unit, I believe I am hooking up the horn wire to it, I was wondering what the weird junction that splits is for then I went and looked at another truck today. I just need to find the sensor wire now. |
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Found the wire. I did this a while back. I ran it to the sensor on the passenger side head. Dummy.
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Here is how many ohms the sender should have at various temperatures.
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...53#post7680753 |
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There was a wire bundle that plugs into the firewall connector left half (as you are looking at it from standing in front of the truck). It is wrapped with non-adhesive vinyl tape knotted in a clever way to keep it from unraveling at the ends, but when putting the wrapper back on I have used black light duty zip ties. The bundle goes straight up from the firewall plug into a plastic wire gutter, across the length of the wire gutter, then down to a clamp on one of the transmission bell housing bolts on the passenger side. From there the wires come out of the vinyl wrap and go off in different directions engine related, to the coil, starter, temp sender, etc. The temperature sender wire had a cloth wire cover on it to protect it from heat of the engine if it went to the driver side head because it was laying on the engine where the intake manifold meets the valve cover. For the passenger side sender that would be very close to the clamp at the bell housing so it may not need a cloth cover. Here is a picture borrowed from another thread.
https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...1&d=1626725730 |
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But that did help me in that I need to route my coil wires etc.. through that clamp I see it on the tunnel/firewall. Right now they are just kinda in no man’s land. |
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