6" Lift/Fr D-shaft Q:
 

This is on a`72 K/20.I put 6" springs on and have the spacers to drop the t-case,all from Tuff Country.They don`t provide degree shims.Is it ok to run these up front?These front drveshafts are so short and steep.I`ve never gone over 4" on a lift,except with worm gear military axles.What are some solutions?Do guys use the cardon-joints at the differential?I`m even thinking about a double t-case to get less angle(and,real climbing power,of course).I just want the truck functional.I have better clearance and flexy springs along with a locker in the rear.I want it to do more that look cool.Any suggestions?

Re: 6" Lift/Fr D-shaft Q:
 

Have you driven it yet with that set up?
Any vibration? If there isn't, I'd say your set.
Seems as though by dropping the t-case, you should be fine.

Don't think I'd run degree shims up front personally.

A 2nd t-case is cool if your willing to spend the time and money to do it.

What's the final drive like? Gear/tire size?

You know we need pics! :hm:

Re: 6" Lift/Fr D-shaft Q:
 

My 69 K20 has a Rockwell t/c and when I did my initial 4" lift I had to add a CV joint to the front driveshaft. I would think a CV joint would help you out with your 6" lift.

Re: 6" Lift/Fr D-shaft Q:
 

Hey Yukon Jack,what`s involved?Don`t guys put them at the diff-end of the shaft,too.My`72 has the CV at the t-case end from factory.What do you have now with the bigger lift?Kurt,what does your blue Blazer have for a front d-shaft set-up?

Re: 6" Lift/Fr D-shaft Q:
 

I've got a high pinion Dana 60 going to a furd 203 (drivers side shaft)
Normal set up with only a u-joint off the pumpkin.

Re: 6" Lift/Fr D-shaft Q:
 

I've always seen the CV joint at the transfer case output, not the axle differential. That is how the 69 is right now. When I went with the additional front lift, I didn't have to make any more changes. What was funny was, when I did the initial lift, the front driveshaft was too short so I took it to get lengthened. Got it installed and it wouldn't turn because of the angle. Back to the shop, CV installed and I'm sure they had to shorten the shaft some, then back home to install again. Luckily they cut me a deal on adding the CV joint.

The shaft I have for the 70 K5 has a CV and it will be installed with the CV at the transfer case too.

Re: 6" Lift/Fr D-shaft Q:
 

Oh,ok.I thought guys in Jeeps and K/5s were using CVs at both ends,too.I guess when I move it I`ll check it out.It`s not like the rear where it`s used all the time and at hiway speeds.I think the t-case drop is like,1".I don`t have that in,yet.I`m fighting getting the back springs out right now.

Re: 6" Lift/Fr D-shaft Q:
 

What a lot of people seem to overlook is lowering the T-Case actually makes the angle worse at the CV in the front driveline because the engine is fixed. You end up angling the tranny and t-case down. All you need to do is support the truck by the frame and let the front axle hang. Turn the front driveline by hand and check for binding. If it is minimal (should be) you can clearance the CV. There are some stops in the CV cage which I have ground down a bit with no adverse affects.

Re: 6" Lift/Fr D-shaft Q:
 

Thanks Richard.I hoped you`d see this.I thought the same about the t-case drop,haven`t put that in yet,been pondering.The motor would have to drop,too.I`m concerned about puting the HEI any closer to the firewall,too.TuffCountry supplys the t-case drop with the 6"system.I never knew of this being done until recently.Thanks for your input.

Re: 6" Lift/Fr D-shaft Q:
 

Looking at your sig I am guessing that the truck you are lifting is a longbed. If that is the case there is absolutly no reason to use the t-case drop. Still no reason if a shortbed IMO, maybe a Blazer? The only real reason to use the drop is for rear driveline vibration at highway speeds. I had a 72 K20 I used to wheel pretty hard and never had the need for one with an 8" lift. Your front driveline should be fine, even more so with the CV mod. Be carefull about your drivelines as well, most likely will not need any work. Let the axles hang at full droop and check for at least 1" spline engagement. I have seen many t-cases and drivelines damaged because they were to long. With a lift and the bump stop at stock position the axle can travel further up, by making your shafts to long they can be the bump stop. Dont worry, a 6" lift is still very mild everthing should be fine. Dont mean to be schooling anybody just passing on my experiences. Have fun with the new lift :)

Re: 6" Lift/Fr D-shaft Q:
 

Thanks again,Richard.I`m always willing tolisten.I`ve been into these trucks (mostly K/20s) for ever.Yeat,I`ve never lifted more than 4".Well,except for a truck I built with Rockwell worm-drives.I like where the scene has come to with real offroad capability being the emphasis.That`s always been my style.But,I`ve noticed alot of does`n`don`ts have evolved with time.Some I agree with and some are hype.I never heard of anyone needing to drop a t-case or stretch a d-shaft other than "custom-built" applications for many years.Just by being supplied with a t-case drop with the system made me think I needed it.Go figure.The front shaft does look steep,though.