Cap's On
 

So I found this "Glastite" cap locally in the internet classifieds (www.kijiji.com). The guy was originally asking $325, now $275 OBO so I got it for $250.

The cap is in pretty good condition, with sliding front and side windows (with screens). No cracks in the fiberglass. Some of the weatherstripping around the windows cound be replaced, and the clear coat is pealed off on a very small portion of the roof, but it's high enough to be unseen. I think I may just sand it a bit and spray bomb it with clear to help protect the fiberglass.

I'm thinking I may want to paint it white to match the truck at some point, but the truck needs body work as well, so it's all good for now.

So, does anyone out there have any tricks/techniques for removing/handling these caps by yourself? I'm thinking I may leave it on the truck for a while, but I also like the "open-box" look.

Re: Cap's On
 

Nice looking topper, you did good.

As far as 1-man removal...I have seen one way. If you have a garage, you can rig up a lift to hang from the rafters. When you want to remove it, simply slide a couple 8 foot 2x4's between the topper and truck, connect them to your lift cables, and lift high enough to suspend it from the truck. Then simply drive out of the garage, lower it, and store it...or keep raising it and store it up high for future use. Make sense?

Re: Cap's On
 

Makes perfect sense to me. I was thinking of the very same thing. Here are a couple of pics of my garage (recent build). The interior still needs to be finished (and cleaned up) but you get the idea. I actually have a small electric hoist hanging from the trusses right now that I use for similar situations. So that should work well.

Thanks for the props...

Re: Cap's On
 

you got a nice setup there!
i agree with making some sort of devise to connect to your hoist and lift it up

Re: Cap's On
 

If you don't mind me asking how much does a gargage like that run to get built. I'm looking at get me something built similiar to you'res

Re: Cap's On
 

I remove my cap by myself, using pipes to roll it back, then down 2x4's to my trailer hitched behind. This technique has worked well for years.

Re: Cap's On
 

hellz yea brudda! grats on the topper...nice lookin garage too.

Re: Cap's On
 

We're between $20 and 25 K (Canadian) to date, but this is most of the labour myself. I'm guessing having it built would have been around $35 to 40 K.

Just to clarify, this space does have a number of "upgrades" that have cost additional money...

Size - 26 x 28/30 (roughly 750 sq.ft.)
Heat pipe in the floor.
approx. 7" thick floor with 12" deep perimeter thickened edge
6" concrete perimeter curb
2x6 construction
walkable "storage" attic trusses (see below)
2 oversize doors (7.5' x 10')
and darker siding (about 3x cost of white or tan)

Overall, it's a fantastic space, and well worth the additional time and money - although I don't think I could have afforded having someone else build it for me. But then again, the quality would not be what I want...

Re: Cap's On
 

Thanks!:)

Re: Cap's On
 

Man i thought you meant a tonneau cover not a camper top lol. it be kinda hard to build a camper top from scratch. Looks good though.

Re: Cap's On
 

i had a fiber glass topper and moving that thing by our self is allmost an inpossible task with either breaking your back or breaking the toper. just a thought as you know the thing wieghs a ton. or atleast mine did.

Re: Cap's On
 

the best way i have done it by myself,,since i dont have a garage or a tree to lift it,,or alot of friends to help...i built a wood rack, the height of the truck, and the length of the topper.... i just used all the scrap lumber i had lieng around...i would then undo it, then slowy slide it off onto the rack,,when i was able i would get on the ground under it, and and continue to slide it off...if you live somewhere where it gets windy, open the side windows, to help let the air through...when you want to put it back on, i found if i stood on a couple of old concrete blocks, i could get better leverage to slide it back on...once it gets far enough on th bed it slides good...i wouldnt do it any other way if i ever get another one... also i used medium sized c clmaps to hold mine onto the truck,, i used the same clamps to hold it onto the rack,,in case it got really windy...i used to only use mine during the winter,,in the late spring it came off until fall...
billy

Re: Cap's On
 

Bravo to that cool shop ---

i know the 7" floor and 12' construction ate up some coin. But you can park anything you want in there within reason.

So next up is to heavily insulate it and sheetrock it and checkerboard the floor, eh? Then you would have a 4 seasons clubhouse and a nice getaway from the missus

Re: Cap's On
 

I've already got the insulation, and if you look at the photo of the interior, you'll see a lift of 7/16 OSB sheathing (the blue cube in the middle of the photo). This is the same material used for the exterior (under the siding). I decided to go this route because it is cheaper than sheetrock and is alot more durable.

As for the floor, it'll stay bare concrete for now - but I do love the checkerboard...

Thanks again for the props.

Re: Cap's On
 

Gramps had a setup where he would backup between to sets of "rails". Four 4x4 posts driven into the ground, two on each side of the pickup. They were about 6ft spaced lengthwise so there would be a foot of bed fore and aft of the posts. Then there was another support beam across the tops of the posts that would be just a few inches higher than the bed. Then just lift a portion of the topper, slide under some lumber across to the other side, then move back and slide another under, until there were about 3 pieces of lumber supporting it up in the air. Didn't really take up any parking space and you could make the rails as wide as you needed to feel comfy with backing up between them.

Re: Cap's On
 

Great tips - thanks guys!