The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - Dana 60 rear end rebuild

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Dana 60 rear end rebuild - need experts help/advice !

Re: Dana 60 rear end rebuild - need experts help/advice !

As far as the spindle nut goes, it is a hex type (not the one with the fingers, like an Eaton H052 or 14 bolt). At least mine was. I forget the size, maybe 2-9/16"?

The wheel bearings should go in OK, put a little bit of grease on them and make sure when you re-fill the diff you put in enough so that it flows down the tubes to the bearings.

I wouldnt change the carrier bearings unless you can tell they are FUBAR'd. Doing gear changes(or removing the carrier) in Dana axles is kind of a PITA because you need to acquire a housing spreader to get it to slip in.

The posi is a power-lock, and has replaceable wear clutches. I don't think you can really test these besides putting it under the truck and driving it some. Rebuilding them is fairly cheap, but you will need the housing spreader like I mentioned above.

As far as the yoke, IIRC it is not a press fit onto the pinion, but it is pretty tight. I seem to remember taking mine off with a hammer, but that was a while ago.

Other than that, you should be good to go.

Re: Dana 60 rear end rebuild - need experts help/advice !

Thanks 1969 GMC !

Just curious, why does the D60 need a case spreader but say a 12 bolt you can tap bearings and shims in with a brass hammer or drift ? Basicly would I have been SOL if I hadn't asked here and removed it just to check ?

I do need to know the proper bearing preload for the hub bearings. The only thing I can remember from years ago, was to tighten the inner nut enough to remove the slack while spiining the hub, then back inner nut off 1/6 turn, put in the lock ring and tighten the outer nut. Is that the right way ?

Thanks

Re: Dana 60 rear end rebuild - need experts help/advice !

Quote:

Originally Posted by Green Machine (Post 1900642)

Just bought a D60 3.54 FF posi from a board member here from a 71 Suburban. We are going to install it in our 1971 C20 2wd. Axle appears in nice shape, but I would like to install new seals, check bearings, etc before installing. I have had quite a few other rears totally apart c10 12 bolts and others so I know general prodecures. Specific questions :

1. Hub removal - do I need a special socket to remove and install the big hub nuts ?yes, if it is the finger type you whant the 2.5"
2. Proper preload procedure and initial lube recomendations for the hub bearings during installation ? you what just a tiny bit more than the hub being sloppy

3. Should I remove carrier to check bearings or are these usually OK ? If I remove the carrier will it be a major fight on this big baby to get cups and shims back in ? What is the torque spec for the caps ? you can pry it out with a pair of pry bars, it will be tricky puting it back in if it have waffer shims not single shims
4. Pinion seal looks like it has been leaking some, but not bad. I don't have a socket that big but could get one if my 1/2 drive impact would take it off. How hard is the yolk pressed onto the pinion spline ? Puller required here ? I have a small puller I think I could use. The main question here is if it is going to be a major pain to fix I just might leave it alone, but do the pinion bearings go bad often on these ? you will need a 1-5/16" socket and a 1/2" should be able to get it without much effort. it takes a ton of ftlbs to set the pinion preload initialy but after that its only like 30ftlbs. you may need a puller just because of the amount of time its been on there but it should come off fairly easily. shouldnt take more than 30 min.

5. Axle hub seals look like they might be $25 each, any tips besides a special tool to install them ? they tap into the hub just like a pinion seal would, a large pry bar should pop them right out.

6.Posi unit seems tight, not planning on going that far, so are these usually good to go if tight and passes a close visual inspection ?you really cant judge it by hand with out a wheel on the hub, remount the tires and see how it feels

7. I know how to do the brakes, but are there any other suggestions on what to check to general tips on these ?

Thanks for your help, I just want to do ths once properly.

you dont HAVE to have a case spreader but it sure helps. as long as the guts are not caked in rust it should be fine.

Re: Dana 60 rear end rebuild - need experts help/advice !

Thanks guys - now I can git er done !

Re: Dana 60 rear end rebuild - need experts help/advice !

Quote:

Just curious, why does the D60 need a case spreader but say a 12 bolt you can tap bearings and shims in with a brass hammer or drift ? Basically would I have been SOL if I hadn't asked here and removed it just to check ?

The main reason is the sheer massiveness of the casting on the Dana60 axle. The preload of the bearings tries to spread the casting as the carrier is installed. So the bigger casting poses greater resistance to installing the carrier. You don't have to worry about shims though. The D60 doesn't have the thick "external" shims that the GM units use. All of the shims are under the bearings themselves.

The biggest issue with replacing the carrier bearing this is that the new ones will tighten things up........thus making it even harder to get it back in. I generally caution people against messing with differential internals, but since you are dealing with bearings only and keeping used gears, it may be ok. As long as you don't go overboard with it. The thing is.........."While I have it apart" generally means looking at the pinion bearings too. Then you are looking at more shims and oil flinger/deflectors...and more variables in reassembly.
Anyone can get in over their head on this, especially if you find a bad bearing somewhere.