gutter seal
 

What is everyone using to seal up the gutter area up on the roof and goes down the back of door. I saw one body shop use some self leveling compound and looked really nice until it got to the area in back of the door where the gravity took over!

Re: gutter seal
 

I think 3M makes something not sure

Re: gutter seal
 

Shoot some Epoxy primer and then use 3M 08307 Automix Self-Leveling Seam Sealer. The back side can be done. I made a tool out of plastic (like a small putty kinfe)that fit in the grove and used to level it out.

Re: gutter seal
 

X2

Here's a tip for you,

Mask off the side of the cab under each driprail and the door jams about a foot down and just let the excess run down until it hardens.

Also, you will need to get a applicator gun especially for that seam sealer. I read somewhere that some paint stores may rent one, I don't know, fortunatly my friend is a painter so I was able to borrow one for the weekend from the shop where he works. And like Hawker 7 said, per the directions you must first put down epoxy or urethane primer. It can't go over bare metal or etch primer.

Re: gutter seal
 

The self-leveling filler is sandable after it dries, so if you don't like the look of some of it, you can sand it smooth, and maybe skim some more on if needed.

Re: gutter seal
 

The 3M seam sealer works just as good as the dual tube epoxy system and it's only about $10 as opposed to the waaaaaaaaaaaay more expensive epoxy type. I highly recommend it.

Re: gutter seal
 

Here's what I used. It was $11. Specifically made for drip rails, they said.

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s.../Driprail2.jpg

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s.../Driprail7.jpg

Re: gutter seal
 

I have used both products. Initially I used the drip-chek and it was a messy nightmare during application. After letting it sit and dry for 3 days I went back to check on it and found that there were multiple places it hadn't even stuck to the primer, had lots of bubbles underneath and looked just awful - it would do nothing but allow the drip rail to rust and corrode, not to mention be very bumpy since it remains rubbery and is unsandable(smooth anyway). I spent the next 4 hours with a wire wheel removing it all and prepping the rail once again for another product, this time I went with the 8307 Automix. I placed the truck on level ground, shot it into the drip rail and watched magic happen in front of my eyes. It looked flawless except for the vertical sides where I would let it slowly run down as it hardened and kept wiping the excess from running down the door. After a longer than needed 1 hour sit time(big whoop compared to 3 days!), I began sanding the vertical pieces smooth. It looks flawless and was well worth the 30 bucks more for the product and gun rental. I spent $80 trying both kinds, 8307 Automix all the way, you'll regret it if you don't man!

Re: gutter seal
 

I used a product called marglass its a little hard to work with but one good trait it has is it doesn't run down the back of your cabs drip rails (worked great for me) just have to get after it soon as it sets up. used my finger as a sanding profile. blends with the drip edge to cab. sorry, no pics I'll work on that. give it a try on small stuff first . dries real hard + no cracking so far its been four years! best of luck, Pat

Re: gutter seal
 

Thanks for all your ideas, now I just have to choose one of them and go with it:chevy:

Re: gutter seal
 

Uh... I feel like an idiot. But what is this for? Just to keep the rails from rusting out? Or to smooth them away? Havent gotten to this yet...

Re: gutter seal
 

Sem products makes a seam sealer that is 2 part but you put it in a special gun and it squeezes out together, that works great as well this is what i plan to use on my truck when i get to it ...lol

Re: gutter seal
 

No need to feel bad. I've learned lots here, and have asked several "dumb" questions myself. If you look closely at the second picture of the yellow truck, you can see that the sheet metal of the roof skin is just spot welded to the gutter part. The seam sealer seals up these pieces of metal, and keeps water from getting into the cab, and running down the inside of the windshield channels, rusting everything out.

You can find plenty of trucks in the builds and projects section where this has leaked, and the inside of the cab is rusted out because of it

Re: gutter seal
 

I don't want to hijack the thread, but I was just about to post the same question.

Is there any reason I shouldn't use the 3M seam sealer that comes in a caulking tube (single tube, not a mix product).

For that matter, is the reason for not using bondo because of the "flex" at this point in the cab?

Again, apologies for jumping in, I figured we'd all learn easier if the info is all in one thread.

Thanks

Re: gutter seal
 

The first time I did mine I used 3M Fast and Firm. It looked good at first but as it cured over several weeks it shrunk, cracked, and broke loose from the sides.

Re: gutter seal
 

mdwilf, I haven't used the single tube stuff but imagine that it is isn't much different than the check-seal. The 2 part stuff's greatest property is that it self levels and flows, then cures quickly. It will look like a pro did it, remain flexible, and is sandable....I saw that stuff right next to the check-seal and 2 part epoxy and just bit the bullet and got what everyone had suggested. Even something with the consistency of RTV is going to tough to work with - there is nothing better than pumping the goo into the drip rail and watching it just go flat with zero involvement!!;)

Re: gutter seal
 

Yep, Beatcoaster is right on the money, 2 part mixtures are to me the ticket ( like sem's stuff) and i've seen it in action great stuff