lifter noise
 

I asked on the engine board but didn't get much response. So I hope I'm not breaking the rules about double posting. I only have 1 night left before I go on 7 off, and want to figure this out before then. I don't have internet service at home. :(
We got my son's 72 running after sitting for over a year. Put new timing set and rebuilt the carb. It runs very strong, but has a lot of lifter noise/knocking. It has only been run a few k miles in the last 10 years or so. Has 75k original miles. We had planned on replacing the engine, but now I'm not sure. We checked compression and has 125-132 in all 8, and doesn't smoke at all. It's a 350/4spd with everything stock. We found a note from a mech. that worked on it years ago that said it had bad lifters or cam or both. We're going to adjust the valves to try and quiet it down, but I don't expect that to work, or the mech would have done it. I'm wanting advice on replacing cam and lifters and maybe getting the heads done in an engine with 75k miles. $$ tight, but i don't want to spend less and have to RR the motor in 6 mnths anyway. if we decide to do the cam and lifters, what would you all suggest for cam. As always, any advice is greatly appreciated.
Al

The heads are probably ok as is, I wouldn't even un-bolt them.

When I bought my truck it had been sitting up for a while. I had some lifter noise but it was just ticking. I don't know how bad your noise is but I but Marvel Mystery oil in place of a quart or oil at regular oil changes. After two changes ALL the noise is gone. You have to be patient but if you just have a sticky lifter or gunk build up causing the noise it will take it out. If it doesn't work then you have more serious issues.

to replace the cam and lifters you need to
loosen your rocker arms so your push rods are free, remove distributor, remove intake, removefan, water pump, timing chain cover, timing chain, and top timing gear. You can use 2 longer bolts to thread into the end of your cam to make the removal a bit easier, btu you just need to slide the cam shaft out, giving it a slight turn if you get hung up. Once it's out, pitch it in the garbage, grab your new cam, lube the hell out of it with cam lube and slide it back in. Again you'll have to turn it slightly to get it thru the cam bearings. Then lube up your lifters abd drop em in, then re-assemble in reverse order

I agree with Randy, if compression is good leave the heads alone.

If you want to start out cheap just replace the lifters and see what happens. But... if it's the cam you'll have to purchase all new lifters again. Spending $$ twice ain't fun.

A stock cam/lifter kit can be purchased for $150-$200. Throw in a decent set of push rods, just to be safe $80. Putting your kid in something mechanically reliable for under $300.

my $.02

sounds like the lifters are gummed up and would go with marvel mystery oil like gator said.when you adjust the lifters let the one lifter run lose for a moment and make sure it starts pumping oil before you tighten it back down.good luck.

cheapest thing to try marvel mystery oil !!!! if that doesnt solve the problem at least you've gotten a good start on getting the lubrication system clean , or do you want to put in a new cam and lifters and pump crap on them????
and if you adjust your valves b-4 trying this if in fact it's gummed up lifters you run the risk of the valves hitting the pistons and pretty much trashing the engine

Thanks for all the responses. I'm planning on checking it out this weekend, so I'll let you all know how things went. I just talked to one of the mechs here at the mine and he told me a few other things to check out.
1. check the valve springs where it's making noise. If the springs turns by hand it's either broken or worn out.
2. adjust the rockers and if the noise stops, and then comes back after awhile, the lifters are good and the rockers need to be replaced. he said the rockers sometimes get worn where the pushrods seat.
All good info and I feel more confident in diagnosing the engine now.
Again thanks,
Al

Great thread al's71gmc! My 69 has the same annoying ticking that I was going to check out as soon as I can. I knew to check the rockers first, just in case one is worn and working loose, but now I'm going to get some MaMyOil.

I tried adjusting my lifters and it didn't work out the noise. I even changed a couple of lifters that I thought were making the noise but that didn't work either. If you can adjust the lifters and the noise goes away and then comes back you may need to replace the nuts on the rocker arms. They don't stand up very well under a lot of movement up and down the threads on the rocker studs. If that doesnt work try the mmo. It may be old school and it may take a little time but it absolutely does work!

al you must work at round montain mine? i work for cortez mine. john

If MMO doesn't solve your problem, check your pushrods. It doesn't take much to bend one. Try to narrow down the noisy area and check those first. A bent pushrod will give the same symptoms as bad rocker nuts(noise comes back shortly after adjustment).

If you have bad rocker nuts, go ahead and put on a set of poly-locks(sp?). You'll know right away if you have bad rocker nuts, they should be really hard to back off. You can also check them by adjusting them till the noise goes away and put a paint mark on the top of each one. Run the engine a few days and see if the marks have moved.

I just got this summit cam & lifters (80.00) to put in a stock 350. Should work well: http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...0&autoview=sku

Keep in mind you'll need a gasket kit (15.00), and you should replace the cam, lifters, and timing chain (35.00).

Should be able to get everything you need for about 140.00 if you need a new cam/lifters.

i had a bad tick as well,pulled the pushrods out and they were all mostly plugged,no oil getting up to the rocker,well,i figured the heck with it and put in new lifters and pushrods,i should have it done tomorrow,i will let you know what happens,i also decided to go ahead and put in new valve seals(umbrella kind) as the o-ring ones were mostrly broke anyway,i still cant figure out how a broken seal can still stay on the valve

Hey neighbor, I work at the Barrick (formerly Homestake)Ruby Hill Mine, just outside of Eureka. PM me if you're coming down to my neck of the woods sometime and I'll buy you a cold one.

Thanks to all for the help and suggestions. I'm back to work for 7 nights and didn't get a chance to even look at my son's truck on my days off. I did put the mmo in it and he runs it every day for at least 1/2 hr. Next days off.......I swear!!LOL
Al