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Stepped control arms
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I've got one of my control arms stepped 1-1/2". This is my first attempt at real fabrication and modification. I don't think this sucker is ever going to come apart. I used 1/4" steel plate for all the gussets and pieces. Everything went very smoothly and I'm confident that I did a good job. Now I just have to make the other one match, paint them, press in new ball joints, and I can put the front of my '64 back together and see how she sits with the 1-1/2" LCAs and 3" springs.
Oh and if you're wondering why I didn't just use drop spindles its because I'm an 18 year old kid with a tiny budget that can't afford a disk brake swap, let alone new spindles. But I do, however, have a welder and a nice workshop(thanks dad) and a lot of ambition! ;) |
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Here it is next to the stock one that I need to step for the other side.
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heres a little helper for yea if you check your local hot rod shop or dirt track place where the guys go to build roll cages you can get corner pieces pre fabbed for the corners for stupid cheap and just weld them in..but it lo good..can't wait to see them in the truck
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Let us know the outcome!
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Also keep in mind that you have lowered the scrub line considerably. You didn't mention what size wheels you plan to run, but this could be in issue with a small diameter rim is a flat occurs. Keep the progress pics coming. |
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And the scrub line issue is why I only stepped them 1-1/2"(well, that and bumpsteer concerns). I'll be running 15" wheels but it should be fine. If I'm not mistaken(I very well could be), I'll have 1" more clearance, as far as scrub line is concerned, than if I had used 2-1/2" drop spindles. Correct? |
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Here's the end result. Painted and fresh ball joints installed. :metal:
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looks good
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looks great i always wanted to do a set of these
but to also shorten them 1.5" to compensate for camber for the lowered stance with the dropped coils! any insights? |
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Thats cool. When I was 18 I could barely check my oil. Stay w/it and you could be the next Trepanier.
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does someone know if this works for the 66-72 models too???? I'm going to air ride and was going to cup the bags but if this gets me lower than What the heck I'm going to be welding up the lower A arm anyway.....just worried about cross memeber drag , bump steer and camber adjustment??? any input?? thanx Jeff
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Looks good on the work you did. I like the idea of doing all your own fabrication especially at your age. It looks like its gonna be a fun project. |
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Looking good good luck with it
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I've got heim rod ends coming in the mail so I can alleviate any bumpsteer issues by attaching the tie rods underneath the steering arm. And thanks for all the kind words guys! Its good to get compliments from people that know their stuff. :metal: |
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maybe i'll do a set and see how they work out let you know.....
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I had bought a set of dropped A arms from So Low way back in the day (before dropped spindles in '67-'72 year trucks). I think they were 2" drop and worked fine.
The only issue I had was without any bump stops, I came thru a dip to fast and bottomed the arms out. This caused the upper arms to over rotate the ball joint and killed one of my new upper ball joints. Make sure you put some type of bump stop to keep from bottoming the lower arm. |
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As faw as the bumpstops go I am using the new foam style (they have more absorption for the hits and allow a little more give) I will be mounting the to the upper coil towers. Your work looks great! Keep on truckin' |
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excuse me for being a newbie to this but the 1/4" you loose from te cut you gain back with the thickness of the plate????...could you put a cut in the bottom of the upper A ram near the ball joint and bend it closed (bend the ball joint mount down) to stop the bind?? and do the same when you cut the bottom??
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(.....could you put a cut in the bottom of the upper A ram near the ball joint and bend it closed (bend the ball joint mount down) to stop the bind?? and do the same when you cut the bottom??.......)
Heres how i did my LCA's. http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/q...wright1/12.jpg I ended up making new UCA's |
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thats exactly what I'm taking about!!!!
How did it work out?????? |
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the thing is when your body is 6" off the ground your tires sitting on tilt
and to correct this you must shim out the UCA alot...(about 1" off the cross member on mine) and its still 1-1 1/2" off of being perpendicular to the ground? so to correct that you'd have to take some out of the LCA..... if im wrong please correct me!!!!! dont want to work with no working results- |
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thanx I will look into it I think it makes sence to make a quick cut and weld the hard part is figuring out how much??
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