Clutch Z-bar question
 

So, I'm most of the way through my current project on the '64: installing headers and flowmasters. I have the driver's side all on and clamps tightened. Of course, I've been slowed down by needing to repair the prev owner's 'craftmanship,' but I'm taking my time to make sure everything is done correctly.

I of course couldn't wait until I had the passenger side done and fired up the truck w/just one header on. Oh wow, car-wood! It's going to sound sick when complete.

Here's my question. The rear cylinder's pipes on the driver's side interfere with the Z-bar, and I need to move the offending 'prong' of the z-bar inboard (towards the engine) by about 3/4 to 1", to clear the new pipe. Is there anything to worry about in doing this? I tried attacking it with a BFH (big, uh... hammer) and it won't budge, so I will have to have a friend cut and reweld. Do I have to worry about this relocation, with regards to the clutch linkage going to the clutch from the Z-bar? I'm wondering if modifying this will make the length too long. Pointers on this?

I'm going to attack the passenger side here today/tonight and see what kind of swear words that I'll be making up while fighting with clearance around the starter. :)

Re: Clutch Z-bar question
 

I did the cut/weld routine on mine several years ago - just relocate the "prong" so it is clear of the header and you will be fine.
Greg

Re: Clutch Z-bar question
 

Can you post a pic of the finished product? I know there are pictures on here of the modified zbars but I couldn't find them in the search to save my life

Re: Clutch Z-bar question
 

So what headers did you go with?

Re: Clutch Z-bar question
 

I assume your solution will work but IMO headers that will work with manual clutch would be the preferable way to go. Make sure your weld is a good one! :smoke:

There is a header thread below that, regrettably, hasn't gone very far so far.

Re: Clutch Z-bar question
 

I did it too. Be sure to grind off the galvanzing in the area before welding. I didn't do that the first tima and it broke off two months later. I took the broken bits to a "real" metal guy and he told me what went wrong, and fixed it right.

The angle the linkage rod works at is on the questionable side. I had to put a little twist in the tab to get the linkage to assemble. Tweak very slightly, very little at a time until it works. The problem here is with a little twist the hole is no longer swinging parallel to the motion of the tab.

It's been together over a year now and no problems.

But what billydonn says is really the right answer. From what I've learned on this board, there is no point to these tube headers on a basically stock 350. Mine headers are from a 1971 GMC C10, they fit (barely) the 64. But other than "looking cool", there is no performance gain in my setup. It isn't worth the potential heat problems (too close to the starter) nor the pain-in-the-neck spark plug access. I used these because during my engine swap we found the sotck cast iron header was cracked, and these headers were free. When somethign goes wrong with these headers (rust out, or cracks) I will seek rams horns and put back a stock Z-bar.

Re: Clutch Z-bar question
 

where is the header thread? I don't see it

Re: Clutch Z-bar question
 

Joe: Header thread is down on page two, started by brawley:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=286578

Re: Clutch Z-bar question
 

I got a set of Hooker headers, I can look up the part number if anyone does want it. I thought it was 2801 or something. Anyway, I'll get some photos of the finished product... after the engine gets degreased. :)

Anyway, it works out GREAT! The only issue that I have is that the headers dump out at a slight down angle, so it makes the mufflers point down a bit. If I could do it over, I'd route the pipes differently so that I could get rid of the down angle... pix will illustrate, when I get them up.

The modification job that I had done worked out amazing, and I didn't even have to lengthen the clutch fork's rod one bit.