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Shackle Flip Question
If I Use A Offroad Design Shakle Flip With A Zero Rate In The Back Would You Guys Recommend Useing 4'' Tuff Country Ezee Rides Or 3". Any Info Would Be Much Appreciated. I've Read Some Posts That Say They Have Used A Straight 4'' And Some That Have Said It Sags. Thanks
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Welcome to the board.
How much lift are you going for? What's your primary use going to be? |
:welcome2: TO THE BOARD FROM WEST 10-UH-C :hi:
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Thanks for the welcome. There is so much good info on the board. I have 33X12.50 tires to put under it. It is going to be mostly a street driver so I'm just looking for a level looking ride if it is 3'' or 4'' of total lift I don't care.
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MINE HAS A OFFSET LIFT, THE PO (PREVIOUS OWNER) SAID HE DID IT TO OFFSET THE WEIGHT OF THE HARD TOP, HERE IS A PIC. ;) |
A lot of guys run 4" in front and 6" in back to achieve "level". The other way to go is run a full 4" spring lift with ORD zero rates in back. The zero rates add approx. 1" of lift. I think Yukon Jack might be running them.
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Bouncy truck what are you running on your 69 with the 35's? if you don't mind me asking
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I've read that the ORD shackle flip gives you about 5 inches in the back. Then the zero rate would give you another inch. I think I would go with the 3 inchers in the front for it to be level.
On my blazer, I have 6 inch springs in the back with a 1 inch zero rate for 7 inches. That sits perfect with my 4 inch springs in the front. Before the zero rate block, the back was a little saggy. If you haven't found it yet, ColoradoK5 is pretty much the place for info on lifting, offroad, etc and blazers. |
I guess maybe I won't use a shackle flip and just use springs front and back with a zero rate to level things out. I just want to make sure before i order because I don't want to order the wrong setup. The info so far has helped tremendously. If anybody else has an opinion please let me know. Thanks soooo much. :)
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Mine Pictured Above Has,
4" Front Springs 6" Rear Springs 35 X 12.5 X 15 Bfg's |
2 Attachment(s)
My '69 has a 6" Rancho lift with rear blocks installed by the PO. Not the greatest, but it does sit basically level. My '72 has a bit of the squatty butt syndrome, but I like the pseudo-stock look of it.
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I'm still trying to get you some pics of my blazer, BUFFB. Probably by this evening.
I looked really hard at the shackle flip route, but in the end I decided to just spend a little bit more and go with the all spring setup. Mostly, I was worried about the condition of my old 30 year old rear springs. I'm sure they were saggy, and I did not want the saggy butt look. I bought a tuff country 4 inch spring lift from Suspension Connection. I was really worried about getting 6 inch springs for the back. When I called them, the assured me that the 4 inch kit for 67-72 includes 4 inch springs for the front and 6 inch springs for the back. When I got the kit, that was the deal. So, don't sweat that part. When I got it all together, I had 2 problems. I had some drive line vibes and it was a little saggy in the back. So, I took care of both by ordering a 1 inch zero rate block with 3 degrees milled in it. That set my pinion angle right and fixed the saggy butt. I got the block from JW Offroad I think. He is one of the guys on ColoradoK5 and a great guy to work with. My suggestion would be to get the tuff country spring lift, put it on and see how it sits. If you don't like it zero rates or even lift blocks are always an option in the back. Also, other things to keep in mind when lifting. Most people will tell you that their drive lines worked just fine. Not so with me. I had to get both lengthened. Not terribly expensive, but another cost. Also, I still have not figured out what to do with my e-brake cables. They won't reach from the rear axle to the old brackets. I have had no luck finding longer ones, so I might just weld an extension on the brackets to make them work. |
BUFFB,
Here are some pics of my blazer. These are terrible and don't really show you the stance, but it is the best I could do right now. http://www.scrubbydeer.com/blazer/images/blazer11.jpg http://www.scrubbydeer.com/blazer/images/blazer12.jpg |
Welcome to the board from southern oregon..
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THANKS FOR THE PICTURES SCRUBBY THAT WILL HELP ALOT. :metal:
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By the way Scruuby I see you are from Boise. I have quite a few friends out there. I don't know if you've heard of Chris Horn from Caldwell, but he plays for the Kansas City Chiefs and I played ball with him College. Anyway it's a great place. Thanks again for the info
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Just for another data point, here is my setup:
Rear: ORD 4" Shackle Flip, New Stock height Rough Country springs, ORD 1" Zero Rates. Front: New Tough Country 4" springs, ORD HD Shackles (little longer than stock.) I have the top on and and a winch in front and it still sags a bit to the rear. Everyone's seems to come out a bit different, but if I were to do it again, I'd keep it all the same but 3" springs in the front. It would sit pretty level then. I like the height of the rear with the 33's. BTW, I had to have both drivelines lengthened with this setup. |
Want It Level
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:metal: iI installed 3" national spring soft ride spring packs at all 4 corners W/ rancho 9000 . No blocks anywhere!With no trimming(as yet) easily fits my pro-comp 35x12.5-16 on 90' Z71 OEM wheels .Used spyder-trac 1" billet spacers and front 2 centers bord out for locking hubs. Fit perfect. I qwn a 72 K10( fyi-71&72 were offerd as heavy half 5/8 ton i.e. K10 ) as wel as 1/2 ton K5's.P.S THIS SITE IS AMAZING !!!! TO ALL WHO PATICIPATE THANKS LOTS!!!!! I SURE WISH I KNEW ABOUT it 6yrs SOONER
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I'm not sure of the exact designation for a heavy half but I know they exist. My 71 Jimmy I found out is a heavy half. Just replaced all brake components, ie rotors, drums etc. And the half ton stuff was too small. I had to go back and they sourced heavy half parts for me. Exact fit. My brakes are huge compared to the half ton stuff.
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