CV joint
 

Is it a bad idea to remove the Cv joint assm. from the front drive shaft? They just seem like such a pain...

Re: CV joint
 

I think it needs it because of the short length of the front driveshaft. Otherwise, there would be too much vibration and bind. I believe this is especially true if there is any kind of suspension lift.
I believe this is why Jeeps normally have a rear cv joint... their wheelbase is so short.

Re: CV joint
 

As long as you never go over about 30 mph with the hubs locked in you can probably get away without it. It is there because of the way the u-joint angles are set-up on the front shaft. It eliminates the vibration you would otherwise get from mismatched angles.

Re: CV joint
 

Hey thanks for the replies guys I think I'll just stick with the CV joint after all... It's gonna be my daily driver, not a hard core off-roadin' machine.

Re: CV joint
 

I removed my CV joint 15 years ago and I'm glad I did....no vibrations even at 80 mph. It's not lifted though.

Re: CV joint
 

Yeah... it's lifted 4 inches. I decided to just stick with the CV set-up so is there any tricks to putting it together? I took it all a part but it the seal and all that good stuff was gone so it just fell a part. I got the new U-joints and a new CV piece that bolts to the transfer case, but the guy at the auto parts store said there was some trick to putting it all together? Any comments or tips please let me know!
Thanks,
J.D.

Re: CV joint
 

Rebuilding CV's is usually left for a driveline shop. When mine was wasted I thought about doing it myself, but to actually replace the ball could require cutting the end off the shaft. From looking at mine and talking to a shop I know it's worth the money to have a pro rebuild the cv.

Re: CV joint
 

I just got mine back from HSV driveshaft yesterday afternoon. CV ball kit and sleeve and 2 new Spicer u-joints and labor was $117

Re: CV joint
 

He charged me 42.50 in labor in 2003 and 45 dollars labor in 2008. Not bad

Re: CV joint
 

This is what I got for replacement...circled in red. I'm not really sure what the big deal is with doing the replacement myself? Looks pretty straight forward...

Re: CV joint
 

It is all easy as long as the yoke (part #5) is not worn out. This yoke has a little boss that keeps the two u-joints aligned properly, and it can wear out. To replace the yoke you obviously have to cut and weld a new one on. I normally tear them apart, and if the yoke is OK you just put it back together with the new u-joints. If the yoke is bad take just the shaft to a shop and have them weld a new yoke on for you. That way all you will ever pay for is the part that you can't do at home.

Re: CV joint
 

Tim's got it right there. On mine the ball/socket deal on #5 was worn out. It needed a new yoke. Got mine done for $77 through a shop I deal with. The big issue is when welding the yoke back on besides making sure it's true is making sure it's in correct phase with the joint on the other end of the shaft. If it's not in phase, the joints can't cancel each other out and it will vibrate regardless if it's been balanced or not.

From what I've heard, even if you just end up replacing the part you circled you almost need 4 hands to get everything together correctly. Meaning it's not as easy as you might think it looks.

Re: CV joint
 

:devil:HAHAHAHAHAH! The deed is done... and yes it just about takes four hands to get it all together but other than that it was pretty simple...
Thanks for all the help guys.