Several 69 Suburban chassis questions...
 

Hi all.
I just bought a pretty solid 2wd 69 Suburban.

The PO already swapped 72 spindles and disc brakes, and had the rearend redrilled to 5x5 pattern to match front.

first off...

I should be able to swap to drop spindles without any trouble right? Just buy for 71-72?

It already has drop springs all around, but I plan to bag it soon. So...

Will I have to alter the 2pc. driveshaft once it's bagged?
I had a 59 Nomad wagon with bags, and kept eating carrier-bearings until I had a slip-yoke installed. Will I need that here too?

I want to add 2" lowering blocks and a 4" bolt-in notch. Will the slam bag bottom out before the axle hits in the notch?

And I think I wanna change the rearend. It was the original 6-lug, redrilled as I mentioned, but it seems very gear-bound. I was told many of the stock 72 rearends had 308 gears.
My burb seems to be screaming at 65mph on the highway, with a fairly stock 350/350 combo.

I know I'm forgetting something, but I've rambled enough for now.

Oh yeah, anyone have bagged burb pics? I looked at some on the burb sub-forum, but not too many there.

Thanks all.

Re: Several 69 Suburban chassis questions...
 

welcome,
Yes drop spindles from a 71-72 will be the ticket just now the thickness of your rotors before hand. there were two sizes.
A slip yoke or "double cardan" type driveshaft is always a good idea with adjust. suspension.
I think taller blocks could be in order depending on tire size. Last one I did that way had 4" drop perches. ( BTE pieces)
not sure on gearing, sorry.

Mine is a work in progress but link in signature. '72 that will lay FLAT. currently on 20's but suspect I have room for 22's

again welcome,
Josh

Re: Several 69 Suburban chassis questions...
 

Thanks Josh. I appreciate it.
I've been around for awhile.
I've been in the 47-59 side, the 60-66 side, and now the 67-72 side.

This burb will be our family truckster, for when all 4 of us are going, or for my wife to drive mostly daily.
I also plan to do a bagged 50 chevy truck this winter as my daily
And I have a 1929 Model A roadster pickup we're collecting parts to build a hotrod. Slow build on it.

Re: Several 69 Suburban chassis questions...
 

Oh, I forgot.

4" blocks?

I thought 2" was close to max before the trailing arm hits the frame??

I want it low, but not fully laid-out.

My old 53 Suburban would fully lay out. The running boards would lay right on the pavement.

It was cool. Until we blew a airline at 60mph on the highway, and I dropped and dragged to the left pretty violently.

Re: Several 69 Suburban chassis questions...
 

They were more of a extended spring perch than a block. Something Bill Turner Enterprises used to sell. Basically by making the "perch" taller the axle would ride higher into the notched frame before the trailing arm would hit the bottom of the frame. These were weld on in place of the original so you could correct the pinion angle.

I've attached a pic but the piece I'm talking about is sort of hiding.
One other trick is to flip the lower shock mount over and swap sides for a little extra room.

Josh