Lowered Truck Question
 

I have a ECE 4/6 drop on my truck and want to go a lot lower. I am thinking about using the Air Ride front A-arms in the front and using bridges in the back to get it low. I am looking for detailed descriptions and pix of lowered trucks. I am trying to decide rather to keep the original trailing arms or going with a 4-link set-up. I am also wondering where the best place to mount the bags to get the most movement of the suspension. I want to go really low but still be able to drive my truck. I am considering a good suspension and a small body drop. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanx

I Did Not Know That Airide's A-arms Were Available Yet. I Checked Last Week And They Told Me Another 30 Days.

I haven't bought any parts, that is just my plan right now.

Let's see some pic's. I'm wanting to bag my truck but it's to pricey for me right now. Here is a link to see my truck. I think it's lower than 4/6.
http://www.ctwtrucks.com/2low72/

Take a look at slammed 67's web site on his gmc he has a pretty good write up and pic's on his truck..

How much lower do you want to go? The AirRide arms I've seen look like some quality pieces.... unfortunately, they don't make them for the 63-87 suspension yet. I've heard they're a month out for a couple of months now. When I spoke w/Darren @ AirRide, word is they still haven't started them. Knowing that, a month for fabrication to production is extremely optimistic.

For the front, I used 2.5" spindles w/1 coil cut from the factory 30yr old springs. This combo dropped my truck almost 6". With 215/75/15's up front on 15x6.5" van ralleys, I buzz the top of the inner-fenderwells on some dips (but only if going too fast). For normal roads it doesn't rub. I installed a 73-87 1 1/16 sway bar w/eurathane bushings & trimmed the factory bumpstops 1/2 ".

For the rear, if you want to get it low but still use it like a truck, go w/air bags. I used Firestone 224C's (approx 25-2600#) bolted directly to the trailing arms & added 1.5" lowering blocks from Classic Perf Products. This requires relocating the shocks for more travel & installing a c-section (I got mine from CPP). At normal ride height (30psi is my preference), my axle tube rides about an inch into the bottom of the framerail. When I hook up my car hauler, I air it up to about 60-70psi which returns the truck to unloaded ride height & adds an inch for extra travel. The c-sections allow more travel than the bed floor does in my case....the top of the pumpkin occasionally hits the bed floor (again usually only on dips @ too high of a speed).

I've used this truck daily for 3+ yrs w/o problems. Any lower & I would have to lose or raise the front inner wheelwells & cut out the bed floor.

Scoti,

Thanx for the info. I am not going to start actually working on my truck for a year, as I am deploying overseas. I want to get an idea and maybe buy some parts while I am gone. I may try and get my brother to do some of the work for me while I am gone. He and my dad own a auto repair shop with alignment equipment. I definitely plan to bag my truck at all 4 corners. I am also considering raising my bed floor until the wheel wells are even with the bed rails. This should give me at least 4 inches more clearance in the rear. The biggest thing I can't figure out is, if I put bridges in the back, will the stock trailing arms work for a really big drop or if I should go with a 4 link to work better. I think the trailing arms my put the rearend at a bad angle once I get so low. I am also thinking about getting ECE's new crossmember and flipping the trailing arm mounts upside down to raise the point at which the trailing arms attach.

Yes, once it gets extremely low the factory angles will be compromised. Flipping the trailing arm mounts is a good idea & if you can fabricate your 'bridges', you can re-weld new trailing arm mounts to also improve pinion angle.