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Aluminum Diff Covers
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Hey Guys
I am looking into buying an aluminum diff cover for my 10 bolt rear-end I am looking at this one in particular http://mag-hytec.com/store/index.php...31efbaf03241bd I like the idea that it holds 4 qts, rather than 1.5qts stock, and it has an o-ring for a gasket, so I don't have to fiddle around with silicone. It also has a drain plug, so changing the fluid will be easier Now the stainless bolts they supply are allen key heads, and I live in Ontario, and drive year round. Do you think the salt will corrod the heads?, can I put a dab of Anti-sieze on the treads, so they don't sieze in the rear-end? Has anyone purchased this one?, what was your experience with it? Any, and all comments are welcome.... Thanks Cameron |
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It's an awesome cover if you need it. It ain't cheap but what is on these trucks.
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If the bolts are a high quality of stainless they won't rust and it never hurts to use anti sieze on any fastner that lives in a harsh enviorment.
I'd be worried about the cover corroding before the bolts especially the exposed parts of the fin's unless theres a clear coat on it. As for the o-ring seal i don't think it would work on my rear end cuz te housing mount surface has a very rough cut finish from when it was machined and unless yours is really flat and smooth it may not seal so if i were you i'd remove the one on the truck and look at the housing mount surface before you order it. |
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$250 is just too much for me to justify spending on a rear end cover.
http://www.wpsracing.com/taperrearend.html Something like that would actually be functional because the girdle helps strengthen the rear end. 8.5 10 bolts are decently strong though. |
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The housing mounting surface is very clean, and there are no nicks, or gouges in it. I had it removed last year, before I got the rear-end rebuilt.
So I think it'll seal just fine...but only time will tell I guess. The whole cover does have a clearcoat finish, so it won't corrod Thanks Cameron |
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I have 2--you can't go wrong IMO.
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I will see mine in the mail in 2 weeks...being I am up in the Great White North and all Duro |
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I have one on my Duramax. It is a very high quality piece, and no leaks.
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On my truck, I used the cover that Currie sells and it had the stiffener bolts for the bearing caps.
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This is a little different .... $59.95 + $12.00 ship.
esll. :) |
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Yea, the last one is just in time for the Halloween. For the practical bunch - myself included - last Saturday morning have replaced stock stamped steel cover on my 14 Bolt 10-1/2 rearend
http://www.4freeimagehost.com/resized/cc5fdac3de93.jpg with Mag Hytec cover. Mag's are not cheap, but the quality of the aluminium casting, powder coated finish and supplied hardware (the total package) appear to be the best available on the market. Once, installed it took 5 qts (1Gallon + a bit from another battle) of SAE-85 to full her up. Future service checks are now a breeze with built in oil level dip-stick. http://www.4freeimagehost.com/resized/da51ba630974.jpg Installation was rather trivial - except that brake line support brackets had to be modified. Thin one was trimmed with sheers and the thicker one was trimmed with a hack saw. Couple of passes with a flat file to keep all sharp edges at bay. About 15 minuted for mods. //RF |
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Looks really good, I can't wait for mine to come....should be here next week I'l get some pics when I put it on Duro |
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Well she just came in the Mail today....can't wait to put it on
It is definetly a high quality piece, and hopefully will go on no problems. I'll post some pics when I get it on, this week, or maybe next week Duro |
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i would much rather have the girdled cover.
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What I don't understand, is I am not raising the level past the factory fill plug on the side of the rear end. So yes there is more fluid, but it's not any higher than the fectory level. So this vent tube problem, shouldn't be one. Or the factory cover would be pissing oil out the vent aswell....or am I not understanding something here Duro |
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Duro'
If you look at full res photos you'll find a 3/8" hose going from left side all the way across toward frame rails to the right. I know, it is tough to see it on the left side, but it is clearly visible on the right side of the photo - running parallel to the brake line. At one end it taps into dif housing above oil level. Breather end has special plastic valve-breather to keep external moisture from getting in. Since I am not original owner I do know when this mod was performed. Not a good answer - aghh?? //RF |
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The breather on my 10 bolt, goes from the original nipple, up along the frame rail about 2-3ft. This was to keep it out of the moisture of the stock location straight up on the frame rail. So the plasitc breather itself is about 1.5ft above the rear end
I am not currently having any oil leaks from the vent, or water issues like before. The stock nipple is above the oil level by about about 2.5". When I fill the new pan, I am not going over the stock fill hole....therefor the level won't be any higher than stock. So I think I shouldn't have any leaking issues, unless I am missing something here Duro |
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The breather vent tap is actually higher than factory oil level check hole on my 14bolt by about 3 inches. So, in grand scheme of things vent system with a long 3/8" house works just fine.
//RF |
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As for the hex key bolt heads, stuff a little Vaseline into the hex holes. It'll repel moisture and is easy enough to get out for servicing.
Or go to a hydraulic hose manufacturer and get some of those little red plastic caps they cover the ends of the hoses with that'll fit over the bolt head entirely. Goop just a touch of silicone in the cap to help keep it on there. |
Re: Aluminum Diff Covers
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Anyways the cover is on, and I had to elongate one hole, which I was not very happy about, being I don't have the proper tools to do this. There for it took me about 3 hours from start to finish. I baught th expensive cover so I wouldn't have to modify anything on the piece itself, brakes lines, brackets...I understand having to modify. It does not hold 4qts as advertised either. I filled it to the stock location and it only took 2.5L, so only 1.2L over stock fill. And it is between the dipstick marks too, where it says it should be. I didn't move the vent tube like it says too, and I have been driving on it for about 4 days, and no problems. And I have done everything from city, to highway driving aswell. So it's fine In Conclusion..... It is a very high quality piece, the flange it 1/4" think, and is finished very well. It comes will all the mounting hardware, and allen keys, and the O-ring seals beautifully. The drain plug, and dipstick are very high quality pieces, with positive o-ring seals aswell. So for the piece itself I was very happy with it. The fit on the other hand was Meh...alright. You would think for the $250 you pay for the cover the machining would be 100% perfect, a 10 bolt is a 10 bolt rear end...there all the same, but it's not. So that aspect could have been improved All in All I give the product a 8/10, because of fitment issues, and false advetising Sorry for the Crap glare, I was tired after work. I put a couple coats of clear on the whole cover, so the bare aluminum wouldn't corrode in the salt up here I'll try to get some nice pics when I have it on a hoist Thanks Duro |
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Hmm - I would definitely drop Mag a line. Since our differentials are different I can not comment on modification issue. If it so - it raises a red flag which Mag better address very quickly. My installation experience was more a less a non event - per installation manual. However, I agree with you 100% that after shelling out $250 bucks the silly thing better fit and perform as advertised.
//RF |
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^^^^^
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