header bolts wont stay tight
 

Does anybody knwo how to keep hooker headers tight? I have to tighten mine up about once a week. Thanks a lot.

That's a very common problem. Are you talking about where they bolt to the head, or down at the collector? Both seem to back off like crazy.

Look at these bolts that Summit has. They have a groove in the head. You tighten the bolt, slip on the D shaped washer, put the c-clip on. The D shaped washer butts up against the header tube and keeps them from backing off.

I haven't used them, but I plan on it next time I have anything with headers!

ok...this is fixable...torque them down( as tight as a 7/16 wrench will go) run the motor until it reaches running temp...tighten them again....in 2 days do it again...then a week...then every 2 weeks..then once a month or so...its not that much work and it will work

ckhd, thats the system I'm using now.
Not that this will work for everyone but I know it works for me. I've swapped engines 2 times in this truck since I've had it and only once have I had to go in and replace the gaskets becuase the bolts got loose. They would get loose every couple of months and would have to retighten them. Till now.

Buy regular old Mr.Gasket header gaskets (white) then soak them in water for about 2 hours or so(until the fibers start to expand), bolt the headers on and since 6 of the bolts can only be tightened with a wrench, I just put a "healthy" turn on all the bolts instead of trying to torque them. Drive it for a few days, check all bolts. Do this for about 2 weeks then install the E-Clip system.

I've had this engine in for about 2 maybe 3 months and no problems. This is the first time i've used the E-Clips and they work very well. Very simple to install.

The problem is the gasket. The bolts are not coming loose, the gasket is compressing when the header and the head expand when they heat up. Even if you get bolts that have a c-clip, if you pull it off you will find that the bolts are still loose. Paper gaskets are the worst. Back when I ran headers back in the stone age, I aways ran regular manifold gaskets, they seemed to do better. I sure they make much better gaskets now, and I'm sure some of these guys will tell you which ones are best.

I am with bigjimzlll. That is how I've always done it. Within about 6 months you will no lnoger have tot ighten them. Tom Hand is right, it is the gaskets contracting not the bolts loosening. Once the 6 months of tightening is over then you can install the locks and will never have to worry about them again.

Thats the whole point of "softening" the gaskets. They compress much better this way, so after a few tightening's they are good to go... yes these bolts back out but its not only because of the gaskets. Constant heating/cooling cycles/vibrations and stress on the header cause them to back out.

Not that my way is better than anyone elses, to each his own... It works for me and now that I've installed the clips, I have no loose bolts. :D

Mine used to require regular tightening but they no longer back off.

Does whether you have Aluminum or Cast Iron heads matter? The fact that Aluminum disapates heat better, would that make the bolts move more or less? Just another variable to think about huh?
Brandon

this is 67oldstyle72's brother,,the best way i found to fixing this problem is take your header clean the rim that goes on the head,take red temp silicon make bead around each hole,make a nice ring around it,let it sit till the next day ,should be dry put on,bolt down,i haven't touched mine since march,just a suggestion,pappy taught me,,

i've had great luck useing the metal manifold gaskets..the last set i put in..i tighhtened..warmed it up tightened again and forgot about it...never touched them again..drove the car for 2 years as a daily driver...........i have used silicone on a race car were the headers were all banged up used the high temp copper stuff ...it workes good to

I agree with Bigjim, Summit racing has a few new gaskets that recently came out, one that they claim is reusable.
I'm going to take the cheap route and drill the heads on my header bolts at my work with a drill press. Then I'm going to safety wire the bolts to each other. The gasket still may compress, but the bolts won't back off.....

I used to have this problem until I installed header studs. They are great, it's easier to install the headers and gaskets. The thread in the head does not get worn (especially ali). The outer thread is fine so you get more clamping force, can't recommend them enough! I used metal gaskets the only time I ever fitted the headers after the studs.

Cut em!
 

Cut the flanges and use manifold gaskets ( about 5 bucks). Ive ran em like this for years. You tighen the bolts one time and forget them. Cut the flanges on the arrows.

I was told to cut those flanges as well, i guess it helps to stop the warping and loosening of the headers. The guy I bought my engine from runs stock cars, and he has had several set of them. Good thing to know, no i just gotta see if my headers will clear the shift linkage on my 3 spd

I Installed solid copper header gaskets. Tightened the bolts down good and tight once and I havent tightened them since. No leaks after 6000 miles and the bolts are as tight as the day I put them on.

STAGE-8 BRAND HEADER BOLTS N LOCKS. THE BEST $30 YOU'LL EVER SPEND IF YOU RUN HEADERS. THEIR STAINLESS, HAVE AN ALLEN HEAD TYPE HOLE IN THE END OF THE HEAD,THE LOCK HAS A 12 POINT HOLE IN IT TO FIT OVER THE BOLT HEAD WHILE BUTTING UP AGAINST A HEADER TUBE, & THERES A GROOVE IN THE BOLT HEAD FOR A C-CLIP TO HOLD THE LOCK IN PLACE. I'VE HAD A SET ON MY BIG BLOCK TRUCK FOR THREE YEARS WITHOUT RETIGHTENING. I RUN THESE ON ALL MY TRUCKS WITH HEADERS, & WOULDN'T CONSIDER RUNNING HEADERS WITHOUT THEM.

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The problem is the gasket. The bolts are not coming loose, the gasket is compressing when the header and the head expand when they heat up.
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I LIKE TO RUN COPPER GASKETS & DON'T REALLY HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE GASKETS COMPRESSING. TO EACH HIS OWN, BUT I DON'T HAVE ANY HEADER LEAKAGE PROBLEM AT ALL ANYMORE, & THATS THE ONLY BAD THING THAT I'VE EVER HAD TO SAY ABOUT HEADERS.


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:D :D :bowtie:

If you guys want any more suggestions, take a look at some fourth-generation Camaro boards...those guys REALLY know how to keep header bolts tight, beacuse if they don't...it's a MAJOR B!TCH to re-do them. (Plugs and wires generally take 8 hours or so the first time you do them on a 4th-gen Z28. Yes, 8. No room to work, and that makes header installation look easy...)

PROJECT 1970 IS RIGHT ON....HAD A FOURTH GEN Z28 BEFORE I PICKED UP MY TRUCK (WANTED SOMETHING FASTER!!) HAD THE SAME PROBLEM ON MY 383 IN MY TRUCK UNTIL I STARTED USING FEL PRO GASKETS...LITTLE MORE EXPENSIVE BUT WELL WORTH IT!

I am running the gaskets that came with the Hooker headers, & havent had any problems keeping them tight. I do run the first set of exhuast hangers about 1 ft behind the collectors, & feel that by keeping the weight of the ex system off the headers even the papergaskets hold up pretty well. There are much better gaskets on the market than ther was 20yrs ago.......the felpro's & the Mr G ultras are a couple.....:bowtie:

You also need to make sure your exhaust system is sufficiently clamped so the header can't shake back and forth. There should be a factory hanger about 1' or so back from the collectors.
My old headers were warped and constantly coming loose since the exhaust pipes were wobbly. New headers and pipes made a big difference. I also used the copper gaskets. Fairly expensive, but I hope they were worth it. I tightened the bolts a couple times in the first two weeks and they seem to be holding fine. That reminds me, I should go out and do them again, just for fun...