subwoofer placement
 

alright- i've had my 10" sub in a box sitting on the hump for a while. I just took it out b/c of some breakins that have happened at school and I like having the space. the problem is i have the tank in cab and it wont fit under the seat b/c they have power motors under there. does anybody have any ideas? would it be possible and has anybody tried to make a box that fits up under teh glove box? thanks, -Nick

why dont you build you a console to go on the hump..then you could have the 10 and a couple cup holders or something. on the under glove box thing..it seems that i saw something on it a long time ago and thought it was cool. but i have no clue where i saw it

ttt
 

i would rather not have anything on the hump...i have the ashtray thing with cup...i really think i'll do something under the glovebox...any ideas? anybody done it?

I have a Kicker free-air 10 mounted in an enclosure with an open back. It sits on the floor underneath the passenger side of my bench seat, but it is tight! The only way it could be stolen was if the seat is completely removed. It is also completely out of sight. I would post a pic, but am having server problems. :mad:

also, if anyone has any pics of the sub mounted under the glove box, please post them...

What kidn of seat do you have?

i ahve seats out of an '89 crown victoria...they are 2 pieces for power but come almost together in the middle for 3rd seat...
There is only a few inches under the seats b/c of the power motors...

i dont think you will be able to fit a 10 under the glove box will you?

I dont think that under the glove box will work. Mabe but, you might loose the glove box to have the sub.

i was thinking like closing in the area under the glovebox to the firewall...i know i'd lose leg space

hey man. in regards 2 not having room, foen tuckers classics in reno nevada and get a tank relocating kit. it coms with a blazer 21 gallon tank, all the strapping, hardware, sending unit. stuff the gas tank under the box, then you`ve got miles of room behind yer seat, and u can stuff 2 twelves in there, or whatever u wanna do, i did the speaker on the hump thing, and it blows. but think about moving the tank. it is so worth it, and the kits only a couple of hundred bucks

YOu can lose the glovebox and build a custom enclosure but I suspect you will have HELL with vibrations. By the time you build the box and get things SEMI-tight, you'll have an assload of time in the del and will ahve been better of moving your tank. But I always like to see unique sh!t so go for it! :)

umm... yea im 19 and i've ran into the same problems. I also though of putting a 10" where the glove box goes, cause once u take it out there is plenty of room. however, it probably wont sound too hot the audio guys in town said. they said a really nice expensive pair of 6x9's would hit pretty hard and sound better than a 10" not put in right. I would say though, some 6x9's do hit pretty hard. but nothin beats a sub. just my 2 cents.

I think you can buy a 6" RS bazooka and load it in the passenger side cab corner where your jack handle goes. If you line that area with dynomat extreme the base should sound pretty good. I thought I was going to raise my stick seat up about 1/2 inch and put it under but i dont want to sit so high. That thing will handle 300 watts and hits rather hard. I am pretty sure you can fit it in the corner though. Im going to try it next weekend and I will let you know.

FILICE72C10,

Please let us know how that works. I'm thinking of doing the same thing.

Thanks,
Ken

I saw a truck mag where they cut the front part of the floor[the part that tilts up at an angle] and built boxes and installed 12's on both sides, then put the carpet back over it. It was really trick and no one would ever figure out where the kick was coming from

From my experience it depends on how much bass you are getting from you 10". I have a 98 accord with a 10" Alpine Type R in the trunk and get lots of rattles from back there. I would suggest (depending on finances, experience, and patience) to relocate the tank (better traction too) and take the time to either undercoat or dynamat the whole cab. I have yet to do this (kinda pointless when you the floorboards are rusted through).

I did see an article in Truckin? a few years ago where they were doing a major kick ass system in a new suburban and took out all the carpet, seats, etc. and sprayed a Rhino Liner on the whole inside to cut down on noise and rattles.

Good luck! Let me know what you did. I am still about 6 months (if everything goes well) from doing the system in my truck.

Dynamat wow must be nice I was pissign around this weekend and got ahold of some industrial cardboard and put it in the doors and wow what a difference no more rattles and more importantly I saved 50 bucks for beer money. I have 2 audiobahn 10's under my seat I had to put 1 inch risers tho but still works great

True, some 6x9's hit pretty good. I have a pair of Eclipse 6x9's mounted in the back of my '81 Cadillac SDV, and they sound really good, probably as good as a single 10" sub, but then again, they have a really huge trunk to resonate sound through. In a truck where there isn't much space, they would probably wouldn't sound nearly as good, at least on the bass side of things.

I'd have to say that the best all around solution would be to get a Blazer tank relocating kit, as others have mentioned. The space to mount two 12's behind the seats would be well worth the time/money/labor involved, IMHO.

I was going to suggest relocating the gas tank, but you beat me to it. He could also throw out the old tank and put in a fuel cell if he didn't want to go the Blazer tank route. But yeah, you could put some bigger and better sounding subs in the area behind the bench seat. I second your opinion. :bowtie:

First off, you don't need 2 twelves in a truck cab. Well unless you want to hear rattles you could. A single 10 is perfect for our trucks. Although, I am running Infinitiy Kappa 6x9's in the door panels and 6 inch Kappa's on a board where the single stock speaker is. They run off of a 40x4 kenwood amp and it sounds great. I did spend the money and dynomat the whole cab though. If I had to do it over I would pull the tank and mount a 8 or a 10 in between my buckets above the console with seperates in the doors.

one option is to build a box that will fit in the kick panel area, they're tough to build though because the space is an awkward shape, and I don't know how well a 10 would fit in there, maybe eights (on both sides for imaging puposes) would be a better deal. look around for Auto Sound and Security or Car Audio magazines, they often have articles related to building pods or at least some pictures to give you an idea.

another option would be to (as said before) relocate that gas tank... you could potentially fit a wall of subs in there. you also seem to want to move the driver because of some theft going on at school? if yes, then moving it out of sight is your best bet. and by getting the fuel tank out of there, you lessen your chances of a cab fire or even worse, a fiery explosion behind your head in a traffic accident. I'm sure there are plenty of other reasons for moving the tank... as cheyenneman said a single 10 is just fine for these trucks, twelves are too big, require too much space, and generally don't respond as well as 10s, 12s are more appropriate for autos with trunk space.

stick with the 10, stick it and your amp behind the seats. bolt them down well, and remember to turn it down near your destination, especially near school or home.

only 1 10, I'm stuffing 2-10's &2-12's in mine. Of coarse I relocated the tank. I was gonna stuff 2-15's in there but the speaker was too deep.:D So if I can't have 2 BIG ones 4 medium size will do.:cool: