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-   -   Wood bed replacement (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=159698)

Broken_down? 06-11-2005 01:20 PM

Wood bed replacement
 
How diffcult is it to replace the wood in a 68 chevy Long Bed?

Sillyoldman 06-11-2005 03:41 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Heres a couple pics. Was not fun at all, but rewarding non the less. Was not hard, but it was hard work.

demi 06-11-2005 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sillyoldman
Heres a couple pics. Was not fun at all, but rewarding non the less. Was not hard, but it was hard work.

I couldn't agree more. I would say it's well worth the effort.

Trial fitting of the bed:
http://www.gmbdesign.com/Truck/Fitup.jpg

After the strips were painted:

http://www.gmbdesign.com/Truck/Strips.jpg

Sanding and prefinishing wood:

http://www.gmbdesign.com/Truck/Sanding.jpg

Finally completed:

http://www.gmbdesign.com/Truck/Final.jpg

demi

70 shorty 06-11-2005 08:22 PM

Aw, come on guys, Stacy David made is look so easy on Truck TV, it cant be that hard! ;)

TN70C10 06-12-2005 10:12 AM

Any problem converting a non wood bed to a wood bed?

LUV2XCLR8 06-12-2005 10:37 AM

:c2: NICE PIC'S :c2:

FRENCHBLUE72 06-12-2005 11:40 AM

Beautiful Truck You Have There Demi....

ChevyDude 06-12-2005 12:17 PM

Just love the wood beds!!!!

Richard Dobson 06-13-2005 01:12 PM

Just curious, How would you do it to a truck that's mounted on the frame (with a floor that needs to be replaced) but the bed has 4 year old paint job, which would make it difficult to lay on the side. Could you just leave the bed resting on just the front bed panel and the rear sill, remove the wood and replace?

Sillyoldman 06-13-2005 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard Dobson
Just curious, How would you do it to a truck that's mounted on the frame (with a floor that needs to be replaced) but the bed has 4 year old paint job, which would make it difficult to lay on the side. Could you just leave the bed resting on just the front bed panel and the rear sill, remove the wood and replace?

Hi Richard.

It was nessesary to take the bed off. In fact it went down to pieces. Laying it on its side was just something I found made it easier for me while I either drilled or ground the heads off each and every bolt. The nuts had crispy 34 YO undercoating on them and they recess up into the cross sills. I did not see much alternative.

demi 06-13-2005 04:39 PM

Richard,

I did exactly what you want to do. I removed the wood with the bed resting on the frame. In the pic, the arrows point to a 3/4 in. piece bolted to the sides on the cross supports. Because I'm in Az, the bolts were easily removed with just a 3/8 ratchet and a socket I made for the 4pt nut. However, I did need to break one off with the impact. I didn't have the room to actually remove the bed, so this is why I went this route.

Before the final prep work and paint, the bed was then taken off. After the truck was painted, the bed was placed back on the frame and then the floor was assembled.

http://www.gmbdesign.com/Truck/Bed1.jpg

demi

HuggerCST 06-13-2005 04:41 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Sillyoldman & Demi- Just curious what kind of wood you used, and what you finished it with. I just got through cutting & grooving mine, (white oak) and am shopping for something to color & seal it with. I would like for it to come out something like this. (see pic)

demi 06-13-2005 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HuggerCST
Sillyoldman & Demi- Just curious what kind of wood you used, and what you finished it with. I just got through cutting & grooving mine, (white oak) and am shopping for something to color & seal it with. I would like for it to come out something like this. (see pic)

For me it was nothing special. I just used urethane - 4 coats with sanding in between. Mine sleeps in the garage most of the time, so I wasn't worried about the elements. Out here it's mostly UV protection.

I used pine for the wood.

demi

Sillyoldman 06-13-2005 09:11 PM

Pine was original (so was painted pine) so I kept it the same. I thgink it goes better with the yellow than a darker wood. I used six coats of spar varnish. Its marine grade. You might want to keep a test sample and try mainly a varnish, because varnish will also darken the wood slightly.

Orange Truck 06-14-2005 09:17 AM

I replaced the wood bed material (Stepside - Shortbed 1969 Chevrolet C10) with an oak kit that came from Mar T or Mar D(?) out of Oklahoma City. It was finished, grooved, holes drilled and washers countersunk. A restoration place advised me to use "Marine Varnish" that can usually be obtained from a Marine supply store, expensive at $27 per quart. Unlike regular varnish it will take the weather and will not "bubble up" on exposure. I put on three coats for a very attractive finished and topped off with "polished stainless strips and hardware fastners". Very pleased and had excellent comments.

72402 06-14-2005 12:26 PM

I've done a few of these. Easiest way I've found is to stand the bed up on the front panel. With an air ratchet or impact, you can strip one in no time. If you keep it inside or have a bed cover, the urethane will last a long time, but marine varnish is better.
I bought the last wood kit I used from board member "classicchev". Same price as Mar-K and the nicest white oak I've ever seen. And he's great to deal with. Frank

70GMC_BOB 06-14-2005 12:39 PM

I just wanted to say that silly(don) is a great guy and the wood bed even looks better in person than the photo's. Thank's again for the bedliner. It doesn't look as cool as a your wood bed, but for my old truck with the metal floor works awesome for fire wood and beauty bark.

Sillyoldman 06-14-2005 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70GMC_BOB
I just wanted to say that silly(don) is a great guy and the wood bed even looks better in person than the photo's. Thank's again for the bedliner. It doesn't look as cool as a your wood bed, but for my old truck with the metal floor works awesome for fire wood and beauty bark.

Where have you been hiding? Sure was good to meet you. Let me know if you need any help finding those tool box hinges. Glad the bed liner is working out for you. Also glad the wife did'nt find that fifty in my wallet!!
:hi:

edmonton72 06-14-2005 02:10 PM

I agree a wood floor does look nice. But it is totally useless if you plan on using the box to put stuff in. My dad had a '69 CST and he wrecked the wood floor by using it to haul stuff. I will just keep my steel floor, fix the rust and put in rhino lining.

Sillyoldman 06-14-2005 03:41 PM

But it is totally useless if you plan on using the box to put stuff in.

Sorry, but I have to disagree with you on that one. My truck was in the weather for 34 years. Hauled rock, dirt, bark. You name it. It was only just the last couple years that the wood became weak and needed to be replaced. Would I haul with it now? No. But I have a different purpose for it now. I have seen steel beds rust out in the same time the wood rots. Yes it is more practical now a days to use steel. Try getting a used steel deck straight at the body shop. Wood beds have had a Usefullness since the beginning days of trucks themselves. JMHO.

mitchfab 06-14-2005 05:34 PM

I have a old 3/4 ton with a wood floor that needs replacing.I squeek when I walk just like my old truck.Got a machine shop to cut the wood in but dont have any prints.You know where I can get some prints to make my wood floor?

70GMC_BOB 06-14-2005 05:35 PM

LOOK AT GMCPAULS WEBSITE. http://gmcpauls.com/47-72%20BedWood%20Info.htm

mitchfab 06-14-2005 05:49 PM

Thanks! Man!!! You guys are fart smellers! "Oh" smart fellers!


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