rollpan install/progress pics
 

took about 4 hours of work to get it all on. now i've got to screw it into the bed and finish it in. :metal: last on the list is the fuel door. then the bed will be ready to smooth up a bit and prime for paint. :)

whoops forgot the beadwork again. i had to work on closing that big ole gap in the first pic so i stuck it in another place, this one was harder to weld and not as pretty. the bed is on a dolly and about a foot off the ground so 1/2 the time i had to weld on my back :lol: , sorry.

looks very good!

is that a mar-k roll pan? :confused:

yea, what kind of pan is that? I am thinking of going to a steel one instead of my glass one.

it's a sir michael's, i don't know if i would highly recommend them :rolleyes: . it was a pain in the a$$ to get the right fit. i've put 2 of their pans on in the past, one s10 and one toyota and they went on fairly easy compared to this one. it came out good in the end with some tweaking, i got it for $60 so i can't complain one bit :D . i'm gonna order a sir michael's kit for the tailgate to smooth and relocate the handle next. i'll post some pics in a couple of weeks and let you guys know how it fits.

I had good luck with the sir micheals tailgate parts... However, I glued the shave panel on with GM body adhesive and it was MUCH easier to do that way. No warping and very little filler, only enough to hide the seam.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...o/DSC00018.jpg

:cool: how much is the sealer? i've never tried it. anything that saves grinding, warping, and filling, i'm all for it.

Here's a few pics of the sealant (2 different kinds) and the application gun. If I remember right, the gun was the most expensive part. I can get names and part numbers if you're interested.

I just prepped everything, laid my glue down, applied the panel, applied a good amount of weight through the whole panel, and let it set for about 4 days.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...o/DSC02288.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...o/DSC02287.jpg

i've got a gun for that. i redo bumper covers on cars for side work. we use a filler we call "2 part" after we hot tank em. i wonder if that tube will fit in it? do you get it at the GM dealer? i've seen the 3M kind and i think it was about $30 a tube if i remember correctly.

Chevye-
The rollpan looks real good. And, thanks for the beadwork pics. :cool:

Yeah, 3M makes a GM-compliant adhesive. You can find it for about $34. (HandsOnTools sells it for $33.76 for a 200 ml. cartridge.)

87shortwide: Do you have the part numbers? Do you know the difference between the two, other than what is listed on the label?

dang, lucky me. i just checked my catalog. i didn't know we even carried this stuff. i can get it for 40% off too :metal: . i knew that looked familiar. that's who i get my filler from for bumpers :D . i'm an :crazy: sometimes. i'll have my buddy pick some of it up this weekend, thanks a ton Shortwide :gi: .

Chevye-
Which metal bonding product are you going with?

I wonder how well those plastic adhesives work? I've been trying to hunt some down. It looks like they carry a variety of bonding adhesives. Thanks for the lead.

Honestly I can't remember which is the one I used, or which is better. I will be using one for my firewall, so maybe Chevey would be able to help us both out with which is the best of the two.

The 108B has a "crash proven" label and is for metal adhesive
The 110B looks to be the same, but with Fast setting time instead of medium. However, it also has T31 on the label and it reads "Truck metal bonding adhesive" below the P/N.

What do you think Chevey?

i'm sure the metal bonding adhesive will be what i need. i've never used it though, i'll ask and see what's gonna work best. i use the bumper repair adhesive from them and it works awesome.

Thanks, guys.
Keep us posted if you get any new information. Better yet, let us know how it turns out. :cool:

I'm a slowpoke, but I'll let ya know how it works on the firewall when I get there.