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Frame sandblasting
Can a frame with all front end components ie ball joints etc etc...be sandblasted without ruining these parts?
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I wouldn't want to. Best thing to do is build a stand so you can roll it around. Pull that stuff off, unless your going to rebuild everything when you get it back
------------------ 71 basic C-10 350. The only option is the rust.No nothing on it, but thats all about to change. <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410 " TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410 </A> |
You can . . . but the rubber boots on all the joints will collect sand & should be thouroughly cleaned after the blasting process. You'll need to curl up the boots and use a high pressure spray cleaner (Brakleen works great). I just finished a major blasting job and was able to get all the sand out without any problem. You should grease the hell out of the joints when you're finished & this should push out any sand you've missed.
Another, and probably better, option would be to use black slag for your media. It's as abrasive as sand, won't get wet & sticky in humid weather, and it's not as much of o problem if you don't do a good job on your clean-up. Happy blasting! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/board/ubbhtml/smile.gif Lee ------------------ 1969 Custom 20 Longhorn 1970 CST 20 Fleetside 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe 1991 Jaguar Sovereign 1992 Mazda Miata 1969 Triumph Bonneville 1964 Harley Sportster |
Years ago I had a 65 Impala frame sand blasted. The guy doing the work kept away from all of those areas. Even if you don't blast the rubber boots to pieces you can end up with sand in the grease which will make a short life for ball joints and tie-rod ends.
Is this something you will be doing with a home blaster or are you taking it to a pro? I think you could do some finesse blasting with a home sized blaster by using duct tape and strips of tin to shield the rubber. parts. ------------------ 1971 C-10 Suburban 1972 C-10 Suburban 1969 XL Galaxie Fastback 1968 Galaxie 500 Fastback 1974 SCOUT II Montrose, Minnesota |
I think you will be much more satisfied if you take the time to disassemble everything. The blasting will get all components clean, you can paint, and then reassemble and you will like the results.
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I don't think I'd try to shortcut it. If you are doing a frame off, you're going to go through everything anyway, right? You'll be a lot happier in the end if you take them off before the fun begins. JMO
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I wouldnt risk it either, it would be next to impossible to remove all the sand from inside of the joints once its all done.
------------------ 1969 Chevrolet Custom Camper 20 350/400 70k original miles They have the Internet on Computers now? --Homer Simpson Gee_Emm's Page Help me get my truck on a soda bottle!!!!! |
Ya, my vote is to take it apart....
Just think, if you decide not too, then have the parts fail early...and you end up back in there doing it all again. Not Fun! It doesnt take much sand in a grease joint to wreck havock...Do it once....Do it right! you be *very* glad in the end! Cheers! ------------------ 71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside WAS:307w/3-on-the-tree NOW:350TBI/700R4/3.73 See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich |
I vote take it apart also,sand & grease make one h#ll of a grinding compound.....69 longhorn.
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Taking it to the local "pro" sandblasting shop in town. Guess I shouldn't try skimping and cuttin corners and go ahead and replace them. Thinkin bout having them Blast then replace parts and then paint!
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And if powdercoating is available in your area I would highly recommend that since you have the thing sand blasted already.
------------------ 1969 Chevrolet Custom Camper 20 350/400 70k original miles They have the Internet on Computers now? --Homer Simpson Gee_Emm's Page Help me get my truck on a soda bottle!!!!! |
I agree with everything said, break it down, blast it all, put it back together, its well worth it. Think of that rust as a cancer :P if you miss 1 little spot of bare metal trying to cut corners, it will eat into your nice clean stuff (I've lost my mind thinking about it this way.. so on second thought dont think of it that way lol)
and.. yes.. powdercoating is a great idea HOWEVER, make sure before you get it done that you have gotten all the rust. I was going to have mine done, but then noticed a large rust deposite between 2 peices of the frame (spring pads and spring "tensioners" as I call them, the rear coil pads were eaten up and the pads on the inside were too) we had to drill these items rivets off, remove them, blast them individually, and then paint them off the frame before bolting them back on with grade 8s. hope that helps, I've got some pics on my link of my frame blasted on the trailer if you want. Good luck, yer doing the right thing by cosidering these methods IMO ------------------ Projects Belair '71 C10 LWB to SWB conversion:C10 project page 65Chevelle pics coming soon |
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