lift and steering
 

A friend has two trucks (73-87) that have 4'' lifts and I was thinking about doing the same to my trucks until I drove both of his trucks last night. When you hit a bump in the road the steering wheel turns back and forth until you get passed the bump. He said he has gotten used to it, but I don't think I could. He has added all new shocks, tire rod ends and ball joints, not to metion the correct steering arm for the 4" lift on both trucks. Any suggestions on how to correct this?

Thanks,
Keith

Adding a steering stabilizer or dual stabilizers will help to dampen the bump steer, if he doesn't already have one.

Agree....... sounds like its time for steeting stablizers.

To understand what is causing this, you have to understand what bumpsteer is. If you really want to know more about what is is, I suggest trying a search on coloradok5.com.
But the real issue is what to do about it.

The cheapest thing to do about it is to run a steering stabilizer - maybe a dual steering stabilizer for about $100-150 from Rancho or any other multitude of manufacturers. You need to understand that this is a bandaid for the problem, but an effective bandaid.
The way to fix the problem is to have crossover steering. This is expensive and simply not always the best way to spend money on a truck. The stabilizers will work fine and you can spend the money on other things and be happier.
-- Mike

Isn't that the purpose of a crossover steering set up, to eliminate bumpsteer?

Crossover does two good things:
1. Almost completely removes bumpsteer
2. Lets you still turn left even if your left front tire is articulating up.

When I think in terms of value for money spent, it doesn't sound like the best thing for his truck. His main complaint is the bumpsteer over speedbumps. A dual steering stabilizer will do a lot to help reduce that. It does not fix the cause, but not fixing the cause is not always the worst thing.





It is a good thing. But it is expensive. Even on a one ton front end (which is the cheapest to do) it costs.
Here's what I paid:
2wd steering box, rebuilt - about $150.
Pitman arm - $50
Steering arm - $90
Draglink - $100
Tie rod ends for draglink - $60
Engine crossmember (to clear draglink) - $150

And honestly, that's the CHEAP way to do it. Some people buy it in a kit, and it's usually more $$. And if you don't have a 1 ton front end, you then have to pay for flat top knuckles and machine work on them.

Before anyone jump my case about the steering box - yes, you can use just the sector shaft from a 2wd box, but then you still have a worn box. WHen you do an upgrade, you really should rebuild the related components. However, just a sector shaft is around $30.
About the crossmember - Yes you can cut the lip off the stock one, but all the crossmember I have seen are cracked as is. Cutting the lip will weaken them a little more. I don't like that idea. I removed my cracked engine xmember and like my new one a lot.
-- Mike

I had a couple of old beater trucks one was lifted the other wasn't. When going down the road and hit a bump the frontend would wobble. I checked the front end and both had worn ball joints that would let the frontend shake. P.S. I was just rambling I know his buds trucks have new ball joints.:D

I have 2 new steering stablizers here waiting to be painted and put on. The ones I have have been on there for 7 years so its time. They are a must with big tires!

Mudder are your stablizers the ones that are stacked or the ones that face opposite directions. Which ones are the best arangement, or does it matter

Steering stabilizers are nothing more than shocks that are valved 50/50. It doesn't matter if you have them facing each other or one on top of the other.
Most aftermarket kits have them stacked, one on top of the other.
-- Mike

Mine are on top of each other. I dont think it matters how they are. Mine are Rancho and thats the lnly way I have seen the brackets for them. I don't think you need two shocks till you get to running 35's.