![]() |
Junction box 4 amp fuse problem
I think I've gotten most of my electrical problems fixed, but I'm still blowing the short 4 amp fuse between the battery and the junction box (small post on firewall next to battery). I've had the pickup 4 years and have never gotten the 4 amp fuse to work. Even after replacing the engine, alternator, regulator, battery, reworking the fuse box, new headlight switch, new horn relay, HEI, new dimmer switch etc., I still can't keep that fuse from blowing. I put a 30 amp fuse in it, and it works,but?? Any ideas?
Thanks, Chris |
If i remeber right that fuse feeds somthing with the ignition,maybe you added somthing on there that draws to many amps for that fuse.
|
4 amp
This wire goes to one side of your amp gauge--there is another fuse just like this on other side of rad. that goes to other side of amp gauge. Does your gauge work? Check both wires to see if they are shorted some where.
|
If you ever remove the dash with the battery connected, you will almost always blow the fuse by the firewall. Get a standard length fuse holder and put in a 10 amp fuse at least. The wiring will withstand at least 25 amps.
|
After consulting a couple of wiring diagrams, my question now is whether there should even be a fuse between the battery and junction terminal. Looks like both fuses are supposed to go between the junction box and the ammeter / cab, as jhow66 pointed out. Is the wire between the junction box and the battery actually supposed to be a solid 10 guage wire, as it shows in one of my wiring diagrams? Anyone with original setup care to comment? Thanks.
|
wire
That is the way mine is hooked. You could put a # 12 fuse link here (2 sizes smaller than wire size) and the whole system would be protected from shorts like later models had on the starter.
|
fuse link
sorry--that should be a # 14 link
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:56 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2025 67-72chevytrucks.com