Early Classic panhard bar bracket hits frame when slammed ??????
 

I was just bolting my frame together today, and I noticed that the new adjustable panhard rod setup is already giving me problems. If I let the suspension right down, (no air in bags) the differential won't even get close to going right up into the C-notch. The bracket that is sandwiched between the trailing arm and the diff hits the frame first.

Now I know some of you must have ran into this already. What have you done to fix this? I am assuming that I will need to make a new bracket of some sort.

Do you guys have any pics or ideas I could try?


Thanks!

get a set of lowering b;pcks for the rear, it will not only lower it more but it will act as a spacer between the rear axle and panhard bar bracket. There was a couple of other things guys have done but search is not working now so im sure they will chime in soon.

I have seen pics of this before and I have seen it fixed a couple of different ways. I have seen blocks used with a bracket added to the inside of the passenger side for the arm. This moves your bar from behind the arm where it hits your frame, to next to it so the axle moves on into your notch. I have also seen pics of where people have made their notch bigger to clear the track bar. I'm sure someone will post some pics of both of these mods. TTT for you.

Slammed67 is the guy you need to talk to.

I really don't want to weld a bracket on the inside of the trailing arm, as I am not sure if this woiuld pass a DOT inspection. I was thinking of making some sort of bracket, similar to the Early Classic one, but opposite so the instead of going up towards the frame, it would drop down beside the trailing arm. Not sure how to reinforce it yet though.

To fix the problem, they either stretch the length of the 'notch' so that it clears the 'offending' bracket, or re-locate the bracket.

If you don't want to weld a bracket to your trailing arm, you could bend some .1875 or .250" steel to wrap around the top & bottom of the trailing arm. Drill holes the same spacing as the u-bolts & mount the steel (bracket) under the rear (sandwiching the trailing arm), put the u-bolt back in & your bracket is captured on both the top & bottom. Weld the tabs needed for the panhard bar end to this new piece of steel. You'll need to add an equivalent sized spacer to the drivers side to keep things level.

A board member hinted about possibly producing some 'c-notches' that would eliminate this issue but I'm not sure how serious he was.

Classic Performace products has a 2'' block that will take care of your problem, no welding. that's what i have on mine i think the 1.5'' would work also.
Here's a pic from there website

sorry about the worng side but I have the early classiscs super track bar on in this pic it clears just fine that sa little less than 2 inches, just an old adujustable djm block kit scott had kickin around.http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL212/...5/70340873.jpg

slammed 66 how much total drop are you getting out of that setup

The only problem I have with using a block over lengthening the c-notch is depending what wheel-tire combo You have,with a flat the u-bolt and trailing arm will dig into the road instead of running on the tire.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...id=68427&stc=1

LOL thats my truck.....that was a mock up before I added the wedge, you have to cut off the extra length of u-bolt when your done. Slammed67 welded the brackets to the trailering arms and It work out great(thats were I learned to correct the problem). If you dont want to weld to the trailering arms or use a block like me, then make it from a peice of angle bar and slide it between the trailering arm and the perch. Just like the ECE only reversed, so the brackets layover and parallel with the trailering arm instead of above the arm

Here is the problem....

http://www.jayspot.com/images/truck/notch3.jpg

Here is my solution....

http://www.jayspot.com/images/truck/notch6after.jpg

I'd recommend making a longer bracket because on mine the track bar end is adjusted out almost all the way.

Nortwest auto fab makes this nice on that looks like it will work. I just ordered some pullies and an alt bracket from them.....they make some neet stuff...http://www.nwautofab.com/store/custo...5&cat=4&page=1

I just stretched my notch a little when I ran into this problem. And I am using CPP's 2 inch blocks too.