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Watts link
Figured you guys over here would like this. Just made it over the last week or so.
made a diff cover... (2nd attempt- warped the hell outta the first ring) http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/45...500x500Q85.jpg made the rest... http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/42...500x500Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/41...500x500Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/28...500x500Q85.jpg Dont worry im gonna cut the center bolt down. |
Re: Watts link
Well thats cool! Hope the diff cover is really strong...
Most have a brace from each axle tube |
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Its made out of 1/4 plate fully welded in and out.... its not goin anywhere
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Cool, it looks real good :metal:
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I have a question about watts in general. What is on the diff to let the watts link rotate? Is it a bearing type thingy? I would love one of these, but they are pricey!
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Looks good!
I've been interested in a watts link ever since I saw the first one, seems like the most logical way to locate axle side to side. I don't know if it's something I should pursue though, I'm only bagging and doing a c-notch. Don't want to go through the bed at all. Seems like it would be "one more thing" to have to work around if a guy was trying to get the exhaust all the way out the back though. |
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The only down side to locating the center support to the differential, is when the diff cycles through the travel, you center of gravity changes, where as if the links are mounted to the diff you can adjust you ceter of gravity, to your liking by moving the pivot point up or down, regardless, i really like your design of it.
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You would be surprised how little this whole thing cost. I think I managed to keep it right under 100 bucks. defiantly took some time though, prob 4-5 nights on it... not working fast at all though.
I used a big uniball at the center link. Im not 100% sure how that is gonna work out. But if it doesn't and I have to re-make the center its not the end of the world for me. The whole truck is a learning experience. And you're right, its not the most tunable, or best way to set up a watts link, but the only reason I used it was to keep the axle centered and it does perfectly. If I didn't have to do something like this I wouldn't. I played with a track bar for a while before I just gave up and built it. Im happy with it for now though. |
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How did you make the center S?
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Plasma and a Tig- and just a little bit of grinding :lol:
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How thick is the flange? It looks like the stock one?
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Does anyone offer a Watts for a decent price? KP wants $459, and I realize they are a great company(I have their parallel on my truck) but it seems kinda expensive...
Dont mean to hijack, just wondering... :metal::metal: |
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The flange is the same 1/4' that the rest of the cover is made out of. I had to make two of them because I warped the first one (oops) this one is nice and flat though.
There used to be a company called Totally polished if i remember right that made a pretty nice one. idk what happened to them though. |
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Last time I built a diff cover I used 3/8" for the flange and had it blanchard ground afterward. The grinding was about your entire budget though.
Totally Polished is no longer around from what I can tell. I've been thinking about building a DIY style Watt's link, that you can cut the bars to length and weld in a threaded bung, with cut to fit frame tabs. |
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TP's site is still up and active, and they list their watts for 549 + ship. it is a nice unit but 549....wow.
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Twisted you need to get on it and offer that kit. I'm not really sure that I could use a watts link anymore since I back halfed my frame and it doesn't come down anymore, When the notch goes up it stays the same height all the way back. Do yall think I could maybe still use a watts link?
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I like it. I have been tossing watts & parallel 4 vs tri 4 around in my head for a bit.
Any reason you went with a whole cover vice just a ring like alot of folks do? Also if you can you post some pics of the rest of your 4 link setup fletch? Thanks |
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With your frame and it not coming down after the axle, you would basically just have some different tabs to make it work. One set would likely be short, and on the side of the frame rail. One set would be long coming down off of the frame rail, and have to be built and braced well since they would be longer. |
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I dont want to step on anyones toes but heres a link for a watts link! http://www.dallashotrodparts.com/watts.html The price is really good and they have diffrent styles. about 300 cheaper then the KP watts
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I am sending you a PM.
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dont use that company guys, bad joo joo with them! heres my pic twisted
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ruffrida2005, not standing up for that company at all but I remember when all the hooplah happened with BYC. However if you read the "about us" he has posted on the site you linked to, it at least looks like he's going to make good on old stuff and understands what he did wrong last time. The fact he is man enough to post that info out there instead of stay anonymous as he could should count for something. It also looks like he now understands supply & demand and has some constraints to avoid putting himself in the same position again.
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Robin i fully understand what your saying about him making right. After i talked to Twisted I really looked at the Watts links that he had and found a lot of flaws in it. Most of the stuff is made good. But what i find wrong is the way that the Heim joints attach to the center pivot. If you had two of them and used a end link between it would work great!
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Actually the latest design has a 2 piece center crank. one plate on each side of the heims. The plate is cut on a CNC out of AR500 armor plate. Thats armor like a SWAT truck is made out of. so you wont be bending it or drilling it.
I never had any issued from anyone about the original design either. The best thing to do on a watts if you dont have the money to buy is is make one. they are simple to make and theres no secrets in them. |
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