original or stainless firewall
 

I have a 68 sw and I am pretty sure I will have to take the firewall off as it has serveral spot of rust, top and bottom. So if I have to replace this firewall I am thinking about a stainless firwall, I 've see it done before not sure on the specific model of vehichle but have seen it. I am just going to throw this question out there as see where it may take me. How hard would it be to shave the firewall and put a stainless one in. Has anyone seen or done this or even herd of it on these trucks. Thanks for all replies. I will post a pic of the truck as it sits now.

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

stainless is great// a real difficult material to work with however cutting and bending requires specific specialized tools once done tho looks grwgreat for years with minimal maintence

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

Pretty simple deal, really. Just cut out the original firewall, leaving an inch flange all the way around to fasten the new one two. Now you have a rough template, just remember to add in you inch or so. i would recommend doing the whole thing in cardboard, then transfer the template to your sheet of stainless, you don't wanna buy it twice!

I would then use nutserts (Sp) in the flange and button head stainless fasteners to put it together!

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

Like stated above I don't think it would be that hard. A plasma cutter would make it a piece of cake.

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

I have a plasma cutter but no way to bend it.

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

Nah! No nutcerts. A Magna 303 welding rod will allow you to weld the new stainless firewall to the old mild steel but....you've gotta use a TIG. It's not hard...a bit like rubbing your belly with your left hand and patting yourself on the head with your right while you jump on one foot!

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

B$ wasting money on a sheet of stainless go to salvation army or some other junk store and buy a used stainless pot. see what your results r with cutting it in half and finiching the edges then for the heck of it drilla half dozen or so holes in it

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

Actually to you can also use the smaw (stick) process. You will have to use a 309 dis-simillar metals rod. (a b***h to weld) Im not sure how well it will bond i wouldnt think it would be too brittle though.

But no doubt it can be done in one way or another.

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

Why stainless may I ask. are you going to polish it?

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

Why stainless, does have to be stainless but the ones I saw look clean, neat, help throws a lot of light in the engine bay. I would think it is fairly easy to clean and if I already have my truck tore down that far why not look into doing something a little different than you see everyday. But no means is the set in stone. I will throw in another pic of one of the problem spots

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

Its just that it is a lot of work. We sell a smooth firewall from Direct sheetmetal that would make a good pattern but I don't have one it stock.your tunnel is the problem. These are squared off.

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

you can also use a wire feed with 309 stainless wire.

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

Well I have also found a 68 cab with new rockers, cab corners, frenched antena with a clean title. I may just forget all the cutting and welding and replace the cab. As I also have rust concerns on the main cab supports (not sure that is the correct name) but the main supports were the doors bolt on. I will post a pic of the area and then anyone that has dealt with this before feel free to chime in and let me know you thoughts or advice. If you look just below and a little foward of the lower door hinge you will see the rust is all the way thru that main beam. But if the other cab does not have this rust it maybe cheaper to replace my cab than repair.

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

I did go look at a different cab I could had bought for 200 bucks and it had a good firewall and most of the floor pan was good except under the gas tank was rusted thru and someone drilled a bunch of 1/4 in. holes in the pillars on inside back of the cab. I think they stuck speakers up there some how and now wanted the sound to get out plus they also cut a place in the back of the cab for a third brake light. It did have a 72 disk brake front end but if I have to cut and weld I might as well cut and weld on the one I got over paying for a diferrent one to cut and weld on. Plus with my cab I will get to try the stainless firewall.

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

Replace the firewall with stock or smoothed sheet metal and paint it. Why you ask b/c like Chip Foose said "when you open the hood you want thier eyes to be guided at the engine, like the crown jewel of the project not everything around it". Just my .02

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

I have the firewall reomved from the truck but now it is getting to the very hot part of the summer and not sure how much will get done except for just a short while I cn work in the morning on weekends but here is a pic of it as it now sits.

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

I've got a nice firewall that is stock 71 if you are interested. mark

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

Thanks Mark I will keep that in mind but I plan on making a stainless one and if I went back to a orginal type I still have to modify it for a vintage ac package anyway.

Re: original or stainless firewall
 

I have got my cab off the frame now and will start cleaning the frame and I am thinking of farmin out the firewall stuff to a guy that done this before as my welding skills are a bit to be desired I think. I will post pics later