Power window/lock conversion
 

My truck (square body) is not set up for power doors so my question would be if I could just plug in a power window and lock harness to the fuse block under the dash along with the power doors?

Re: Power window/lock conversion
 

I would check out the sellers of aftermarket power window setups. Some are essentially the stock lock (switches, bezels, etc.). You will have to cut holes in your door panels to accommodate the switches. Buying all the new pieces for GM stock will be cost prohibitive, and probably impossible. You can get the whole set up used (including door panels) but I would not trust the reliability if you go that route. You also have to cut holes in your existing door and door pillar for the harness to run through, and install a flexible wire bellows style conduit between the door and pillar. You may or may not have to install a separate relay.
Or, aftermarket car alarm installers often install door locks and windows - but usually not a stock look. Aftermarket door lock actuators, regulators, motors, etc. are often not of OEM quality, but OEM quality is getting worse every day, IMHO.
If I were you, I would stick with manual windows and locks - both add likely repair issues down the road, and associated electrical problems are sometimes hard to fix - just check some of the posts on this issue here. On the other hand, I really like the remote keyless entry on my 83 C20 (aftermarket, of course) which would not be possible without power door locks(factory, in my truck.)
For reference, if you buy a new GM work truck and special order power windows and door locks, the cost is about $900-$1000, add $450 for remote keyless entry - but those will be guaranteed for 3 years.

Re: Power window/lock conversion
 

Tagging along...
I have a '79 K-5 that I'd like to convert to power. I can find plenty of power doors, but I haven't found anyone who did the conversion so I could pick their brain about the harness.

Re: Power window/lock conversion
 

I recently bought 91 suburban doors for my 87 which is a base model no nothing not even a/c...the doors are all power locks and windows even mirrors, I installed doors, cut holes in my pillars on the door jam there's already a rubber groment on the inside,bolted doors up ran harness thru pillars,figured out the wiring by removing the door panal and looking at the colors, It's not rocket science...ran new wire for power and grounds,now have power everything and love it.....and only paid 150.00 for both doors from a dude on craigslist in my area....If it were me May the power be with you......:metal:

Re: Power window/lock conversion
 

If your truck has the blade type fuse block the factory power window and lock harness will plug right in, if not all you need is to splice 2 hot wires and a ground.
There is a all time hot for the power locks, and a switched hot for the windows, plus a ground. The power window and lock harness unplugs from the doors just above the kick panels and the lock relay is screwed to the steering column support under the dash.
You will need to drill holes in your a-pillar for the wires to pass through ( much easier with the doors off). The last one I drilled had factory indentions where you needed to drill.
It's a pretty simple swap, the hardest parts is un-mounting and re-mounting the lock relay.
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Re: Power window/lock conversion
 

thank you. I dont know if I explained myself right or if i even mentioned it but i have all the doors which I am going to just replace. They are power doors from a suburban so the only thing I would need is the harness at least thats what im guessing.

oh and the truck im swapping doors to power is a crew cab dually not sure if that makes a difference

Re: Power window/lock conversion
 

I put power doors on my crew from a '89 Burb.
Its the same deal, you just need the door harness it is like the regular cab but with extra wires for the rear doors. Same 3 wires to hook them up and same place for the lock relay also. If you need any specific help or have any questions I'll be glad to help.
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Re: Power window/lock conversion
 

Somewhere (LMC?) I've seen a set of contacts that mount in the door jamb so that you don't actually have to run wires into the door. Of course, they wouldn't work if the door is open....

Re: Power window/lock conversion
 

Street rods have the no hole drill contacts - cleaner look - just a strip of raised contacts on the pillar which line up with the contacts on the door - but more $$$.

Re: Power window/lock conversion
 

Ok so it takes one constant hot, switched hot and a ground. I didnt take a picture of it but the fuse box has a slot for power windows but its empty. There's also slots on top of the panel which im guessing is for each window because there's four of them and each one has a different color to it.

Re: Power window/lock conversion
 

I snagged a harness from a later model Blazer at the local Pick&Pull. Carefully removed the plugs and wires from the doors along with the rubber boots. As I remember, the harness went into the cab/jamb to a connector. The harness went from there to the firewall and fuse panel. Someone had already removed the dash pad, cluster, glove box etc, making the harness more accessible.

I have everything installed in my truck and taped off the connectors in the doors as I'm still using manual lock and windows. I have all the other parts, window regulators, lock solenoids, switches etc. One of these days I'll buy a pair of new window motors and a pair of these switches.

Re: Power window/lock conversion
 

that power window slot should be for a fuse or a circuit breaker, I can't remember. I'll look tonight.
the color coded plug-in spots are for certain things. The plugs on the window and lock harness are made so they will only plug in to their specific spot. I can get pics of the plugs if that will help

Re: Power window/lock conversion
 

I had thought about those switches too, then realized you still have to reach all the way across the truck to operate the passenger window.