68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

In March of '23, I bought a 68 C10 factory stock height short step and got it running and driving, and was close to finishing it, but I'm an avid bird hunter, and decided it wouldn't meet my long term needs. Sometimes you just need a 4x4. Luckily, I happened across this factory 68 K10 4x4 on fb, and was able to work out an almost straight across trade, where I got to keep my 1990 tbi 350 motor and my new 31" BFG tires and wheels. As you all probably know, these are fairly rare trucks, and only 1706 short step K10's were made in 68. I feel very fortunate to have stumbled onto this one. Here it is in my driveway after I got it a month ago in mid February:

https://i.imgur.com/kbJJ5KHl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3BC3pT2l.jpg

I'm also a professional oil painter (you can see my work at www.marklarsonart.com). My tentative concept for this truck will be an art truck that I can bird hunt in, but also use as a traveling advertisement for my art work. I can use it at art shows, do pop up art shows with carpeted panels out of the bed, etc. I'm thinking of painting it in turquoise with dark ivory top and grille, with the sides fading to subtle wave forms and sea foam imagery (hence the "SEA 10" play on words) painted over muted gold or silver leaf, and variegated red gold leaf pinstriping. Lots of thin, transparent glazes to allow some of the metal leaf to show through and shimmer in the light, and clear coating. My business name will be on the tailgate. That's my plan. We'll see how it goes.

I especially like that it has a gun rack, and these original stickers on the roof are awesome. I'm definitely keeping them:

https://i.imgur.com/KxF7V4ul.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/p0ITleMl.jpg

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

This truck had a 6 cyl/4sp originally. I'm dropping in a new 350 tbi crate motor and rebuilt 700r4/241c passenger drop combo from a 1990 Suburban. I'm almost done painting the frame (waiting for the rain to stop here in Oregon) and will drop in the motor/trans later this month hopefully. Then re-do the brakes, including a front disc conversion that I bought from Horsepower Sales (https://www.horsepowersales-llc.com/), do some rocker repairs to the cab, paint, reassemble, finish wiring, do some custom art on it, and voila! Done by May/June. Fingers crossed. It will basically be a 1990's OBS truck with a 68 body. That's the plan anyway. :metal:

https://i.imgur.com/pzGjglxl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/UqD5Dfbl.jpg

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Nice truck congrats!

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Thanks! Can't wait to get it done and use it this fall.

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Love the sticker! :metal:

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Finished painting the front of the frame today, using the KBS chassis paint system. Cleaner, zinc coating, and rust seal paint. Wow, that stuff is tough. Amazing. It's a gloss finish, and they provide a can of satin top coat. It took a day and a half to paint the frame using a brush though, so I may just use satin rustoleum as a top coat to speed it up.

https://i.imgur.com/pNJfx9Hl.jpg

I also installed a new quick ratio steering box from a 78 square, to replace the old 68 version. So I went from 4.5 turns stop to stop to 3.5. And, because my frame is straight without the ps box indentation, the p.o. mounted the old box with nearly 3/4" of stacked washers to provide clearance. That couldn't have helped the steering geometry. The new box is flat and mounts flush to the frame. A really satisfying upgrade. The p.o. did weld a thick frame reinforcing plate behind the box, and welded a crack nearby also, so that's good. No other cracks that I can see, so it's in good shape. Here's the old box and the new one installed:

https://i.imgur.com/netm9xel.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/msALhr7l.jpg

You'll also notice the drag link was repaired in the past with a thick weld. It shows no signs of failing, but I don't trust it. I'm going to replace it with a newer version that has the adjusting sleeve so I can fine tune the centering of the box. That said, does anyone know off hand if a drag link from a square has the same tie rod ends as the 68 and older version?

https://i.imgur.com/nyyS7bIl.jpg

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Yeah, me too. It really takes me back. The 70's font really sells it. It's all wrinkly and old, and I thought about having it reproduced and replaced, but I think I'll just paint around it. So cool.

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Checked your site, you truly are an artist. When I was in college my professor told me I was great at looking at things and recreating them but I would never be an artist because I couldn't envision new things and create them. So I became an engineer, where I envisioned new things and created them!

Good luck with the truck, Rg

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Thanks! It's a blessing, but sometimes I wish I could just leave well enough alone too. Lol.

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Moderator, please feel fre to move this thread to the 4x4 builds section if necessary.

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

I've been busy the last week or so. After painting the frame on my 68 K10, I installed the gas tank, installed new shocks, dropped in my new crate 350 tbi/K case 700r4/241c combo, and installed a new 4 row aluminum radiator. I ended up using a trans crossmember from a 1990 Suburban, which fit great, except for having to drill new holes in the frame. The height using the stock 87-95 rubber trans mount is perfect, giving me a 4 degree engine angle (I might shim it up to 3 degrees), and clearance for the front driveshaft is wonderful. The double cardan front driveshaft, also from a wrecking yard 1990 burb, fits perfectly, extended halfway down the slip yoke after installation. The rear is at the driveline shop being shortened. Rear pinion angle is 7 degrees, so I'll have to shim it up to 3-4 degrees once I get a full gas tank and bed on it.

Here are a few pics:

https://i.imgur.com/ORmPjyQl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IoZ7rMAl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/fEpb41Rl.jpg

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Forgot to mention, the wrecking yard also has a skid plate to attach to the mounting holes on the trans crossmember. They want $50 for it though, and I'm not sure it's really necessary. I'm not going to be doing hard core wheeling with it, just steep rutted 4x4 roads for bird hunting and such. What do you all think, worth it?

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Sounds like cheap insurance to me...

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

In the grand scheme of things, you're probably right. Thanks.

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Very cool build! I am looking forward to following along.

I am curious about your powersteering setup.....was it powersteering before tearing it down? If so, did you have any clearance issues with the steering arm on the knuckle hitting or anything? I am restoring a 1967 K20 myself while I opted to just rebuild and reinstall the manual steering gear, I am thinking that I would like powersteering in the future. I want to keep the original front axle as well, so any powersteering setup would have to work with the stock steering arm.

Thanks, Clay

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Thanks! It did have ps, with the older 68 style ps box with the bulge on the side. The post above shows that in detail. I swapped it out with the newer '78 quick ratio box and used the pitman arm from the 68 box. No issues with that swap whatsoever. I would highly recommend doing the swap. Well worth the medium amount of effort.

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

You never know when one of those ruts might bottom you out. $50.00 is cheaper than a cracked transfer case.

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Very true. Better safe than sorry. I pulled the trigger and bought it this afternoon.

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

I've managed to get quite a bit done the last few weeks. I got my new crate engine all assembled, but when I went to prime it with a distributor priming tool, I discovered the oil pump was missing the oil pump shaft that engages the distributor. Aaargh! So, I had to jack up the motor from the mounts, drop the pan, re-install the pump with the shaft, and then install the distributor. I wired in the cs130 105amp alternator using the inline diode resistor method I read about here, and it started right up and it runs fantastic! It purrs like a brand new motor. I couldn't be happier. Well worth the effort and expense. The alternator is putting out 14.3 volts too, so good to go there. I put a 1" throttle body spacer in and also spaced up the bracketry so the tv and throttle cable geometry stayed the same. Throttle response seems excellent.

I also had new driveshafts made and installed, and I installed the skid plate I bought earlier under the transfer case. I also installed vents on the transfer case and front pumpkin. Here's the double cardan front shaft, which is stock length from a 1990 Suburban, but the grease fitting was broken off the original on the slip yoke, and the seal was leaking, so I had Precision Driveline in Portland install a new yoke and u joints. It fits absolutely perfectly, no adjustments needed. The rear shaft is only 38" long, with a pretty steep 16 degree shaft angle, so I may have to go to a double cardan setup if I get vibrations with it.

https://i.imgur.com/LMQl6C5l.jpg

Last weekend I installed new brakes and drums in the rear, and the old shoes were completely missing any pad on the right side. Wow. Here's a before/after:

https://i.imgur.com/xPK4OqFl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/A1oalLhl.jpg


While I was there working on the rear, I also put in new wheel bearings and seals since there was a bit of forced wobble. Much tighter now, although if I really put my weight into it and push into the axle, there's still a very slight clunk. It just feels like the tiny bit of axle end play from the clip groove sliding back and forth a tiny bit. No up and down play, just a tiny bit of forced in and out play ever so slightly. Does anyone know if this is normal? It seems like it should be, but I've never replaced an axle before. The axle looked fine and not worn, but I'm no expert. Fun times.

The chassis is almost done. All that's left is the front closed knuckle disc brake conversion and brake lines, then on to fixing the cab, paint it and put it back on, and reassemble. Easy peasy. I had a new grille and inner/outer fenders delivered too. It's really coming along! I got juried into a big Portland art festival in June, so I have to pivot to that, but I still hope to have the truck done by July/August at the latest. :metal:

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

I took some more pics. Forgot to mention I installed a new mini starter, and man, that thing is awesome! I love how much room there is now, especially if/when I install headers in the future.

https://i.imgur.com/TBMuH7Ul.jpg

Transfer case vent and new skidplate:

https://i.imgur.com/NRXKK0Xl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WuFzSYHl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3l06Jhcl.jpg

throttle body spacer:

https://i.imgur.com/vQ3Trvgl.jpg

new grille and headlights:

https://i.imgur.com/E3j2oxrl.jpg

Anyone use these cam operated battery posts? Love these things and all the extra terminals.

https://i.imgur.com/e6HejAtl.jpg

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Here's a dumb question. Has anyone ever painted a battery before? As long as there's no battery acid leaking or seeping, it should be fine, right? That black plastic is boring. Maybe I'll paint it and put a cool sasquatch sticker on it or something.

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Just because no one has doesn't mean you can't!

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

I picked up a like new '97 grey split bench seat yesterday with power bolsters and head rests, and my overall color scheme is now fern green metallic with dark ivory grille and top, and grey interior with black accents and a spot of red here and there. I might have to re-think the entire "Sea10" concept (which is probably better suited to a hot rod C10) and just go with solid color for now and do custom paintings on it later. The battery color will be fun to play with.

Here's the paint color I'm digging: https://tcpglobal.com/products/rsp-u...xoCiNcQAvD_BwE

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

I like that paint color. I used TCP paint (Frost Green Metallic - Single Stage) on my C10 and it turned out pretty good.

Good progress so far!

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Thanks! I like that Frost Green Metallic also. I was considering that.

I'm getting ready to do the front disc brake conversion on the closed knuckle axle, which is pretty daunting, but I'm hoping it won't be as hard as it sounds. The rear axle bearings and seals wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. The kit I bought for the front from Horsepower Sales looks pretty comprehensive, with a machined spindle, so it should just be remove and replace. After that, it's just some rocker/floor repair, paint, and re-assembly. Can't wait to get this thing done and on the road! :uhmk:

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Here are the '97 Chevy seats I bought yesterday for $300. They are like new and fit awesome in the cab, with power bolsters also. Although I do need to move the steering wheel in 2-3 inches, and will have to section the bases so they fit level. They came with 3 point seatbelts also. With the rear gas tank removed, there's quite a bit of space behind the seats for hunting gear, paintings, whatever:

https://i.imgur.com/BXdRCeUl.jpg

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Still plugging away on the chassis. I dove in and decided to replace this long ago welded drag link. The weld may have been ok as is, but I couldn't trust my life with it, and it's not adjustable either:
https://i.imgur.com/38uB5Hxl.jpg

67-68 drag links aren't available anywhere, so I had to piece it together using one for a square body K10. The tie rod end for the pitman arm fit great, since my ps box is from a '78 square, but the rearward one was way too big and wouldn't seat in the steering arm, and after ordering a couple different ones and nothing fitting, I ended up having to order a ball joint reamer to make the hole larger, which did the trick. Now I have a new, much stronger and beefier drag link with adjustability:

https://i.imgur.com/sIHTXy7l.jpg

I also tackled the front disc brake conversion, which was a chore, but I figured it out. Nice having new wheel bearings and axle bushings and some stopping power. I decided to do the conversion rather than an axle swap, since newer axles don't come with 4:11 gears like my rear has, so I'd be looking at a re-gear, which is about the same cost as the conversion. And, I like the idea of keeping it original and having 411's with my 31 inch tires and 700r4 with overdrive. I could always go up a tire size eventually if I need taller gearing:

https://i.imgur.com/x4lCxkHl.jpg

I went with Mile Marker hubs. Wow, they work as good as they look. Effortless:

https://i.imgur.com/cvggKRBl.jpg

I also had a leaking front pinion seal, so I replaced that today. I've never done it before, and the hardest part was getting the yoke nut off. I couldn't do it with a breaker bar, so I had to buy an impact wrench, which took it right off. After that, it was simply a matter of removing the seal and replacing it with a new one, a new nut, and torquing it down. I thought about having a shop do it later, but I'm money ahead, even after buying the wrench and parts!

https://i.imgur.com/SqaZSDwl.jpg

Lastly, I scored on craigslist last week. I picked up a set of new TMI door panels, a fitted black carpet (for a low hump, but I will make it work), new keyed ignition and headlight switch, and black 3 point seat belts, all for $450. The TMI panels go for $1200 by themselves. I wasn't planning on going with a grey and black interior, but it will look fine with my planned fern green metallic paint and grey bench seat. The black inserts will look great with the black gauge bezel, black carpet, black steering column details (I'm leaning towards keeping my original steering wheel and painting it and the column body color with black leather wheel wrap, hand painted silver leaf wheel spokes, chrome 68 horn button, and black seat belts. It should all tie together. All I need now are grey sun visors and dash pad to complete the ensemble:

https://i.imgur.com/BnNmCHll.jpg

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

All that's left for the chassis now is to install a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit for my 241C transfer case that I bought from Tom Woods Driveshafts. I thought about running my current setup as is, but the working angles are around 12 degrees, and even if parallel, I don't want to be worrying about breaking U joints (and who knows what else) down the road. So I'm doing the SYE and double cardan shaft for peace of mind. I'll have to raise my pinion up a few degrees with shims. Do it right the first time, and all that...:blah:

After that's done in the next week, I'll move on to fixing the cab, paint, and reassembly. I hope to be driving it in July or August. Stay tuned!

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Finally have my chassis pretty much done! Ready to move on the cab and paint/body next. Installed a slip yoke eliminator from Tom Woods Driveshafts, along with a custom made double cardan driveshaft. Fits and works perfectly. I'll have to raise my rear pinion up a few degrees after I get the cab on and check the final angles under load, but long term, I won't have any worries about broken/worn ujoints from too steep working angles. Full steam ahead!

https://i.imgur.com/8UMEVfFl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WFu5fVel.jpg

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Your project is coming along nicely!!! Great job!

I had the same issue with my steering arm ball joint. The new adjustable drag link ball joints were too big. So, a little worth with the ball joint reamer and they fit perfectly!

You mentioned in another thread that you had a PTO on the Rockwell transfercase that came with your truck. Do you have any pictures of that setup? Do you still have the PTO winch setup? I am thinking about putting a PTO winch on my 67 K20.


Clay

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Thanks! Appreciate the feedback! I don't have any pics of the pto unfortunately. The PO took it off and sold it as part of the deal we made when I got the truck. I was able to trade straight across with a 68 C10 step I had that was 2/3 done. I still have the pto big round knob on the left dash. I'm going to leave it and paint it red and paint "Eject" on it. Lol.

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

I've been making major progress, and am actually only a couple weeks away from having it on the road. Here are some pics of the usual cutting and replacing rusty metal, from the rockers and lower a pillar to floor supports:

https://i.imgur.com/W1U6WD3l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ngrggG7l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KVnJUc9l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/G4Eb5kOl.jpg

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

I was having issues with door gaps and fitment, but managed to get the gap issue resolved. The passenger door still had a solid 1/4" overhang at the bottom however that I wasn't able to fix, so I welded a 1/4" steel rod to the edge of the rocker and ground it with the door on so it matched the overhang exactly. Voila! No more overhang!

https://i.imgur.com/cTyP5qyl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wiXUKybl.jpg

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Always satisfying getting the rust repaired on the cab. Nice work!

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

After getting all the cab bodywork done, here it is all painted and ready to attach to the frame. The color is TCP Global's Frost Blue Urethane metallic, and it looks awesome in the sunlight. I tried using an electric spray gun I had for the primer coat, and it worked so well that I used it for the final finish. I didn't like the blue I used on the top of the dash, so I repainted that with a graphite metallic that I used on the rally wheels.

https://i.imgur.com/ke738sFl.jpg

Here's the interior. You'll notice the dash is cutout for one of those 3d printed bezels so I can install a touch screen double din am/fm cd radio with backup camera. I really need the camera since I have to back up out of my driveway a lot and can't see who's walking by on the sidewalk. This is going to be my daily driver main vehicle, so it needs to work for me.

https://i.imgur.com/1ufL9s6l.jpg

After a test fit on the cab, the floor was hitting these brackets on top of the transfer case. They aren't needed, so I cut them off.

https://i.imgur.com/ENCOyFzl.jpg

After another test fit, the floor was still hitting, but just a bit. So rather than cutting the floor, I decided to lower the transfer case by putting 3/4" spacers under the crossmember. This dropped my engine/transmission angle down to 6 degrees, which I can live with. If it becomes an issue, I can always bend up the floor and high hump cover a bit right where it hits with a bfh and push it back up. After several fittings, I got it nailed down and cab secured. I'm doing all this in my driveway with an engine hoist btw, so if I can do it, anyone can!

https://i.imgur.com/1hcCWlQl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Mszk3dml.jpg

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Thanks! It's coming along nicely.

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Here is the cab attached with a new windshield installed a couple days ago. The engine is in the rear position, and it's such a tight fit against the firewall which I'm not thrilled with. I couldn't move it to the forward position due to clearance issues with the front axle, so it is what it is.

https://i.imgur.com/2kR8Ztjl.jpg

All that's left is to finish the fender, door and bed bodywork, paint and reassemble. I hooked my tbi harness yesterday to the existing harness and fired it up from the new dash ignition switch for the first time. Runs like a new engine, which it is. I have a cs130 alternator, so I'm finding I don't need the external voltage regulator wiring at all. I tested voltage output at the battery and it's 13.7 volts, so all is good for now.

I'm going to be installing the brake booster and new tilt column over the weekend and next week, along with finishing the front end bodywork and paint. Then the bed and door bodywork and paint, wrap up the interior and I'm close to being done! :metal:

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

I do have an opinion question for the members here. I'm going to be painting the grille vanilla, and was considering doing the same to the top. What do you think? Paint the top or leave it alone? Curious what people here think.

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

I like the white painted tops, Chrysler has a white called Cool Vanilla that would look great.

Paint looks great, hard to believe it was from an electric sprayer!

Re: 68 "Sea 10" K10 art truck build
 

Yeah I was surprised too. I'm at that point now I just want to get it done. I have a vin inspection appointment for Aug. 8th, so my goal is to get it drivable by then. Still debating on painting the top or not. I'll see how the grille looks after I paint it vanilla and decide then.

Yesterday I installed the restored heater inner and outer box with new heater core, cables and chrome control panel. Wow. What a difference. The new heater control works awesome and is so smooth. Will post pics soon. Also installing new short CPP tilt steering column today/tomorrow, finishing the brake booster install, new digital gauges, then final fender/door/bed bodywork and paint.

Also had an issue with the new rebuilt engine. It started running like crap the other day after I moved the Painless harness into the cab and replaced the heater box with new heater hoses, and then let it run for an extended time. After it warmed up it would slowly run worse and then stall out like it was being choked. Jumped the A&B pins on the ALDL and got a code 33, map system issue, low vacuum. Replaced all the vacuum lines, new map sensor and EGR solenoid, checked voltage at the sensors to make sure wiring was ok and it is, replaced the EGR solenoid pigtail from the Painless harness since it wasn't seating fully, and took off the new GM EGR valve I had put on back in February and cleaned it, and then made sure it was torqued down so the gasket sealed correctly, and hooked up the vacuum hose to the brake booster. Engine runs better now and doesn't stall and no code, but still has a slightly rough idle and sputters a bit. Going to reset the base timing and see if that's the issue. Also wondering if the EGR valve itself is the right one. I also don't have a vacuum canister hooked up to the throttle body, so I'm considering adding one to see if that helps. After that, I may have to take it to a shop to get it fine tuned. I'm not a mechanic, just a guy working on my truck in my driveway, so there's a limit to my knowledge and skills. No harm in that, it is what it is.