Powdercoating
 

After months and months of trying to nail down a local service I finally
have found someone to do it, but I have a few questions about it 1st,

He said my parts needed to be bare metal? I have sandblasted them
and was going to prime thim w/ Eastwood's rust inhibitor? (Spelling)
But he said the parts needed to be raw, is this true, just curious?

Also he said he can only do BLACK, not a big deal for me, since most
of "GQ" is black, he said it was "GM GLOSS BLACK" and that's what is
used on parts by GM, is this for real?, does anyone know if it's true?

And third, said he would do the following for $75 (Same day service)
Is this a fair deal?, never paid for this kinda work before? opinions?

Skid plate w/ Crossmember
72 Extrem bend Tow hooks :D
Blazer Rear seat tubes
Blazer Rear seat brackets
Blazer Rear seat clamps (4) :D
Jack and crank handle
Hold down springs / clamps
Blazer inbed fuel line cover
Alternator brackets (Both)
Blazer Rear hatch parts
Window door track guides
Window glass track guides

And anything else small I can find



:fb:

Not sure about the cost (sounds like a deal), but I thought GM parts were semi-gloss.

there is flat black and gloss black. GM gloss black? WTF is the differance. Sounds like he is selling you or something with that line.

very few parts on cars/trucks are powdercoated.

Yes, whatever parts you're going to powder coat must be completely stripped down to the metal and be free of any oils or grime.

Goodluck

Price differs from area to area

Not sure Alexis, he mentioned the GM thing before I ever said what I owned,
he said it is a color they use in their special products division?, it might have
been semi-gloss, can't remember exactly what he said, I just remember "Gm"

Sounds fair to me, especially for same day turnaround... Sounds to me like it was just the name of the powder he would be using... Post up some pics when you get them back.:)

I sure will, he and one other place in town only do buisness accounts, so
they don't do stuff for consumers, when he heard it was for a restoration
he changed his mind and explained the only color he had, then I replied &
said cool because I want BLACK, then we started talking about "GQ" ;)

*The GM might have been a name like you said, not necessarily the color

This is my opinion...(everybody has one :-)
Be real careful with powder coating. If its done right, its great....however, some things are very well suited for it. I had some engine brackets done that the powder must have been put on too thick, (looked great) until the bolts were tightened down and the coating cracked. Some things with tight dimensions, ie, window channels, if t he coating is too thick, by the time you add the rubber and the glass....it wont fit.
Had some engine pulleys done that the powdercoating was applied to thick and filled the v-grooves (serpentine) to the point were the belts didn't fit well.
Another interesting thing....some of these items I used DAD's Paint Remover and it took the powdercoated paint off without any problems, ie, very easily. I then painted with eastwoods chassis paint...I made a couple of mistakes and tried to use the DADs paint remover again.....wholy batman, it didnt want to remove the paint...took alot of work. After seeing some of the results and keep in mind that if powdercoating paint cracks...and lets water in under the coating...it can rust quite badly before the coating actually flakes off for you to see. If it's a show truck, no problem...Daily driver, might want to reconsider powdercoating and go with something else.

The price sounds really fair.I paid $35 for a fan shroud and they had it for 5 days.(I love it)They do a lot of work though.They also have at least a dozen or more colors they can powdercoat.The best thing is that I just move and they are literally behind my back yard.

the powdercoaters i use have access to hundreds of colors// big books from different manufacturerers with different shades and ttypes of surface finishes

as bubba said take care with close tolarance parts such as tthe window stuff// i've never had a problem with engine/alt mounts or pulleys

to me it sounds like your guy is a parttimmer with an old kitchen oven /// i'd look for a more established place

try this www.powdercoating.org/members/custom/tn.htm
www.rickspowdercoating.com

I have a feeling the tow hooks (and other parts) will turn out sweet! I don't think I'd do the window tracks and guides for reasons posted above.

:agree: :phat:

I've had parts powdered on my truck and they came out very well... hood hinges/tailgate hinges/hood strikerplate. They do have to be prepped right down to bare metal and it depends on the guy doing it for quality. Any reputable shop shd have chemical bath tanks for final cleaning of the metal for it to be powdercoated. The painter who did my stuff mentioned you shd. not even touch the part with bare hands after its prepped as it can contaminate the part. The shop that did my stuff used to have a contract with Western Star (tractor trailers) and could not do the very small parts as they would get lost in the dip tanks. As C-downs mentioned make sure you use a reputable place and look at the parts that are ready to be picked up by other customers. Getting powder off to be redone can be a real hassle. Doug

This is just my 2 cents worth: It sounds as tho your powder coater is a hack. I have
had many things powder coated over the years and as cdowns said, the selection of
colors is endless. I just bring my items in to them in whatever dirty,greasey, painted
condition they happen to be in and the powder coater takes care of any dipping or
media blasting that is required. The parts have always turned out fine. On occasion I
have had to remove some coating for proper fitting or clearance issues, but this can
be easily done with a small grinder or paint stripping wheel on the end of an electric
drill.

Thanks for all of the responses guys, looks like the window stuff will just get
the black Eastwood rust stuff on it, and then I will powdercoat the goodies :hm:

powder coated items should not have the powder backed on so thick that it cracks and pops off. .3-.5 mils is what the avg. thickness should be. I have worked at a factory for a couple of years, and know that too thick is bad. Also, they make special tape and plugs that are heat resistant that you need to use in areas like the grooves of a pulley to keep the paint off.. Powder coating is some very tough stuff. It takes forever to blast it off and refinish.There is also different types of paint as well, each with its best uses. Epoxies for stuff that gets exposed to chemicals, and wont get exposed to sunlight. Polyesters for... well, i cant remember now, its been a long time.. Think stuff that gets sunlight???