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Rusty Frame Painting Help
I have the box off of my truck and would like
to paint the frame while it's off. I used a needle scaler to knock off all of the rust scale and loose paint. Has anyone had good results using Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and then painting? |
Re: Rusty Frame Painting Help
I wouldn’t use Rustoleum or any other hardware sold rust paint. I’ve know people to use these “homeowner” products and that don’t stand up very well. Personally I would recommend POR15. At first I was unsure of its quality but after using I think it’s probably the best product in the world. Lol. It cost more but it’s worth it. No matter what paint you use make sure you use some sort of degreasing wash to make sure all the oils are off and out of the rust.
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Re: Rusty Frame Painting Help
check out this site it may give you some ideas. They carry some good products.
http://www.eastwood.com/ |
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There is also a product that is a "knock off" of Por-15 called Pro16. It appears to be atleast $20-30/ cheaper. Trevor
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i 2nd using the por 15
its great stuff |
Re: Rusty Frame Painting Help
sandblast, zinc primer and then top coat with a quality poly bed liner product!
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I like por-15 also.
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Re: Rusty Frame Painting Help
First, make sure all "layered" rust is removed, anything will fail if not.
Sand blasting is the best way for a permanent job. Try Harbor Freight or Tractor supply and get a cheap sandblaster. I have seen good results with Rustoleum quarts brushed on, not spray bombs. But like others noted, por 15 is the best and is what I use. |
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I plan on doing the same thing this spring. I am going to try KBS products. I bought the Rust seal and the Topcoat in a kit. Then i went back and bought the Kit they had to seal the gas tank.
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Someone posted this up a while back. Havent tried it, but after reading the web page i was sold.
http://www.masterseriesct.com/page7.html |
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Im about ready myself to coat my chassis.Ive always heard of por15 as being the topshelf product for rust prevention.So thats the route in takin.
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I did my Chevelle's firewall, took almost a whole quart, brushed, 2 coats.
I was unable to get 2 coats on my Chevelle's frame with one quart. BTW, I used all of their prep products and in general the results are good, except for where it's peeling. I'm using SPI epoxy primer with a topcoat this time. Even if epoxy chips, the rust WILL NOT creep under it and spread. Obviously you need a good surface to start with for that to be true, but epoxy will successfully encapsulate minor rust. A pliable topcoat should protect it well enough to last me another 40 years ;) Get a GOOD respirator to spray POR, it is highly carcinogenic when inhaled. Read the MSDS! |
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i used por15 also and it worked good for me
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I'VE POWDERCOATED THEM, BRUSHED ON POR-15, & BRUSHED ON RUSTOLIUM. IT ALL COMES DOWN TO WHAT YOU CAN AFFORD AT THE TIME. THEY ALL WORK... OBVIOUSLY THE EXPENSIVE METHODS WORK BETTER THAN THEIR CHEAPER ALTERNATIVES BUT DOING ANYTHING IS A WHOLE LOT BETTER THAN DOING NOTHING. THEY ALL REQUIRE A LITTLE MAINTENANCE SOMETIME DOWN THE ROAD. WIRE WHEELING A FRAME A IS ONE HECK OF A DIRTY JOB. (IF ANY OF YOUR BUDDYS OFFER YOU LOTS OF FREE BEER TO HELP WIRE WHEEL A FRAME....DON'T DO IT)....:lol:...JOHN
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Re: Rusty Frame Painting Help
por 15 is expensive junk AND you have to top coat it to protect it from uv damage. no matter how much prep, sooner or later it flakes off like dead skin. i will never buy that product again. powder coating is a much better route
sandlbasting is the most effective way to get down to good metal. zinc (primer) helps counteract electrolysis and prevent corrossion from even starting poly bed liner is less prone to cracking and can take a beating better than paint that is roughly the route i plan to take on all future chassis projects. heck, you can use it on floorboards and any other surface that doesn't have to be show quality smooth. and the color choices are nearly endless these days. |
Re: Rusty Frame Painting Help
Powder coating chips off as soon as a pebble in the road hits it. :lol: Short of a nuclear bomb, POR stays on. If you had it flake off, you did not prep the surface correctly. UV does not damage it, it just discolors it. The chassis doesn't get much sunlight exposure so that usually is not a problem.
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