headlight bulb options
 

I've seen the listings on e-bay for the "DIAMOND HEADLIGHTS" (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33710) and wondered if they are any good. What other options are there for brighter headlights? I've got the stock externally regulated alternator and I don't want to change that right now.

A lot of people seem to reccomend doing the relay thing, using the original wiring to operate a seperate relay for each headlamp with it's own heavy duty feed from the battery thus cutting down voltage drop in all the wiring and switches etc. I think there may be something in the FAQ section.

I have done that only a few weeks ago, it's a world of difference!!
Headlights are much brighter now.
I used the info from the Mad Electrical site. Real good reading stuff.
Check it out: MAD

Cya,
Edmond
:metal:

****************.com has a H4 headlamp conversion kit for sale, you have to download the catalog to find it. DOT approved, which is important.

in reality, installing high powerd headlights is kinda like taking a shower, and putting on dirty underwear. it helps, but the problem is still there.

The high powered lights will only work so good with the reduces power. The stock set up, in perfect condition, will only get 12 volts to the lights at very best. Normally it is more like 11.5 volts.
You wire up a relay, and then you are getting the full alt power to the lamps. 14.5 or what ever. (since you have the stock alt set up, call it 14 volts)
The difference is really night and day, and that is before adding the high powerd bulbs.

so, how do us idiots wire them up to get that to work. :confused:

Check the Mad Electrical Site, it's very helpfull.
I learned a lot from that site.

Cya,
Edmond
:metal:

TOOK A LOOKY, SAW NO DIAGRAMS, ONLY GOOD INFO. :confused:

i will try an explain. on a relay you will have 4 wires going to it.
1 constant power
2 switched power
3 power out
4 ground

the first wire you pull off of a fuse block. the second wire would be your wire that turns the head lights on, you would cut that at the relay and it would signal the relay to close and draw from the constant power. the power out it the other half of the wire that goes from the switch to the lights. and 4 is ground. Make any sense???
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...tuff/relay.bmpok i drew a picture. see why i dont do photoshop???

On my 72, I installed Hella H4's with 50/100watt bulbs, no problems with alternator output. Doesnt even dim the interior lights when they are on, voltmeter stays at 14 volts even at idle and its the original external regulator and alternator. It is much much brighter than the stock sealed beams. Get a quality brand name light, they work the best, I got these lights for my 73 Corolla, used them on a 76 Landcruiser FJ40, and now are on my 72 C20. I got them about ten years ago and they were about $40 a piece. I got some sheapo diamond clear lights for my 74 Datsun wagon, they are better than stock but not near as bright as a true Hella conversion.

are those reading off of the battery or alternator? cause if you take measurements down at the head light plug i bet its lower that 14

It was off an Autometer voltmeter that takes the reading off the fuse block on a empty slot. I know it would be even better with a relay, but if its bright enough now I dont need to put a relay in it. Its not my daily driver either, and dont drive it at night much anyway.

If you are all original, you are less than 12 volts at the lights. No way around it.
Updating th headlights with stock harnesses will increase the load on the already overloaded wires and switches. (How many times have you seen/heard of melted wires on the plug of the light switch or dimmer switch?)

Also, I'm willing to bet, that if you placed a multi meter at that same slot where your guage is plugged in, it is less than 14 volts...more like 12 to 13 volts. I have noticed many (not all) after market volt guages read a volt higher to compensate for the voltage drop in the vehicle harnesses. If it does read actual voltage, then it would read low, and make the customer worry about there charging system, and to wire it up correctly would even require another relay.

Everyone has made a good case for installing relays. I totally agree. What amp rating relay is needed to run the headlights?

I just mob with my highbeams on all the time - - heh heh heh

a light bulb will operate at any voltage. but the less voltage the dimmer it is. the more voltage the brighter it is. but dont go over the volt rating for the bulb because then you force too much heat on to the element and it burns out. just try it on an adjustable battery charger. al voltages work but once you put in on the 'jump start' or 'boost' the light will be really bright for 2-3 seconds and burn out. trust me. hehehe

... and what about HID?
 

This is great information. MAD has lots of useful technical info! Not to hijack the thread, but what about HID lighting systems? Does the alternator put out enough juice to power them?

most true HID blub systems come with ballasts the change it from 12 volt to whatever is needed to run the bulb. my friend had HID out of a Benz in his truck. they went right into his H4s. didnt have quite the same effect since it wasnt coming out of a projector. you also dont have high beams(atleast in a chevy, you could in a gmc)

This is some good info and i am in the market for some headlights right now and had a few questions.

I went with a painless harness so do i still need to do the relay you guys are talking about to get the output i need or would the painless harness be set up so i wouldnt need a relay?

Headlights, what would be the max wattage i would want to go with before having heat issues?

i just kept all my stuff the same and installed the silverstar replacement lights... world of difference.. and they have that blueish white color instead of yellow... well worth it.. just plug and play...

Here is an old post on relays and a wiring diagram:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=92228
Also for greyhound, yes relay would work better painless is just replacement wiring not necessarily an upgrade.

I just replaced the mis-matched set of sealed beams the PO put on my truck with the H4 conversion from ****************.com. I tried with and without a relay and didn't notice any significant change in brightness.
BTW I also have the original external regulator system on my truck but I recently rewired the system and put all new terminals/pigtails because of previous intermittent charging problems..

what watt bulbs do you have and what brand? when i first got my H4s i was running PIAA superwhite 80/80s, but since i havent been able to find them i have stepped down to the 60/55s. the only bulb i run is PIAA, they make nighttime bright. and the relay thing helps alot too

They're listed in the catalog as:

67-72 exc.GMC H4 conversion setup DOT approved (includes 2 glass housings and 2 H4 bulbs), no modifications are needed.

I'm guessing they're 55/60 watt bulbs but I don't know the specific brand. They do have a "blueish" tint to them which I have yet to decide on whether or not I like...

He is a link to HID lights http://www.slickcar.com/productdetai...ProductID=1327 starting at $409