A few questions about shortning a frame..
 

Since the 68 got hit, and I am removing the entire front clip and removing both doors for replacement, I am going to do the short bed conversion while I am fixing everything else. I have a good handle on how to do the bed, but have a couple of questions on the frame.

1] Do the SWB 2wd trucks use a one or two piece driveshaft?

2] If it is a one piece, what happens with the crossmember that the carrier bearing now bolts to on my two piece driveshaft?

3] There is a set of "perches" on top of the frame that the bed sits on, but does not bolt to. They are directly behind the cab. Are those removed and discarded?

That is all I can think of right now. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get deeper into this new endevor.

Thanks!! Bob

2 wheel drive short beds use a 2 piece drive shaft also. ebfabman has some pics of shortening the frame on his website. I'll see if I can post a link.

the best way to go from long to shortbed is to buy a short frame and bedsides if you think you're going to hack your long bedsides into short ones 97% of the attempts i've seen ended up in the dumpster or should have

If you don't know about this site already... here it is, I hope
http://ebfabman.com

Early classic has got a great site too!!! check it out

http://www.earlyclassic.com/techarti...tapr03pg1.html

The basics as I racall are that 12" comes out from under the cab ahead of the cross member where the control arms and center bearing bolt to on a coil truck and only the center bearing bolts to on a leaf truck. Relocate the rear cab mounts on the frame to the new location and then lose 8" off the very tail end of the frame. Somebody please correct me if I'm mistaken

thats right Ray. ECE's website has a step by step article on this

The quickest and easiest way for me to aquire a short frame is to cut mine, that will be a piece of cake. I will be using new bedsides, so no fear there.

I know about the 12" and 8" on the frame, so does that mean that the same amounts will come off of the same places on the floor?

Thanks!!

First a question----when switching to a one-piece driveline on a short box, what happens to that cross member?

Also, Bob I know of a '71-'72 2 wheel drive shortbox frame in Montana. It's just the rolling frame with nothing on it. If he still has it, I think he wanted $400 for it. If you're interested, I could email him and see if he still has it. Let me know.

I just pulled my bed last night so here is a pic of the mounts for a short stepside. Both of my short wheelbase trucks have one-piece drivelines so they were probably converted if two piece was stock on short wheelbase trucks. The trailing arm mount/center bearing mount has to be moved forward of the rear cab mounts once you cut the 12 inches from behind the cab.

Stlookn my understanding is that the 12 is removed from under the cab which ends up placing the cross member under the cab and then the rear cab mounts are moved back 12". Everything I've ever read on it always specifies it this way.

Correct. The 12" is usually removed just forward of the rear cab mount. I got another 72 lwb rolling chassis that I will be cutting in the next week or two. I noticed that where I will be removing the 12" there is a VIN number stamped. So I will be using a modified version of ebfabman's technique to shorten it without hampering with the VIN number.

I will post pics as I progress on this. Also, I am gonns do a wood floor, so I will be getting all new parts for that.

I agree, theres plenty of frames out there. Just have to find one near you.

here are a couple pics

hacking 8" off the back
http://www.earlyclassic.com/images/cctapr03pg2img3.jpg

Taking 12" from the center
http://www.earlyclassic.com/images/cctapr03pg2img8.jpg

and re-installing the rear cab mount
http://www.earlyclassic.com/images/cctapr03pg3img14.jpg

Hence the problem, can't find one near me.

Besides, I like a challange. I could travel a few hundred miles and buy one, but I don't want to do that. This will be a painless job to do. Helluva lot easier than the welding and fabrication I do for a living!


dubie - Thanks for the pics. I printed out that artice from ECE's website awhile back, great reference! The one problem I have with that method on mine is that it would remove the VIN number from the frame, and I want to leave that intact. I am going to do a modified version of ebfabman's technique.

The new bedsides should be here today or monday, and the new cross sills shortly thereafter!

StingRay, DOH! My mistake..."if it weren't for all the mistakes I made, this would be a parttime job"...LOL!

Have you found a supplier to supply all the cross sills to build a complete swb fleetside box?? All I have is a tailgate and box front. I also ordered Goodmark box sides.

I am doing the exact same frame shortning exercise as you are. I gave up on finding a decent swb fleetside in alberta, so I'm making my own out of 2 different trucks :D

Good Luck.

Get a catalog from Chevy Duty www.chevyduty.com They seem to have the best prices and all the parts needed, like the cross sills, reinforcement strip, rear sill, bolts, strips, and wood.

I ordered all new metal for my entire truck from www.carolinaclassictrucks.com Ryan has wheel tubs for $75 if I remember correctly, and new bed front panels for $120. All of his metal is drop shipped directly from Goodmark in GA.