Custom made tractions bars
 

I've just returned from a big snow Chirstmas and learned more how much traction my truck does not have in icy conditions. Icy conditions will always slow down any vehicle. Getting stuck in a church parkinglot in 2 inch thick ice made me think about dry weather traction.

First, I will have a posi-trac or locker installed next time I take my truck to cold icy snow conditions. This will then only work if my front airdam is not used a snow plow. I had to park my truck for four days due to snow accumulation and plowed snow. Another problem was front anti-sway bar. It's even lower than the airdam. The bar sure has its share of steet scars and road kills.

My question regards the use of tractions bars. Are they legal for street use? My brother's best friend made some for his truck. The bars are made of harden steel and bolt under the axle and below the leaf springs. He needs them since he has a '87 with a 454 making 500+ HP!! Even with the high altitude he is running mid/high 13's. He could break 12's if he used 4.11s instead of 3.73 gears. The custom made bars look great on his truck. He is willing to make some really cheap for my truck. I want them but are tracion bars street legal? My truck is already lowered and addition of the bars will help from bottom-in-out without worrying on breaking a leaf spring. My truck does not have the short heavy weight leaf spring. The bars will sure attract more street attention not to mention the cops too.

Anybody use traction bars on their truck? How cheap? How cheap is $70.00? (The quality of welding and workmanship is outstanding)

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gchemist
1983 Custom Truck
TX Plates: "BAD BOW"
http://www.geocities.com/abetterchemist/

traction bars are legal last time I checked. I think its lakewood that makes standerd [read: universal] traction bars for like $40. But if your friend makes exellent quaility bars made just for your truck, $70 might be worth it.

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1978 chevy c10
383 stroker,10:1 compression,vortec heads, roller rockers,performer RPM intake, Demon 650 double pump carb, MSD ignition, headman headers, muncie four speed, 3.73 12 bolt rear.

Unless somebody knows something I don't, traction bars are useless on our trucks. Traction bars work to keep the axle housing from turning under load, re: with axle above springs. With our housings being under the leaf springs, they don't work.



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Mike

1985 Chevy C-10
Mike's 73-87 Chevy Pickup Site

Another one of those "gotcha" line Mike...
You are correct, they are worthless on stock suspension setups, and no one makes them for that. Here is the "gotcha".......

BUT, if you have flipped the axle to lower the truck, you are in buisness. If you are talking about the extra helper spring being removed, this is no big deal. I drove one with out them, and I ain't easy on the trucks.

Got any pics of this truck? and the bars, I would like to see them. Traction bars are completely legal as far as I know. Especially here in Alabama, or as Troy says "godforsaken Alabama"

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Chris Lucas
1973 Chevy C-10
1975 Chevy Silverado
Captkaos' Page

What about ladder bars? What's the difference between ladder bars and just reg. traction bars, or is there any?? I just think they would look cool.....

<grin>


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Mike

1985 Chevy C-10
Mike's 73-87 Chevy Pickup Site

Silverado6.6
This is just my opinion, but I wouldn't put ladder bars on my truck if you paid me, ALOT. They are great for cheap, simple traction devices used on the street, but the stink as far as actuall suspensions go. If you are going to spend the money for ladder bars, spend it on a 4 link.

That being said,
Traction bars: the good kind, basically replace the plate that holds the rearend to the spring and has a bar that runs out and under the spring eye. At the end it has a rubber "bumper" that is used to allow "shock" load to take place and inhibit wheel hop. The good ones work well, and are an addition to the suspension setup.
Ladder Bars: These weld onto the rear axle housing and bolt to a front crossmember, after the optimum pinion angle is found. The front crossbar "locates" the rearend. If you have these and use leaf springs, you need isolators that allow the axle to "roll" up and down the leaf spring. This is required to keep the rearend from binding. Consequently, ladder bars are great for drag racing, but SUCK for a rear suspension. Pinion angle is constantly changing because of the "set" posistion of the axle housing.

Mike
Made you smile. http://sam.wood.tripod.com/smilies/naughty.gif

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Chris Lucas
1973 Chevy C-10
1975 Chevy Silverado
Captkaos' Page

Ok ! Looks like everyone has hit you with the deal about traction bars. Now for the Locker ?
A locker works great if you are on anything BUT ice. I know, this past week we had some ice and snow that covered the roads. The wife was stuck on the road and could not get home.
So I took out my 4x4 that is locked F/R. Everything was great until I had to make a turn. Thats when the lockers ingauged (F/R), the truck would not turn, wheels turned all the way to the left, truck just kept going straight. Thank goodness I was only going about 5-10 mph. The front tires went off the road into the ditch, then it made a sharp turn to the left. As for me I think the lockers work great on anything but ICE. Im sure if you ask around others have there own ideas about them. How about you Capt.? Got anything to add about Lockers? Here is a photo of my truck. Keep in mind It's not a Chevy ! =( http://sites.netscape.net/tmtoolmans/mightymoe2.jpg

Tim Lucas

[This message has been edited by Toolmaster (edited 01-04-2001).]

Thanks for all the replies.

I'll add a little more information to the traction bars. The actual cost is $50.00 bucks!! I thought I'd pay him $70.00 so he buys the bolts and rubber stoppers. After all the work, then have shipped to me for installation. I wish I had taken a picture of the bars installed on the '87. The bars extend forward and back of the axel. Travel lenght on the front is less than 2.5 inches before the stopper would touch the leaf spring. I'm not sure about the back side. The bars are made from tubular steel. The tube steel is 3 to 4 inches square. I really only want the traction bars for looks. Since I have a roll pan installed, you can virtually see the entire axel very clear.

The locker issue is something different. My truck is only 2WD so I'm adding the slip/locker on the rear. The PowerTrax no slip system is one of my top choices. I would not put a locker on the front of a 4WD unless I was doing some deep sand or heavy snow driving. Very slow driving is required for front end lockers.

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gchemist
1983 Custom Truck
TX Plates: "BAD BOW"
http://www.geocities.com/abetterchemist/

you were talking about your sway bar hitting,
earlyclassic makes a kit for like 20 bucks that has brackets that are shorter so you get more ground clearance,

nate68,

Is there a web site I can visit. I'm interested in the shorter brackets. Do they have anti-sway bars for the rear too?

Gerardo

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Gerardo
1983 Custom Truck
TX Plates: "BAD BOW"
http://www.geocities.com/abetterchemist/

The brackets from Early Classic can be found here: http://www.earlyclassic.com/swaybarskits.html

There are a few people who make rear sway bars. Addco, Belltech, and I think Herb Adams. I have a list somewhere at home.


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Chris Lucas
1973 Chevy C-10
1975 Chevy Silverado
Captkaos' Page

disagree
 

i know this is a year later, but i am sorry to disagree capt. , but ladder bars FAR outperform leaf suspensions with or without traction bars anyday. triangulated 4 link is probably a step above that even. check out the new chevy subs, they are going to 4 link too.


www.competitionengineering.com


www.airride.com


just some sites for more info. thats my .02 worth.

:D
:flag:

wow, this is old:p

:eek: Must have been bored to read back that far. But for me, every bit of info i read makes me smarter. So im told

This is old. I do however now have pictures of the traction bars I bought. Check them out there http://www.geocities.com/abetterchem...ustombars.html
I do have a set that I put on ebay but no bites. The bars are in pieces so someone would have to finish them. If anyone has any question just post.

Here is the old listing

Here we go, bringing something back from the dead again. :)

Mike

G, i thought awhile back you and your brother had made some of these traction bars and already had them on your truck ?

He did/does, this is a REAL old thread.

-Jeff

Just a couple of points:

- our trucks are useless in the snow unless you have a 4wd, wide tires makes the problem even worse. A quick fix is to add about 400+ lbs in the rear for traction, cement patio stones work well for this.

- check with your local authorities for the legality of traction bars but I've never heard of them being illegal.

- if your looking for straight line traction don't use sway bars.

- I would think that one of the best ways to get better straight line traction would be to drop the rear lower than the front, add weight to the rear by moving the battery and gas tank, don't use sway bars, and use loose front shocks. I know that most of this is not practical but it would probably work.



Ken

this mug must be old. I was confused. I could have sworn he had the custom bars on his truck :)

Eddie,

I think Gerardo is only wanting to brag about his traction bars.

He still thinks they work. He don't realize it's only because he runs a 305. I've said it before and I'll say it again, I can't wait until he gets the 350 done. Then he will really be able to put the things to a test. A wimpy 305 like he has wouldn't spin the tires if he took the bed off.

Sorry G, I couldn't resist. Only kidding of course. :D

BTW, when are you going to get the 350 built and installed. Talk's cheap you know? I know Rome wasn't built in a day, but come on? lol

BTW, when you get the 350 put in, you need to buy a boat next. The 305 will have a use then. HaHaHa. :D:D


Mike

305 can't spin the tires?? Hey just checkout my videos. Especially the 1/8th mile. That's from a 1000 RPM launch. If I power brake it I could light them babies up. :p

Mike,
I'm fixing to order the front end rebuilt kit next week. The rebuild parts need to be sandblasted and cleaned up. I have not decided which way to approach the clean up. POR or powder coating. I think I'm going POR since I can't all the front suspension off. The engine bay will probably recieve some of the same treatment. Once the suspension is ready for installation the 350 is next. I plan on taking off the entire front end and do both installations at the same time. As of this week I'm working night shift. :( The recent layoffs really hit our group hard. I don't know how long I can do nights but I'll give a short try. At least to finish the immediate installations. I'll have 3/4 days off every other week so I'll have plenty of time to work on my truck.

Don't know about the boat but a wave runner is very likely. :cool:

Sounds good. Can't wait until you get it done. I can hear you now. :D

Bad news about the job. It sucks I know. Well, actually, all jobs suck if you ask me. lol