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-   -   New wiring, new temp switch, new gauge, still not working (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=405201)

alden 05-30-2010 01:13 PM

New wiring, new temp switch, new gauge, still not working
 
Hey folks, the stock thermostat has never worked on my truck (1959 Fleetside, 235 inline 6, manual 3 speed with granny gear if that makes a difference) since I bought it but I figured after replacing the wiring and the switch that would do it, but no luck. I just replaced the gauge today and am still getting nothing. My multimeter (just like this):

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...3482345000.jpg

just blew a fuse so I can't use it at present, but once I get it working again what should I be testing (and for that matter, what setting should I have it on)?

Thanks!
Alden

JML55 05-30-2010 11:50 PM

Re: New wiring, new temp switch, new gauge, still not working
 
1 Attachment(s)
Here is a basic temp gauge circuit, hope this help.

alden 05-31-2010 11:03 AM

Re: New wiring, new temp switch, new gauge, still not working
 
thanks. As far as I can tell I've got everything wired right. I've got the new temp switch in the hole right next to the valve cover, I've got the ignition switch wire going to the t/s connection on the ignition and to the "ign" connection on the temp gauge, the sending wire is going to the sender connection on the thermostat gauge and to the temp switch.

I'm not really sure what I should even be testing with the multimeter once I get the new fuse though.

Also how quickly should I see any movement on the temp gauge? I have only run the truck for a few minutes at a time at this point. The temps outside are in the high 80's/low 90's if that makes a difference.

Thanks!

raycow 05-31-2010 02:40 PM

Re: New wiring, new temp switch, new gauge, still not working
 
Disconnect the lead from the sending unit. Turn on the ignition switch and check for voltage (to ground) at the connector. If you have voltage (a DMM like yours will probably show close to battery voltage), check the resistance of the sender to ground (with the lead still disconnected). I don't know the actual ohms, but you don't want it to show open or shorted.

If no voltage on the lead, check for voltage (to ground) on both terminals of the dash gauge. This should tell you where the problem is.

If you have a thermostat in the engine, five minutes of idling should be enough to get a reading on the gauge.

Ray


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