How to R&R Front driveshaft on a 72 3/4 ton 4x4?
 

Stock height, original NP205, D44 FE. I need to remove the front driveshaft and replace it. I have a good donor. My question relates to how best to remove it. I've taken them out before, but always after removing the cab during a teardown. I know the u-joint bolts on the NP205 side are hard to get to even with unrestricted access. Who has pulled and replaced the front driveshaft from under the vehicle? I'd like a few pointers on how best to approach this task. Keep in mind, I'll be on my back under it, no lift here.

Thanks

I allways start with the yoke at the transfer case first and use a prybar or large screwdriver through the front yoke to turn and hold the shaft in place. If your lucky you will have the 7/16" head bolts at the TC , just use the shortest wrench you have, if your exhuast is run through the crossmember it can get real tight. If you do have the 7/16" bolts you can use a ratcheting wrench but if you have the 1/2" head there wont be enough room.

It's a pain even on lifted vehicles. My front output seal is leaking and in my situation I'm going to remove the crossmember. If you can remove the hump that would make it easier.

Did mine recently on my back in the carport. Unbolted the front crossmember & moved it out of the way (only way I could get to the nuts at the TC end of the shaft). Then I just unbolted the rear of the shaft, then the front. Bit of a PITA, it just went slowly due to limited access.

Come on, guys. Not to brag, but it isn't that tough as long as the bolt heads are not chewed up from the last guy. If the bolt heads are buried in guuk, take a right angle pick & dig them out before you round them off. I use the lockouts to position it where I want it, and wrench the two bolts at the top. It takes a little arm twisting and dexterity. Once you get them broke loose with a long wrench, you can work them out quick with a stubby wrench. Reach over & spin a lockout to position it to get the other two bolts. Once you get the hang of it, you can R&R one in about 1/2 an hour. :metal:

Well, mine had never been touched, so nothing was chewed up from the last guy. And I did not round anything off. But I could not see any way at all to reach anything with the crossmember in place, so I moved it (which is not difficult). For me, the easy access made it worthwhile. YMMV

Jeffspower's advice is spot on. What makes it easier than it looks is the bolts screw into the yoke that takes the CV joint cross. They're little and fairly short. Initial bolt head cleanliness will greatly ease the task. IIRC, I used an offset box-end wrench in the backward position to make the handle angle away from the xfer case.