First build, 1953 pickup
 

Here is a picture of the day I bough my truck, December 1995. I started the rebuild in 2002, and with the exception of some work I managed to do during welding classes, the rest of the work has all been done in our two car garage. I will try to document here what I have done so far. And here is a summary of the truck:
Frame is original, boxed in front, Fatman MII front end, power disc brakes (MC under floor), all new brake lines, original crossmember adapted for trans support, rear axle from a Lincoln Mark VII (Ford 8.8), 90’s S10 Blazer gas tank under the bed.
I originally installed a 305/700R4, but I ended up stealing that engine for a ‘87 longbed, was replaced with a 4.8 engine and trans out of a 2002 truck.
The cab floor was all rusty, that was one of the projects I was able to complete while taking a welding class at the Community College. The steering column came from a 70’s Chevy van, had to shorten it to fit.
I have driven the truck out of our driveway and in our street. It moves, it stops, and nothing has fallen off so far 🤣. I am now in the headache of reassembling the front clip.


I tried to load current pictures of the truck but as they upload they get turned sideways. I appreciate if you let me know how to fix that!

Thank you for letting me share your space!

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

Here is a picture of the truck today. Close, but not quite finished yet

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

heck yeah, nothing like a long-term driving project

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

In 2002, I sold the 235 engine and 3 speed. I removed the front clip and figured that was all the disassembly I would need to do!

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

But as it often happens, one thing led to another and I ended up disassembling the whole truck. I built a “cart” to roll the frame in and out of the garage and also to mount it on my little utility trailer. I boxed the front rails and put a Fatman MII crossmember.

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

I had to patch some rusty places, put motor mounts, I was able to modify the crossmember to serve as trans support. Adapted a gas tank (with internal fuel pump) from. 90s S10 Blazer.

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

Love the direction you're going with this build!

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

Here is a picture of the gas tank installed and connected. I used the straps from the Blazer too. My plan (I have not done that yet) is to have the gas filler in the left rear fender.

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

I have tried to keep the firewall as clean as possible, so the power brakes booster and MC had to go under the cab. The original crossmember (and trans support) was in the way so I had to notch it a little bit

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

The cab floor was a big rusty mess. I cut it all out and put angle iron to reinforce and built it from sheet metal. I did this as my project while taking a welding class, I am very proud of how the hump came out, I just made a pattern and used a manual bending machine to tweak it into shape. Once I got the cab home I recruited a few neighbors to lay it on its back, I replaced a rusty cab mount then painted the underside with POR15

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

The bottom of the doors was all rusted through, so I cut it out and put new sheet metal

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

I mentioned earlier I wanted to keep the firewall as clean as possible, so I filled all the holes and did my best to smooth it out. I will have to drill some holes for heater and AC hoses, that will come later

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

Watching! :c2:

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

The tilt steering column came from a ‘70s Chevy van, I wanted the ignition switch to stay in the dash. But steering shaft was way too long, and the shifter arm was also too far down. To shorten it, it had to be disassembled, the outer sleeve, the inner tube for the shifter, and the steering shaft all had to be chopped.

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

I mentioned before this is my first build. I learned by doing and by reading magazines, and I owe a debt of gratitude to many authors. Here is my little contribution, a simple milling machine I used to grind the round steering shafts (0.75” diam.) to the “double D” shape, which meant grinding two sides flat until it measured 0.55” thick. It uses an angle grinder mounted on a “swing arm”. A bolt at the end of that arm brings it up as needed. I found a little chunk of rectangular tube (probably 1”x2”, 1/8”) that with a little tack helped me keep the shaft from rotating on top of my welding table, the shaft gets moved back and forth to grind it, then it gets flipped to grind a little on the other side. Do that gradually until it measures 0.55”

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

Looks great, ton of work you did there!

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

MOTOR
I wanted a fuel injected engine, ideally a TPI small block Chevy. But a wrecked ‘89 Camaro came available, with a TBI 305, 700R4, so that is what I used. But before too long, I needed that engine and trans for an ‘87 longbed I had just bought. So it was a good excuse to upgrade to LS. There is a shop in Paragould, Arkansas that specializes in low-mileage truck engines, they sell the complete package, clean, ready. I purchased a 4.8 with trans, and I was able to install with the same mounts I had already in the frame

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

REAR AXLE
I originally used the Camaro axle, but one day I found this Lincoln at the local U Pull It, it’s a 8.8, Traction-Loc, 3.27, disc brakes, this is the axle currently on the truck

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

if you wanna have all the wheels with the same bolt pattern you could try a drill jig tool

https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/wheel-...ill-guide-jig/

https://www.hellsgatehotrods.com/pro.../drill-guides/

I had an 8.8 from an explorer in a frame I built. I redrilled the axles for the chevy 5 on 4.75 because the MII front end was set up for that. I made my own pattern and jig from the flange cut off a used rotor I also qauired at pick n pull with the axle. it's not that tough to do.

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

Thank you dsraven. It definitely would be convenient to have the same bolt pattern in all four corners, but for now I am using what I have, chrome steel wheels that luckily have the two bolt patterns. A coworker sold them to me for $50 !!

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

The behind-the-dash brace
Classic Trucks magazine (RIP) published several very interesting, practical articles by a gentleman named Mike Briggs. One had to do with building a brace behind the dash that could serve to mount things like the fuse panel, relays, wiper motor, AC fan/evaporator. Since I like the firewall to be smooth with no protruding bolts and screws, I really liked his idea. I built mine from 1” square tubing, and the side mounts from 1” angle iron. It mounts inside on the same bolts that fix the hood spring on the other side of the firewall, and I added one more mounting point in the center for stability. The last picture shows the brace with the fuse panel already mounted, the other tabs are to mount the wiper motor and AC

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

I said earlier that I have learned by reading magazines and books, and this guy is at the top of my list, Leroi “Tex” Smith (RIP). I was attending a car show in Lincoln Nebraska (maybe 30 years ago) and he had a booth selling his books and his magazine Hot Rod Mechanix. Prince of a guy, he walked out with me to the parking lot to pose next to his car, the “Dollar-a-pound” roadster, a truly homemade, low buck build he did for the magazine.

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FRONT SUSPENSION REDO
The pictures of the truck show I used the original MII stamped metal control arms and struts. As I started to try to adjust the camber, I discovered the rear of the upper arm would bump against the frame, therefore camber could not be adjusted.

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

Tubular control arms from Jegs are now installed. But there is no such thing as “plug and play”. Steering rack had to be moved forward, requiring clearancing in the front crossmember, the steering shaft is now too short, the u-joint at the rack hits the left engine mount, and the sway bar is now on the wrong place. Other than that, everything is great!

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

It's a never ending project. That's why my license plate is NVRDONE

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

Thank you NVRDONE. I recall in the suggestions and recommendations that came with the Fatman Fabrications MII kit, keeping it simple, regular (no vacuum assist) brakes and manual steering. I should have listened! It took several weeks and three different attempts to finally have a steering high-pressure hose that would fit and would not leak

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

Making some progress, I was able to grind a little clearance in the lower part of the motor mount, now the shaft and the joint turn freely. I used the “homemade double-D machine” to make the slightly longer shaft

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Allrighty, the suspension is all in and the lower A arms almost, almost horizontal. I am going to leave it there for a few days to see if it settles down.

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

I like the original gauges, and have modified the case to use the gauge mechanisms from a late 80’s Camaro. I drilled the button in the middle to add the Check Engine light. I made overlays based on the restauration decals commercially available.

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

nice.
all that little stuff taks forever to get done right, but it's good when it's finished.

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

I mentioned earlier I am using a 1992 S10 Blazer tank. The tank itself is a new replacement, but the fuel gauge / fuel pump structure is original 1992. I checked the fuel gauge sender when I added the Walbro 255 pump, everything worked ok. A couple of weeks ago I went to crank the engine and immediately noticed the whirrrr sound from the fuel pump was gone. I was bummed that the Walbro had crapped out with less than one hour running time, but the pump was fine, it was the corrosion in the pins of this little connector on top of the tank. The ground wire showed completely open, no conductivity whatsoever. A good cleaning and she is back running good.

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

good troubleshooting to find that issue. thanks for the pics too.
I remember doing a fuel pump on a grand prix. the fella limped in after it wouldn't start. when he phones I told him to whack the tank a few times with a broom handle or a stick, to set up some vibrations, then try again, it worked and i advised him to keep it running till it was inside my shop.
long story short, i got the old pump out of the tank and found the wires inside the tank, from the inside connection point down to the fuel pump, were actually fried and the insulation was cooked right off. bare wires with a burnt pvc coating. that would have caused a little excitement had anything gone sideways
I have also found quite a few GM fuel pumps with a bad ground wire where it connects to the truck frame or car unibody. sometimes fixing that has saved me draining and dopping the full tank (they're always full when the in -tank pump quits, lol)

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

I try to figure ways to save money on my build. I am retired and do not have unlimited resources. So, allow me to introduce my eBay score, a $10 electronic speedometer. It appears it was never installed, but it had no instructions whatsoever, and although the brand sounds well known, there is absolutely no information anywhere on the web about how to install it, or how to calibrate it.

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

So I spent $60 having the Speedo checked by a specialized shop in California. They told me the speedo works, and told me what wire was 12v, what was ground and what goes to the VSS. There are two other wires I have no idea what they are for. But the speedo was very easy to adapt to the trim rings in the truck, and miraculously, it works, and it appears the calibration is almost right on the money. Sorry for the tilted pictures, I have no idea why they get tilted when I upload them

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

Good chance one is a power for back light and other is a ground for back light? No other functions on the gauge, right?

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

Sorry, there is a highball indicator there too. Disregard the ground circuit cuz it already covered or other stuff wouldn't work.

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

Hi dsraven, thank you for the input. There are two holes in back for lights, and one hole for the hi-beam indicator in the middle. So I don’t think the extra wires are for lighting.
It appears this speedo was made for large trucks, so maybe those extra wires could be for some function depending on speed? Or, you know how some of those trucks had a two-speed rear axle, so maybe some correction for that? In any case, it appears I do not need those extra wires, the speedo and the odometer are working. There are 10 dip switches in the back, I will figure how to use those to adjust if needed
I know most aftermarket speedos go to 160 mph or more! I don’t expect I will ever go past 85 mph so I’m good 😊

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

Progress report, I connected the speedo according to the instructions from the speedometer shop, amazingly, it worked, and it even appears to be pretty close to calibration!

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

A little info on lighting; the two bulbs in the back of the quad gauge just did not provide adequate light. I painted the inside of the box silver, and I found a 12V LED “tape” which I glued to the perimeter.

Re: First build, 1953 pickup
 

I had to put a 100 ohm resistor in the LED feed line because it was too bright. I am pleased with the result!