2 questions
 

i have a 70 c10 lwb i purchased a 6 lug disk brake conversion w/ 2.5" drop spindles from performanceonline.com and once i installed it the truck sits pretty i used the original spring's (bad idea) my tires stick out about 1/2" inch on both sides. I am running 275/60/15's all the way around when turning they clear but the problem i am running into is when i hit a speed bump the inner fender wells scrape and gauge my tires. I am planning to put 22's on it (before yall start, its my truck and its what i like so the 22's are going on it:metal:) so i want to fix this issue which leads me to my 1st question

besides me running smaller tires is there a way i can move the spindles inward so my tires dont stick out? will me putting new springs in the front keep my tires from scraping?

and onto my second question

site member 1low71 his build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=266234&page=3

in his thread he wrote "I moved the crossmember up 2 inches and forward 1 inch to center the wheel in the well a little better. I also moved the steering box up and forwad 1 inch as well"

has anyone else done this? i need more information on this please. I like the way his truck sits i attached a pic of his truck and mine how it sits now i dont plan on running airbags
thanks for any help

Re: 2 questions
 

Your going to have to go to a wheel dealer and get him to measure your back spacing and order your wheels to tuck

Re: 2 questions
 

ok that is what i was thinking about the wheels sticking out, but if i want them to sit flush it will still be the backspacing right?

Re: 2 questions
 

Yep

Re: 2 questions
 

I just did a 6-lug disc brake swap on my '69.
The front wheels are 15x7's with a 4" backspace. (that's the max with a 15" rim)
I had to trim up the ball joingt area of the lower control arms and grind a little on the tie-rod area of the spindles to get the wheels to work.

If you are planning on running a set of 20's you could get away with more backspacing. I don't think your 275's are going to work on the front of a lowered truck.

Re: 2 questions
 

Also on the extra 1", most aftermarket spindles do space them out, CPP offers a new one that tucks in that 1"

Re: 2 questions
 

On that particular truck with the dubs, if you look behind the rear wheel you can see daylight above the bed crossmember as the wheel wells have been chopped out. You can pretty well bet that there is no inner fender well on the front and that that a portion of the inside lip of the fender has been cut away. I may have old toot itus but I just don't see the wisdom of hacking up a nice truck to put those ugly fad wheels on them. That's my personal opinion, no need to beat me up on it or justify putting them on a truck or anything else.

Re: 2 questions
 

"I had to trim up the ball joingt area of the lower control arms and grind a little on the tie-rod area of the spindles to get the wheels to work."


what do you mean trim up? and where exactly did you grind on the tie rod?

also anybody know about moving the suspension and gear box forward? cant think of any downfalls on doing this? can anybody think of one?

Re: 2 questions
 

You have to trim the lip off the lower control arm that is located on both sides of the ball joint. I also had to grind the end of the spindle when the tie rod bolts on.

You might do a search in the suspension section. I have posted pics of the before,... but I can't find them now.

Re: 2 questions
 

That trimming would be for interference with the smaller diameter rims, and since it was described as trimming and grinding I would venture that any rims 17" diameter and larger would not need any ball joint or tie-rod mods.

When you change the backspacing you will change a lot of your driving characteristics. Keep your overall tire outside diameter about 28" (read specs for the tires you will use) and the scrub radius will at least stay the same--but the scrub effect will change because you will have more meat to the insides of the mounting surface and pivot axis.

You will feel this as a greater tendency to "toe-in" than when stock. Adding toe-out does not solve the issue, you will need a pro-aftermarket wheel mounter (not your local Pep Boys) to calculate the actual changes. SEMA's started certifying people for this.

I'm sure the people here who have reworked their rides similar to your approach, will have some input on what worked and didn't; which may be "close enough" but one of the responses already pointed out something you will have to watch out for--not every ride that looks like what you want, was done the same way you are approaching yours. It may take a while for the right someone to respond (for that and the crossmember relocation)