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99+up common problems
Ok let's list them---
1- Steering column vibration mostly noticed going slow --off road or in parking ---the column intermediate shaft is fluted with grease taking up the shock---it gets squeezed out. There is a factory bulletin to either repack or to "stroke!" the unit---what a BS fix this is but it works for a while. 2- Windshield noise pass side---from a bug shield changing the air flow!! Tape, caulk windshield to molding or take of the bug shield. 3- Premature front brake wear---factory bulletin for "northern states!!" ie the antilock sensor looses it's ground path due to salt-rust getting under it's mount to the spindal housing. factory bulletin recall---get them to replace the pads if you can. 4- Brake drag noise from the drivers side rear---the parking brake "horse shoe" unit is dragging on the drum and wearing out. Factory bulletin replaces the spring holder and possibly the horse shoe assembly but only on manual shift trucks!!!! how is that for another BS fix from GM? OK guys, add some more as these trucks are full of BS GM issues~~~~ 5- |
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Fuel gauge (sending unit)
Speedometer Water pumps Front bumper brackets cracking out Im sure theres more.... |
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loose driver seat...
factory security system... leaking from somewhere and I can"t find out where from!.. |
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rear mains leaking
i've seen them at work with 3k mile ont eh trucks with rearmains leaking |
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4x4 dash switch
CSK |
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I had an 07 sierra classic and it was flawless for the 17k miles I had it. It was too big for the wife to drive so we traded it off on a car.
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Forgot about the stupid faulty 4x4 switch.
The tow-haul switch in the shift stalk fails due to inadequate wiring into the column. And the worst---and I have had 3 99+ trucks=5.3V8s and every one had the engine ratteling within the first 30k miles--sounds really bad in the cold butttt---they do run forever! Strong engines but one would think they could fix the stupid ratteling~~~. |
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hvac blend door servo motor.....
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I've fixed the tow haul switch on mine. Easy fix. I need a new 4x4 switch. Just haven't changed it. It has a slight CSK but Mobil One just about kills it and it's not noticable in spring/summer/fall. I've put over 50K on my truck, had 66K when I got it, it has new tires (last set lasted 40K+) and new Bilsteins, still has the factory pads and rotors, but need to be replaced soon.
I'd buy another one of these trucks in a heartbeat. |
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Based on my truck....
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My 99 had a coolent leak somewhere in the back--couldn't find it but did put some radiator stop leak into the system @ 140,000 miles. Sold it without a leak @ 188,000 miles.
Oh yea, there is that issue of cold air coming into the pass floor heater --that coating the foam rubber seal around the air box is supposed to fix---. I certainly would not pay $25,000. plus for another new chevy truck. Especially when they wouldn't even sell you one with a 5 or 6 speed manual!!!! They can go chapter 11. |
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So far the only one I have noticed on my 02 is the steering column clunk. But I have the el cheapo model, so no fancy stuff on it to break. Seems like all the GMs have the clunk since about 2000 year. Mine wife's Bonneville had the same issue.
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Never heard of any chevy truck with bad rear mains... or water pumps. |
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On my '06 it seems I have been having a beech of a time regulating the temperature; if I have it at, say, 3/4 the way up and it I push the switch down slightly, after a few minutes it starts blowing cold. This is still way up in the red (hot) area of the control. If I then nudge it up ever so slightly, after a few minutes it is cooking me out again??? |
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The flap that directs the air flow to either the defrost vents/dash vents or floor vents is controlled by a servo which goes out. Happened on my 03 Z71 but the dealer covered it. I believe they mentioned it would have cost me about $250 to repair.
Other problems are the fuel pump. If you have trouble getting the engine to start when you have less than a 1/4 tank of gas it is a symptom of the fuel pump darn close to giving up the ghost. Found a whole bunch of mud and debris in the gas tank when it was dropped to replace the pump. The dashboard ABS light and parking brake light coming on and staying on with no codes is also a common problem. From my own experience regarding electrical issues I would check all the ground connections especially the one on the top rear passenger side of the engine block. |
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2 pc driveshaft failure/vib at low miles.
General rattles Window regulators water pump #7 injector plugging |
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Mine had the common problem of the odometer/drive position indication going dark... intermittent problem. I found a guy on ebay who sells the repair service for $100 + shipping. I'm currently driving around with no gauges at all because he is fixing them and will send them back soon. He has 100% positive feedback and instrument clusters is all he does it seems. I've got my fingers crossed!
Also: -Problem with power windows only go to the right, but not left or up or down. I replaced the switch, but that was not the problem... so now what? I'm not sure. -The driver's door seal is noisy. It lets the wind in at speed. On my list to replace the seal. -The rear passenger side pop-out window no longer closes properly. Very noisy above 45-50 mph. Very annoying. I understand there is a fix for this by putting a sheetmetal screw through the hinge into the metal of the body. -Rattle from the glovebox latch -Rattle from the center console above the CD player. -Keyless entry is 'lazy' you need to press the button on the key fob multiple times to get it to unlock... this is with a brand new battery in the fob. -Seatbelts are twisted up and I don't know how to untwist them. All minor issues... other than that its a great truck and I got a pretty good deal on it. I like the 6.0 engine and 4L80e trans. Its got alot of power and I also like the lines of the silverado bodystyle. Its spacious and very comfortable inside. For a 3/4 ton, it rides alot better than my old f250. I have the LT package with power heated leather seats and they are not loose and work great. I have only owned it for a couple months. It has 111k on it. |
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Huck, On your cold air coming in, how did you say you fixed it? We just did a trip and my wife really felt a draft on that side. I did too for that matter when she was driving. Is it an easy fix? Thanks in advance..
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Piston slap especially on cold start--I bought the truck from my Dad--who bought it brand new
2000 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 6.0 litre He took it to dealer, they said "it is normal"--GREAT |
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My ABS module died a long time ago. I just pulled the fuse meaning to fix it, but it's been like 4 years now LOL. Fuel pressure reg died. And I think the water pump gasket is leaking. These trucks are notorious for that one. Not bad considering I drive it like my momma stole it and I don't do much more than change the fluids in it. And it's almost got 100k of 98% stoplight to stoplight driving! (Of course, now that I said something she will die.) |
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2) is not a problem, this is caused by aftermarket parts. 3) The problem is not premature brake wear, the problem is the faulty ABS sensor. My OEM brakes lasted over 60K miles. 4) this is not a common issue 4x4 dash switch, Ext Cab doors and fuel sending unit failure were a problem on 1999-2000 trucks, was resolved after that. Rear end gears did wipe out prematurely (60K or so). this was also resolved on later models. Pistion slap/cold start knock has NEVER shown to produce damage, there are many 200K mile plus 1999+ vortec trucks out there without issues. The rest of these sound like basic problems, not rampant throughout the trucks sold and on the road :cool: My 2000 5.3l GMC has 198K on the clock and is damn near flawless :D |
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1# is a common prolbem my wife`s avy is havin that prolbem now. do a web search its all over the net..
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Here is my list….
1) Water pump gasket leaks. Most often misdiagnosed as a $300 leaking water pump rather than $10 gaskets. 2) Engine mount failures. The Pre-2006 trucks as susceptible to the rubber portion of the engine mount to get over heated by the exhaust manifold and the rubber collapses or crumble then fall out. GM has a new engine mount with a heat shield to protect against the heat from the exhaust manifold. The new part number is 25828247. Both LH and RH mounts are the same part number. Failed original mount on left and new design on right. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3559/...5dfbf1.jpg?v=0 3) Steering column clunk from the upper intermediate shaft. The original GM bulletin advised to pack it with grease. That was a short time fix that didn’t last very long. GM has had a new design upper intermediate shaft available since early 2008. Part number 19153614 4) The electric shift 4wd system sucks period and is the most unreliable system on the entire truck. Control head failures are the most common failure but the encoder motor on the side of the transfercase is also susceptible to salt water intrusion, which will eventually lead to a failure. The transfer case control module doesn’t have the best track record in reliability either. The AutoTrac transfercase in the non-HD trucks also has a habit of burning clutches. These issues and components are all common with Dodge trucks as well being all this crap is from the same suppliers. I worked at the GM Technical Assistance in Troy, MI then later Pontiac, MI during the beginning of my automotive industry career before moving to the field. The rotation group I was in received at the time (1998) received call after call on electric shift issues on all GM trucks across the board. The S-series trucks and blazers were the worst! I went out of my way to purchase a manual shift transfercase on my ’98 Z71 and later my ’01 HD. I had no choice on the Hoe as NP8 (AutoCrap) is standard. My new used 2005 HD also has a manual shift tcase. |
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